Wine & Spirits - August 2012 - (Page 59)

YEAR’S BEST NORTHEAST ITALY Our blind panels tasted 434 new-release northeast Italy wines over the past 12 months. Joshua Greene rated 51 as exceptional (90+) and 43 as Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at A LT O A D I GE WHITE CHARDONNAY 183021 | Andriano $ 2011 Alto Adige Somereto Chardonnay (Best Buy) Simple and grapey at first, this wine develops a floral note of mountain gentian with time in the glass. It manages to be both creamy-soft and refreshing, a gentle white to serve with roast fish. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, NY 183280 and orange pith, the restrained floral notes of gentian and wildflower honey. It’s cool and firm, following a tight structure while the flavors develop breadth and substantial depth. This wine will age for a decade or more; it’s also delicious decanted now for hearty dishes like crauti (cabbage) with speck. Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY 183380 wine with scents of apple blossoms and a crisp, acidic edge that brings parsley to mind. It’s vibrant in the finish, with a citrus note to match any grilled fish. Massanois Imports, Washington, DC 183090 | J. Hofstätter $ | Nals Margreid $ | Tramin $ 2011 Alto Adige Chardonnay (Best Buy) A pale and creamy white, parallel to a Mâconnais wine, this has cool, earthy mineral tones and savory flavors of wheat. It’s satisfying and brisk, a wine to chill for summer aperitifs. Winebow, NY 183613 2009 Alto Adige Baron Salvadori Gewürztraminer This golden wine has a restrained floral note, relatively closed off until the end, when the zest and pith of an orange opens up into a bold stroke of flavor. It’s round and supple, a white to chill for pork schnitzel with spaetzle. Massanois Imports, Washington, DC 2010 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco (Best Buy) Fragrant with scents of pale wheat, like a fresh draft of hefeweizen, this has a creamy softness in the middle, cut by spicy acidity in the end. For smoked salmon crostini. Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY SAUVIGNON BLANC 183361 | Abbazia di Novacella $ MULLER THURGAU 183263 | Bollini | Girlan $ $ 2010 Trentino Barricato 40 Chardonnay (Best Buy) Round flavors of honeydew melon and lemon pith broaden through this wine, accented by floral notes of jasmine and magnolia. It’s fresh and substantial, a chardonnay to pour with poached salmon. Kobrand, Purchase, NY 2011 Alto Adige Müller-Thurgau (Best Buy) With its clean, melon-like fruit and honeyed Mandarin orange spice, this is a gentle and mouthwatering white to serve as an aperitif. Montcalm Wine Importers, NY 2010 Alto Adige Sauvignon (Best Buy) Elemental sauvignon, this contrasts a pointedly grassy scent with juicy kumquat and spice notes. The interaction of richness and acidity is mouthwatering, the impression of minerality in the finish setting up a match with Cantonese whole fish steamed with ginger and scallion. Vias Imports, NY; Vintage Epicure/USA Wine West, NY 182985 PINOT BIANCO 182592 | Terlano $ | Girlan $ GEWURZTRAMINER 2010 Alto Adige Plattenriegel Pinot Bianco This is a substantial pinot bianco with clean scents of litchi and loquat that bristle against the leesy, cream-of-wheat whiteness of flavor. It finishes with hints of honey and lavender, structured enough to serve with veal. Montcalm Wine Importers, NY 183379 2009 Alto Adige Quarz Sauvignon Delicate floral scents of wildflower honey and fresh cream fill this generous, full-textured white. Serve it with veal schnitzel and potatoes tossed with chervil and chives. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, NY 183385 | St. Pauls $ | St. Pauls $ 183085 | J. Hofstätter $ 2010 Alto Adige Kolbenhof Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof captures a pure taste of Tramin, a south- and east-facing hillside above the Adige. Forget the cloying caricature gewürz can take on beyond its home turf. This is the reality of gewürz Traminer, a bright white with the glint of the sun off snow-capped mountains, the tang of lemon 2009 Alto Adige Passion Riserva Pinot Bianco A firm and succulent white, this is sharply focused on its green grape flavors, as if you could taste the sun captured in the chlorophyll stored in a juicy fresh grape. Its pale wheat-scented finish lasts. For fish roasted in a nut crust. St. Pauls USA, Pleasantville, NY 183717 2011 Alto Adige Sauvignon (Best Buy) Light green tea and rosewater scents give this sauvignon a gentleness, as cool as mountain spring water. A simple, slightly sweet white for trout. St. Pauls USA, Pleasantville, NY WHITE BLEND 182496 | Kellerei Kaltern $ | Nals Margreid $ 2011 Alto Adige Penon Pinot Bianco (Best Buy) Freshness infuses this simple, juicy 2011 Alto Adige Alto Bianco (Best Buy) Soft and round, this simple, grapey white is ready to chill for Virginia baked ham. Omniwines Distributing Co., Flushing, NY W I N E & S P I R I T S A U G U S T 2 0 1 2 59

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2012

Wine & Spirits - August 2012
Editor’s Note
Fined & Filtered: Lou Bustamante on cocktails aged in cask and bottle
Spirits: Tonic + Gin Reviewed by Lou Bustamante
North American Riesling
Tapas in the Capital of Cava
Prosecco + Prosciutto
Cirò & La Cucina Calabrese
Summer on the Road in Sonoma
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Summer Sparklers
US Riesling
Rías Baixas/Vinho Verde
Greek Wines
Northeast Italian Wines
American New Releases
Imported New Releases
Joshua Greene on moscato’s sweet disruptions

Wine & Spirits - August 2012