Wine & Spirits - December 2012 - (Page 90)

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES Our blind panels tasted 496 new-release imported wines for this issue. Our critics rated 57 as exceptional (90+) and 43 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews wines from Italy and Portugal; Tara Q. Thomas reviews wines from Canada, Germany and Hungary. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. C AN A DA W H I TE CHARDONNAY 109394 CANA DA RED CABERNET FRANC $ CANADA DESSERT 109449 | Konzelmann $ / ml | Tawse 2010 Vinemount Ridge Quarry Road Vineyard Chardonnay Fromnineacresof clayandlimestoneontheNiagaraEscarpment, this biodynamically grown wine is cool and succulent despite the warm vintage,ablendofleesyrichnessandﬁrmpear fruit.Thetextureislikelightcashmere,the acidity keeping it lifted and long. Give it someairandabacon-wrappedtrout,orlose abottleinthecellarforanotherfewyears; it’s bound to gain in complexity. Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT 109427 109409 | Chateau des Charmes $ | Vineland $ 2010 Niagara Escarpment Unoaked Chardonnay (Best Buy) The very warm vintagemadeforasurprisinglyrichchard onnay, with creamy apple and cherimoya ﬂavor.Lemon-pithyaciditygivesitcutand precision,abalancethatleavesanimpression of elegance and restraint. Fruit of the Vine, Long Island City, NY 2009 Niagara-on-the-Lake Cabernet Franc (Best Buy) If you like cru Beaujolais, buy thisbythecase.Ithasasimilarcontrastof juicy fruit, earthy minerality and bright, briskacidity,onlyheretheﬂavorsarevery franc:conifers,blackcurrants,coolblueberriesandblackpepper.It’sseamlessandfragrant(“Icouldjustinhalethis, saidCarson ” Demmond, our Francophile associate editor),readyforaducklegoratangycrottin. Specialty Cellars, Santa Fe Springs, CA 2010 Niagara Peninsula Icewine Vidal German-bornHerbertKonzelmannfound edhiswineryin1988,onlandfrontingLake OntarioandbackedbytheNiagaraEscarpment.Inthewarmthof2010,thissheltered space gave a vidal as thick and smooth as custard,withpineapple,peachandorange notesrisingoutoftherichness.Theacidity keeps it vibrant, carrying a slightly spicy notethatrecallsthetangofsaltedcaramels. Specialty Cellars, Santa Fe Springs, CA 109439 | Pillitteri Estates $ / ml 2011 Niagara-on-the-Lake Icewine Vidal Thislookslightandbright,withitsgreentintedhue,butit’sasrichandsumptuousas limecurd.Fromoutofthedensesweetness comesnotesofgreenteaandlemonbalm, uncannilydelicatenotesfromahedonistic bombshell.Wine Emporium, Brooklyn, NY 109433 | Peller Estates $ PINOT NOIR 109419 RIESLING 109393 | Coyote’s Run $ | Tawse $ 2010 Niagara Peninsula Riesling (Best Buy) Fromablendofvineyards,thisisabig, bustyriesling.Thesweetfruitiscountered with sharp acidity and notes of nuts and petrol,acontrastthatwillrequiresomeﬁnesseatthetable.Checkitoutwithgrilled prawnslacedwithchileandlemongrass,or somethingsimilarlysweetandspicy.Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT 109446 2010 Four Mile Creek Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir (Best Buy) Fromavineyardnotableforthepresenceofiron-richTrafalgar clayloam,thisisawild,spicypinotnoir,fragrantwithrosarugosa,blackraspberryand a rooty spice like ginseng. It feels ripe but notpushed,allofapiece,readyforarare steakslicedthin.Not imported. 109387 2010 Niagara Peninsula Icewine Oak Aged Vidal Opulentinitsdeepgoldencast andsweetorangeﬂavors,thisissointenseit almosttasteslikeacondiment.Butthenthe acidity comes in, gingery and lifted, and clearsitoﬀthepalate,soyou’rereadyforanothertaste.Itwouldbedeliciouswithwarm gingerbread.Not imported. GERMANY WHITE MUSKATELLER 184581 | Norman Hardie $ | Grafen Neipperg $ | Konzelmann $ 2010 Niagara Peninsula Riesling (Best Buy) Thisislight,limeyandclean,withjust enough sweetness to make it friendly but notoverbearing.Specialty Cellars, Santa Fe Springs, CA 2008 Prince Edward County Unﬁltered Pinot Noir Made by a sommelier-turnedwinemaker, this is pinot for the table, its darkcherryandlicoriceﬂavorsshotthrough withmouthwateringacidity.Itfeelsfulland completewithoutbeingshowy;it’sjustpure, tastyfruitwithalittleanimaledge,readyto takeonanythingfromagrilledsalmonsteak tovenison.Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT 2011 Württemberg Neipperger Schlossberg Muskateller Spätlese Grownonthe steep, terraced slopes just under the 15thcenturyNeippergcastle,thisisuncannilyelegantmuskateller.Here,thevariety’ssweet honeydewﬂavorsandwhitelilyaromasadd prettyﬁllipstoacoreofclear,stonyﬂavor. Themineralityleavesasalty-sweetﬂavoron the lips. For fried ﬁsh, Asian-style, topped withginger,garlicandscallions.Valckenberg Int’l., Tulsa, OK 90 W I N E & S P I R I T S D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 2 http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.chateaudescharmes.com/our-wines/2009-cabernet-franc-estate-bottled

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2012

Wine & Spirits - December 2012
Editor's Note
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Happenings
Books
Spirits
The Light in Douro
Sushi & German Riesling
Tokaji Myths
Napa vs Bordeaux: A Seismic Shift
A Tale of Two Vintages
Dinner with Barolo
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
US Cabernet Sauvignon
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
Alsace
American New Releases
International New Releases
Faces at the W&S Top 100

Wine & Spirits - December 2012