Wine & Spirits - April 2012 - (Page 103)

Z W E I G E LT 180695 | Leth $ 2008 Wagram Gigama Reserve Blauer Zweigelt Produced only in exceptional vintages and aged two years in barriques, this is huge wine. Somehow, however, it comes off as fresh, the juicy, brambly fruit standing up to the considerable oak with its verve and acidity. Granite and earth notes tip it firmly toward a savory balance. Give it a few years to integrate, and have some thick-cut steaks on hand. Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY 180720 YEAR’S BEST WHITE BURGUNDY Our blind panels tasted 143 new-release white Burgundies over the past 12 months. Our critic for Burgundy wines, Joshua Greene, rated 37 as exceptional (90+) and 14 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at | Forstreiter $ AUXE Y DURESSES 180945 2009 Niederösterreich Zvy-gelt Zweigelt (Best Buy) The red companion to Forstreiter’s Grooner, this is simple, spicy zweigelt done well. Fermented in stainless steel and held in a combination of stainless tanks and older oak barrels, it’s pure fruit, tart and juicy, with lots of mouthwatering spice and herbal nuances. Drink now, with just about anything. Monika Caha Selections/Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY 180853 | Domaine Debray $ 2010 Auxey-Duresses (Best Buy) This is bright with delicate floral scents of lees and the light, peppery bite of olive oil fresh from the press. That acidity balances the juiciness of the wine, lasting as a simple pleasure. For a grilled whole fish. Bourgeois Family Selections, Asheville, NC | Umathum BÂTARD MONTRACHET 180462 $ 2009 Burgenland Classic Zweigelt Like many biodynamically grown wines, this needs time in the glass—or a day in a decanter—to show its best. It’s a celebration of everything zweigelt: the violently purple fruit, a sort of sweet-sour berry flavor that doesn’t exist anywhere else; the combination of bright, refreshing acidity and dark, intense flavor. An herbal spice and violet aroma contribute impressive elegance as well. Serve with a roasted veal loin., Los Angeles, CA 180822 | Domaine Leflaive $ | Iby $ 2010 Burgenland Classic Zweigelt (Best Buy) As bright in flavor as it is in purple hue, this is deliciously straightforward. It tastes like fresh-pressed dark, tart berries and freshcrushed herbs. A wild Burgenland red for sausages. Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY 180815 | Andau 2009 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Jim Mullen, the GM at New Brunswick’s The Frog and the Peach, recalled the Maxell speaker advertisement with music blowing a listener back in his chair, his hair blown back by the volume turned up to 10. “Incredibly opulent,” he said, comparing this to Led Zeppelin and the Chevalier in the next glass to John Coltraine (both later revealed as Domaine Leflaive). Bâtard responds to the richness of 2009 with an amplification of a terroir that is typically bold and rich. This golden wine has the floral buzz of a beehive, layering lime blossom over umami limestone, savory pear and peach in a succulent flavor that lasts for minutes. Check on this ten years from the vintage; it has the energy to develop in the cellar for years after. Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA namics in the early 1990s, their success leading them to convert the entire domaine in 1997. The root systems of those ancient vines focus this wine more on its soil character than its grand cru siblings, with their sunnier dispositions. This leads you on with floral scents of honeycomb and vanilla, then sucks you down through layer upon layer of earth, brightness and darkness in flashes of delicacy and brooding power. While the Bâtard is blunt in its richness, this is energized in its terroir expression, as if to share the insistence of Madame Leflaive herself that these 50-year-old vines will persevere. Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA CHABLIS 178365 | Pascal Bouchard $ 2009 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains A simple chardonnay on overdrive, what this wine lacks in complexity it makes up in sheer energy, its racy limestone-infused flavor tightly focused on apple and pear. Young and undeveloped, this should broaden its flavor profile with age. Frank-Lin International, San Jose, CA 180980 | Domaine L. Chatelain $ $ 2009 Burgenland Zweigelt (Best Buy) From the vineyards around Andau—said to be the warmest, sunniest place in the country—this is juicy and fresh with blueberry and cranberry flavor spiced with oak. Dark and tart, it’s weighted for easy drinking. Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY 180819 BIENV E NUES BÂTARD MONTRACHET 180461 | Domaine Leflaive 2010 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume (Best Buy) This is clean and pale at first, showing little flavor development. It lengthens out with air toward high notes of chalk and freshly churned butter, umami notes of butterbeans and a sharp edge of acidity. Give this two or three years in bottle, then serve with cracked crab. Saranty Imports, Harrison, NY 180636 $ | Christian Moreau Père et Fils | Hermann Moser $ 2010 Austria Zwiegelt (Best Buy) This is light and simple, with bright, juicy red fruit and a smooth, light texture. Boutique Wine Collection, Philadelphia, PA I 2009 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Tucked into the lower, northern corner of Bâtard, Bienvenues holds some of Domaine Leflaive’s oldest vines, 2.84 acres planted in 1958 and ’59. It was in an effort to sustain those vines that Anne-Claude Leflaive and Pierre Morey turned to biody- $ 2010 Chablis (Best Buy) Youthfully green, this has a pale wheat sheaf flavor and lasting minerality. It’s a simple Chablis for fat oysters or Nantucket Bay scallops. Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2012

Wine & Spirits - April 2012
Editor's Note
Fined & Filtered: Patrick Comiskey on pairing wine with molecular gastronomy
Extreme Values
Spirits: Lou Bustamante on cocktail bitters
Wine Superheros
Port without Serra
The Class of ’72
Brightliners in the Deep End
The Restoration of Austria’s Noble Red
New & Notable New York City Restaurants
23rd Annual Restaurant Poll
Tastings Overview
American Pinot Noir
Austrian Wines
White Burgundy
Loire Wines
Portugal Reds
Tuscan Wines
American Wines
Imported Wines
Lost Commandments Howard G. Goldberg rewrites Exodus

Wine & Spirits - April 2012