Wine & Spirits - August 2013 - (Page 70)

US NEW RELEASES our blind panels tasted 509 new-release US wines for this issue. our critics rated 61 as exceptional (90+) and 32 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews northern California wines; Luke Sykora reviews California Central Coast wines; Patrick J. Comiskey reviews oregon and Washington wines. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. 88 | Gloria ferrer Ca li fo rn i a W hit e Chardonnay 421874 92 | two Sisters $55 2010 Sta. Rita Hills Courtney’s Vineyard Chardonnay ^ Earthen and powerful, this doesn’t fully show itself until it takes on some air. If you’re going to drink it soon, decant it. Like the Lincourt chardonnay below, this comes from the Foley Family stable, in this case from the top-performing blocks of Bill Foley’s chardonnay vineyard at Rancho Las Hermanas. It’s raised exclusively in new oak barrels, but the fruit has enough power to hold the oak in place, feeling rich and poised in its pineapple and sea salt pungency. It would stand up well to sea bass in a brown butter sauce. (1,531 cases) § Two Sisters, Los Olivos, CA 421623 91 | Sonoma-Cutrer $22 2011 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ This wine packs a lot of luxury for the price, a round, supple chardonnay with flavors of apple and cream. There’s also a cool feel—the earthen cool of a cave wall—that balances the wine’s richness. For grilled lobster. § Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards, Windsor, CA 421990 90 | longoria $55 2011 Sta. Rita Hills Rita’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay ^ Rita’s Crown is a relatively high-altitude site for the Sta. Rita Hills, with plenty of coastal influence. In this take on the vineyard, the coconut tones of new oak polish some of the site’s edginess, but the vineyard character comes through in the end, a laser beam of lime-like acidity that feels coastal and clean. Serve this with something meaty, like braised pork, to balance its oak and point up its fruit. (44 cases) § Richard Longoria Wines, Lompoc, CA 421549 89 | lincourt $27 2010 Sta. Rita Hills Courtney’s Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ New oak (30 percent) and lees stirring lend a cushioned texture to this chardonnay without interrupting its gentle persistence. It’s a stylish, fresh white with a nutty edge that would match sunchoke ravioli. § Lincourt Vineyards, Los Olivos, CA 421687 70 WINE & SPIRITS AUGUST 2013 $18 2010 Carneros Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ A clean white with scents of toasted grain and a touch of orange-zest volatility, this is warm in the finish. Chill it for roast pork. § Gloria Ferrer Vineyards, Sonoma, CA trouSSeau griS Chenin BlanC 421945 91 | Clarksburg Wine Co. $16 2011 Clarksburg Chenin Blanc (Best Buy) ^ Decant this wine to bring out chenin’s quince-like freshness: The initial earthiness turns toward fruit that lasts. A pretty white to serve with cold roast chicken and spring peas. (514 cases) § Clarksburg Wine Co., Clarksburg, CA Sauvignon BlanC 421825 93 | rochioli $40 2012 Russian River Valley Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc ^ This sauvignon’s succulence and its bold depths of flavor come from old vines, some dating to 1960, planted by Joe Rochioli from a selection he gathered at an old UC Davis field station. About 40 percent of the blend comes from younger vines (2001). While the tree fruit flavors are supple, with spicy hints of lees, the structure is firm and tight, then mouthwatering and as clean as well water in the end. It has the cool feel of asparagus tips snapped from a spring garden, and will carry that freshness right through to the fall. (1,200 cases) § J. Rochioli Vineyards, Healdsburg, CA 422144 90 | Zeitgeist $24 2012 Russian River Valley Trousseau Gris ^ Mark Porembski and Jennifer Williams make this wine from the Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard in Fulton, from vines Peter Fanucchi planted in 1981. It’s an old-fashioned white. the sort that speaks of its terroir in scents of the local flora—in this case, mustard flowers, peaches and pears. Those flavors come in a modern package, soft, cushioned and clean. Try it with chorizo-stuffed squid. (350 cases) § Zeitgeist Cellars, St. Helena, CA C alifornia red CaBernet BlendS White BlendS 421580 91 | two Shepherds $26 2011 Russian River Valley Saralee’s Vineyard Pastoral Blanc ^ From a small winery founded by blogger William Allen, this is a blend of roussanne, marsanne, viogner and grenache blanc. Its scents of heather, pistachio and juicy clementine come together in a plump brightness and smooth finish. The flavors are both candied and completely dry; their lasting impression brings to mind savory pine nut cookies. Serve it cellar temperature with roast veal. (60 cases) § Allen Wine Co., Santa Rosa, CA 421669 92 | von Strasser $135 2010 Diamond Mountain District Napa Valley Reserve ^ Based on Rudy von Strasser’s signature blend of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot (40 percent each), this wine takes time to open in the glass, moving past the vanillin-influence of oak into the blueberry richness of ripe verdot. It develops from sweet chocolate notes to more detail in both the fruit and the tannins. Built to cellar http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.zeitgeistcellars.com/ http://www.vonstrasser.com/index.cfm?method=homepage.showpage

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2013

Wine & Spirits - August 2013
Editor's Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Spirits: Rum & Ginger Beer
Athens Wine Bars
The New Naoussa
California's Heritage Whites
Insider's Guide to Sonoma
Local Snacks, Local Bubbles
Extreme Values
Introduction
Summer Sparklers
US Pinot Gris
Alto Adige/Friuli
Vinho Verde/Albariño
US Riesling
Rosés
Greece
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Last Sip

Wine & Spirits - August 2013