Wine & Spirits - December 2012 - (Page 40)

Napa Vintage Shootout: 1997 and 1998 by Luke Sykora The Tasters: Josiah Baldivino, sommelier, Michael Mina Bobby Conroy, sommelier, Benu Yoon Ha, sommelier, Benu Michael Ireland, restaurant consultant James Johnson, collector and proprietor, James Johnson Vineyard David Lynch, proprietor, St. Vincent The Cabernets: 1997 & ’98 Corison Napa Valley 1997 Robert Mondavi To Kalon & ’98 Reserve 1997 & ’98 Beringer Private Reserve 1997 & ’98 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve 1997 & ’98 Clos Du Val Reserve 1997 & ’98 Duckhorn Napa Valley Estate 1997 & ’98 Shafer Hillside Select 1997 & ’98 von Strasser Diamond Mountain Rarely have two Napa vintages been as diametrically opposed as 2011 and 2012: 2012 was near perfect from a grower’s perspective, producing an abundant, slow-ripening crop. The 2011 vintage, on the other hand, was downright cold, with a series of October rainstorms further hampering and pushing back harvest. Yields were low, and growers struggled mightily to get their cabernet ripe. Given the recent vintage ﬂuctuation in Napa, we felt it would be an opportune time to check in on two other vintages that are considered polar opposites: 1997 and 1998, which have now reached ma- turity. On October 16, we sat down with several sommeliers and a collector at St. Vincent in San Francisco to taste through a series of 1997 and 1998 Napa cabernets. On paper, the outcome was all but assured before we even tasted the wines. A warm and uneventful growing season, 1997 saw early budbreak and an early, abundant harvest—resulting in ripe, opulent wines that were instantly lauded by many prominent critics. But while sommeliers continue to sell 1997s at astronomical prices, they haven’t exactly fallen in love with the vintage. “The ’97s have left me with nothing but disappointment,” commented Benu’s Bobby Conroy. “The wines are volatile, out of balance, overripe, over-oaked and overall a giant and expensive let down.” On the other hand, the sommeliers we invited have been surprised by the rising fortunes of the initially unloved 1998s. Yes, the vintage may have been comparatively hellish for growers—rains during ﬂowering led to severely uneven fruit set, a searing heatspike in mid-July further damaged the crop, the rest of the summer was cool and October rains made for a challenging harvest. But Michael Mina sommelier Josiah Baldivino noted that the cool weather also gave “a bit of Bordeaux ﬂair to the wines, which I personally think is better for aging purposes.” Consultant and former 40 W I N E & S P I R I T S D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2012

Wine & Spirits - December 2012
Editor's Note
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Happenings
Books
Spirits
The Light in Douro
Sushi & German Riesling
Tokaji Myths
Napa vs Bordeaux: A Seismic Shift
A Tale of Two Vintages
Dinner with Barolo
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
US Cabernet Sauvignon
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
Alsace
American New Releases
International New Releases
Faces at the W&S Top 100

Wine & Spirits - December 2012