Wine & Spirits - April 2013 - (Page 18)

field notes The Funky Bits By Alice Feiring Comté is one of the four respected cheeses that come from the Franche-Comté region, also home to the Jura, an appellation never far from my wine-drinking wishes. The cheese can be nutty, fruity, with brilliant acidity and a fabulous affinity for the local oxidized white wines. It is also the best melter in potato dishes and one of the contraband cheeses I suitcase back to the States after a visit to Marie-Anne Cantin’s wonderful Parisian fromagerie in the 7th. Comté is released after four months but as Cantin taught me, it sings best between 18 and 24. While there are other cheeses made in the same way—Gruyère and Emmenthal—to me there’s no doubt that Comté has that extra je ne sais quoi. 18 WINE & SPIRITS APRIL 2013 The tasting table at W&S held four very beautiful slabs of the cheese, in varying shades of hay, chunked out on a rustic board. They were 15 or 16 months of age, each from a different fruitière, as the locals call their cheese-making facilities. They were all made from the milk of the Montbéliarde cow. In accordance with Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) laws, they chomped on grass no more than 15 miles from the fruitière before being shipped off for their affinage, the cheese equivalent of élevage. We set to our mousing. The cheeses were all distinct, so much so it was actually difficult to believe they were the same age. The first was earthy and creamy but a little flat. Number Two was the most fragrant, Photos by Mary Brown When invited to a Comté tasting at the Wine & Spirits office on a winter Wednesday morning, I expected some terrific cheese. I expected to examine spring versus summer milk, to hear about the cows grazing and how it was a terroir-driven cheese. I didn’t expect to geek out on the effect that microflora has on cow teats and how that might affect the relationship of terroir and cheese.

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2013

Wine & Spirits - April 2013
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered The Digital List
Cognac: The New Wave
The Funky Bits: Alice Feiring on terroir expression in Comté
Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru
Pinot Noir’s Nerve Center
Where Tuscany Meets Liguria
Insider Chianti
Where to Eat & Drink in New York
24th Annual Restaurant Poll
Introduction
US Pinot Noir
Austria
Portugul Reds
White Burgundy
Loire
Tuscan Reds
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Extreme Values

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