Wine & Spirits - August 2013 - (Page 76)

US NEW RELEASES ful renderings of Rhône varietals from Red Mountain that I’ve tasted. Broad-shouldered and powerful, this wine’s dark core of plum and fig flavors are supported by ferrous tannins that gird the structure. It’s the texture that impresses: The tannins take charge, as they do in most Red Mountain wines, but have the precision and energy to drive the wine beautifully. (120 cases) § Dusted Valley, Walla Walla, WA 422016 92 | Gorman 87 | Tamarack Cellars $16 86 | Three Rivers $14 2011 Columbia Valley Firehouse Red (Best Buy) ^ A perennial favorite, this kitchen-sink blend has more suave appeal than most at its price, with Bourbon-barrel scents and cherry jam flavors. A sweet red for barbecue. (1,200 cases) § Tamarack Cellars, Walla Walla, WA 421785 2011 Columbia Valley River’s Red Wine (Best Buy) ^ This wine’s black plum flavors are supported by tannins that are just as black. The Bordelais coolness to the fruit makes it a value for late summer barbecues. (2,302 cases) § Three Rivers Winery, Walla Walla, WA Syrah 421880 $40 2011 Yakima Valley Boushey Vineyards Syrah ^ From one of the Yakima Valley’s iconic vineyards, this powerful wine leads with dark chocolate scents and seems almost as rich as cake. Its flavors are driven by plum and fig leather, the tannins leaving a peppery savor that suggests a long life ahead. Give it a little cellar time, then serve with roast lamb. (362 cases) § Syncline Wine Cellars, Lyle, WA 422017 90 | Gorman $45 2010 Red Mountain The Pixie Syrah ^ Dark and chocolaty, as dense as fruitcake, this wine’s brandied cherry scent and coffee notes make this syrah seem heavy at first—and yet its flavors are refreshing and lifted, driven by a persistent acidity. Place it with sausage and peppers. Simple and well made. (350 cases) § Gorman Winery, Woodinville, WA n 76 WINE & SPIRITS Our blind panels tasted 265 new-release imported wines for this issue. Our critics rated 27 as exceptional (90+) and 29 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews Italy and Portugal; Tara Q. Thomas reviews Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Israel, Lebanon and Turkey. Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. CR OA TIA WHITE C YPRUS RED 190384 84 | Vouni Panayia AUGUST 2013 $10 2008 Plakota (Best Buy) ^ A traditional blend of mavro and maratheftiko bolstered with a little cabernet (franc and sauvignon), this is sweetly ripe, with a bit of volatile acidity running through the figgy fruit. For barbecues this summer. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ $30 2010 Columbia Valley Zachary’s Ladder ^ Chris Gorman thinks of this blend of cabernet and syrah, with a dollop of petit verdot, as a kind of introduction to his wines. From multiple sources, this inky red leads with cedar accents from the cabernet and a dark cushion of black fruits from the syrah. The flavors are just as dark, buoyed by lively acidity and savory length. (2,465 cases) § Gorman Winery, Woodinville, WA 422119 92 | Syncline IMPORTED NEW RELEASES C YPRUS DESSERT 189699 92 | Bastianich $18 2010 Istria Adriatico Malvasia Istriana ^ Joe Bastianich and his Friuli team cross the border into Croatia for this wine, sourcing fruit from three highly respected growers: Moreno Degrassi, Gianfranco Koslovic and Ivica Matosevic. It’s finely balanced, the grape’s floral, honeyed fragrance restrained and elegant; its texture is full and satiny yet lifted by a steadfast acidity. It lasts long, the flavors clean and precise, with the combination of heft and delicacy to match seafood risotto. § Dark Star Imports, NY 90 | Loel $12 Paphos Commandaria Alasia (Best Buy) ^ One of the best bottles of Loel in memory, this has both lift and lusciousness, the salted caramel and nut flavors as airy as a mousse; the candied orange notes and cinnamon stick spice are delicate and refined. Draw out the smoky notes with some grilled peaches this summer, or save a bottle for winter, to enjoy with cheese. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ C ZEC H WHITE 190561 90 | Vinarstvi Galant CYPRUS WHITE 190341 88 | Vasilikon $11 87 | Kyperounda Winery $13 2012 Pafos Xynisteri (Best Buy) ^ This has the acidity Cypriot winemakers try hard to retain in spite of the island’s warmth, alongside a sunny red-apple fruit. It’s a good alternative to a glass of unoaked chardonnay. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ 190342 2011 Paphos Petritis Xinisteri (Best Buy) ^ Kyperounda’s vineyards are some of the highest in the world, rising up to 4,500 feet in the Troodos Mountains. In 2011, they soaked up the sun, producing a wine with ripe orange tones. The acidity keeps the fruit lively, although that briskness is countered by an overlay of oak. Give it another six months, or pair with something rich and slightly sweet, like pork chops stuffed with dried fruit. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ 190343 85 | Vouni Panayia 190383 $10 2011 Paphos Alina Xinisteri (Best Buy) ^ This is full bodied and nutty, for roast chicken on a cool summer evening. § Fantis Imports, Carlstadt, NJ $25 87 | Vinselekt Michlovsky $15 87 | Vinselekt Michlovsky $16 2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Welschriesling ^ Mikulov, where this 68-acre estate was established in 2004, is an hour’s drive north of Vienna, just across the border. The rolling hills, loamy soils and nearby lake make for rich welchriesling; the 2011 is honeyed and orange-toned, with apple blossom scents and celery seed herbals that lend delicacy while smoky earth tones add gravitas. It’s succulent and intriguing, a wine that would be fun to pair with intricately spiced dishes, like Persian rice with saffron and dried barberries. § Czech Wine Imports, Colebrook, CT 190563 2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Sauvignon Blanc (Best Buy) ^ Grown not far from the vineyards of Vinarstvi Galant (recommended above), in Rakvice, this sauvignon skews to the vividly green edge of the varietal spectrum, with lime and asparagus notes balanced by a bit of sweetness. For the cocktail hour. § Czech Wine Imports, Colebrook, CT 190562 2011 Moravia Vino z Czech Grüner Veltliner (Best Buy) ^ This is very grüner in its http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.bastianich.com/wines_adriatico_malvasia.cfm

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2013

Wine & Spirits - August 2013
Editor's Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Spirits: Rum & Ginger Beer
Athens Wine Bars
The New Naoussa
California's Heritage Whites
Insider's Guide to Sonoma
Local Snacks, Local Bubbles
Extreme Values
Introduction
Summer Sparklers
US Pinot Gris
Alto Adige/Friuli
Vinho Verde/Albariño
US Riesling
Rosés
Greece
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Last Sip

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