Wine & Spirits - August 2013 - (Page 51)

our blind panels tasted 104 new-release pinot gris from the United States over the past 12 months. our critics rated 11 as exceptional (90+) and 7 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews California wines; Patrick J. Comiskey reviews oregon wines. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. 421553 $25 2011 Anderson Valley Pinot Gris ^ This gris has the cool richness of Anderson Valley, fattened with flavors of fresh pear and pear liqueur. Juiciness and toastiness balance and focus it on Dungeness crab. (1,326 cases) § Breggo Cellars, Boonville, CA 422247 88 | Hendry $18 2011 Napa Valley Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ This wine’s ripeness presents itself as completely clean, its fat almond and fresh apple flavors lasting in their subtle, mild way. Its fruit skin notes bring candle wax and honey to mind while the finish is refreshing. For a summer aperitif. (498 cases) § Hendry Ranch, Oakville, CA 422022 418676 93 | Chehalem $19 93 | Solena $20 2011 Willamette Valley Three Vineyard Pinot Gris ^ Leading with scents of yeast, green apple and lemon zest, this wine’s richness is complemented by that lemony flavor, which builds into the middle palate, the finish mouthwatering, racy and clean. (W&S 10/12; 2,460 cases) § Chehalem, Newberg, OR 419855 2011 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ^ Salty and savory, with a floral scent, this has a freshness that keeps the wine on point. With its lemony, high-toned flavors and drive, it feels cool and poised, an elegant gris for boudin blanc and roasted potatoes. (W&S 2/13) § Solena, Carlton, OR 422082 92 | elk Cove $19 91 | Cooper Mountain o reg o n $15 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ^ Mouthwatering and brisk, this succulent gris has the scent of apple blossoms, its flavors giving the impression of a slice of crisp apple spritzed with lemon. A summer refresher, or a good pairing with petrale sole. § Elk Cove Vineyards, Gaston, OR 420574 2011 Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ A bright, fresh gris with lush pear scents and a wheaty, leesy top note, this feels generous and inviting. Its flavors are lean and angular, with invigorating drive and a sour lees note to the finish that lends complexity and length. For white sausages. (W&S 4/13; 3,000 cases) § Cooper Mountain Vineyards, Beaverton, OR 419688 91 | erath $24 $21 $17 2012 Willamette Valley Rudolfo Vineyard Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ Dai Crisp has drawn from this well-established vineyard just south of the Eola Hills since 2001, and his latest release has an ease to its leesy marzipan scents and broad contours. It has a generous air, before the grape-skin grip draws the wine toward a harmonious finish. For salad niçoise. (1,022 cases) § Lumos Wine Co., McMinnville, OR 2011 Willamette Valley Treehouse Pinot Gris ^ Dry and austere with a savory, driedpear scent, this brisk gris turns lemony, with a citrus-pith austerity that suggests it’s still growing into itself. Give it time and then serve with brook trout. (W&S 4/13; 600 cases) § Vista Hills Vineyard & Winery, Dayton, OR 420652 91 | Vista Hills 2012 Eola-Amity Hills Crawford-Beck Vineyard Pinot Gris ^ Tense and brisk despite a nougaty breadth to its flavors, this wine’s acids propel it in a simple yet satisfying way. It’s the sort of white to chill for a warm, long August afternoon in the Pacific Northwest. (215 cases) § Owen Roe Winery, St. Paul, OR 422075 89 | acrobat $12 2012 Oregon Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ Scents of passion fruit and lemon give way to focused citrus fruit flavors. The mineral texture leans into the citrus notes and then edges away, for a pleasingly elusive finish. § King Estate Winery, Eugene, OR $14 2011 Oregon Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ Scents of baked biscuits and golden delicious apples give way to a brisk, lively palate marked by juicy citrus accents of Meyer lemon. This gris is a simple pleasure, a vibrant, energetic aperitif or a white to serve with pan-roasted fish. (W&S 2/13) § Erath Vineyards, Dundee, OR 420825 92 | lumos 90 | lange 2011 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ^ This is a savory gris, with lees scents that bring baking bread to mind. It has a lovely freshness—a mineral grip and citrusy finish—that lasts for minutes. (W&S 4/13) § Adelsheim Vineyard, Newberg, OR 418468 2011 Willamette Valley Reserve Pinot Gris ^ This leesy white pulls off a mélange of lemon and apple scents, the interchange keeping its juicy flavors lean and fresh. Ideal for an aperitif, or with chicken sausages. (W&S 10/12; 854 cases) § Lange Winery, Dundee, OR 421689 Ca li fo rn i a 91 | Breggo $19 90 | owen roe Year’s Best Pinot Gris 90 | adelsheim $18 421888 88 | a to Z $13 88 | Sweet Cheeks $16 2012 Oregon Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ As crisp as the sea air in an Oregon spring, this lemony white has a mineral tang to its flavors that fairly demands a plate of clams and garlic. § A to Z Wineworks, Newberg, OR 422151 2011 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris (Best Buy) ^ This brisk, lemony white is terse and mineral. The spritziness propels it toward grilled oysters. (1,700 cases) § Sweet Cheeks Winery, Eugene, OR n WINE & SPIRITS AUGUST 2013 51 http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.elkcove.com http://www.kingestate.com http://www.atozwineworks.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2013

Wine & Spirits - August 2013
Editor's Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Spirits: Rum & Ginger Beer
Athens Wine Bars
The New Naoussa
California's Heritage Whites
Insider's Guide to Sonoma
Local Snacks, Local Bubbles
Extreme Values
Introduction
Summer Sparklers
US Pinot Gris
Alto Adige/Friuli
Vinho Verde/Albariño
US Riesling
Rosés
Greece
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Last Sip

Wine & Spirits - August 2013