Wine & Spirits - August 2012 - (Page 64)

AMERICAN NEW RELEASES Our blind panels tasted 495 new-release American wines for this issue. Our critics rated 43 as exceptional (90+) and 35 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews wines from California; Patrick J. Comiskey reviews wines from Missouri, New York, Oregon and Washington. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at C ALI FO RN I A W HITE CHARDONNAY 417603 PINOT GRIS | Ridge $ 2010 Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Monte Bello Vineyard Chardonnay (Best Buy) Scents of lemon, vanilla and salt air rush through this young chardonnay, a cool mountain wine with a clear impression of the California coast. It glistens with white cherry flavors, herbal scents of forest underbrush and a gentle, honeyed aftertaste. Already showing incipient complexity, this will gain depth and breadth over the next several years. (3,250 cases) Ridge Vineyards, Healdsburg, CA 417692 417444 | Cambria $ 417669 2010 Santa Maria Valley Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Best Buy) A smooth and supple vintage of Katherine’s, this surrounds its honeyed flavors in a soft and pleasing texture. Easy to drink, particularly with Dungeness crab. Cambria Winery & Vineyard, Santa Maria, CA | Handley $ | Londer $ GEWURZTRAMINER 2010 Anderson Valley Ferrington Vineyards Chardonnay (Best Buy) A whitefruited chardonnay, focused on Rainier cherries, jasmine and toasted lees, this has a coastal cool running through it. It’s a fresh white to chill for crab season. (245 cases) Londer Vineyards, Sebastopol, CA 418015 2011 Anderson Valley Helluva Vineyard Pinot Gris (Best Buy) Clean, bright and juicy, this wine has a fresh, floral scent that carries straight through to the finish. It has a coastal salt air tang to balance a hint of sweetness. To chill for aperitifs, or serve with crab. (515 cases) Handley Cellars, Philo, CA 417684 | Kenwood $ 2011 Russian River Valley Pinot Gris (Best Buy) Floral scents and lemon curd flavors make this a bright pinot gris to serve with roast cod. (1,470 cases) Kenwood Vineyards, Kenwood, CA | Lynmar $ 417774 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010 Russian River Valley La Sereinité Chardonnay A round, buttery chardonnay, this is balanced in an oaky style. It shows restraint in its scents of orange citrus and the honeyed sweetness of oak. A simple, rich white to serve with blanquette de veau. (218 cases) Lynmar Estate, Sebastopol, CA 417697 | Breggo $ | Wind Gap $ 2009 Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay Scents of walnuts and wheat focus this wine more toward nuts and grain than fruit. It’s firmly structured by oak (the wine spent 18 months in neutral French oak), the flavors persistent if somewhat muted. Cellar this for a year or two to let the fruit evolve. (240 cases) Pax Mahle Wines, Forestville, CA 64 W I N E & S P I R I T S A U G U S T 2 0 1 2 2010 Anderson Valley Ferrington Vineyard Gewurztraminer To produce this wine, Ryan Hodgins presses whole clusters directly into tank, allows the wine to settle, then ferments two thirds of it in neutral French oak barrels, the rest in stainless steel. It does not go through malolactic, holding the tension and liveliness of its acidity and a sense of precision in its texture. A gewurz with finesse and politesse, this is a citrus and lily-scented white with the structure to match choucroute. (648 cases) Breggo Cellars, Boonville, CA 417986 | Schug $ 2011 Sonoma Coast Sauvignon Blanc (Best Buy) As green as grass and as fleshy as a green fig, this is a spicy white for sushi or crudo. (2,385 cases) Schug Carneros Estate Winery, Sonoma, CA,%20Sonoma%20Coast

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2012

Wine & Spirits - August 2012
Editor’s Note
Fined & Filtered: Lou Bustamante on cocktails aged in cask and bottle
Spirits: Tonic + Gin Reviewed by Lou Bustamante
North American Riesling
Tapas in the Capital of Cava
Prosecco + Prosciutto
Cirò & La Cucina Calabrese
Summer on the Road in Sonoma
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Summer Sparklers
US Riesling
Rías Baixas/Vinho Verde
Greek Wines
Northeast Italian Wines
American New Releases
Imported New Releases
Joshua Greene on moscato’s sweet disruptions

Wine & Spirits - August 2012