Wine & Spirits - October 2013 - (Page 79)

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES Our blind panels tasted 620 new-release imported wines for this issue. Our critics rated 84 as exceptional (90+) and 42 as Best Buys. Joshua Greene reviews the wines of Australia, France (Bordeaux and Burgundy) and Spain (galicia); Patricio Tapia reviews the wines of Argentina and Spain (Castilla y Léon and Valencia). Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com. A rge n t i n A WH it e on a flower day, if that helps to explain its floral, strawberry fragrance. This is bright and lush, elegant in its line of cool, zesty fruit. It’s a malbec of refinement rather than weight, with fresh tannins that will sustain it in the cellar.§ Vias Imports, NY 111596 90 | Bodega norton $11 2012 Valle Calchaquí Torrontés (Best Buy) ^ This is floral and juicy, with the soft feel of cream over peaches. The ripe flavors give a sense of sweetness, shocked by a current of acidity that runs through the middle of it, leaving a pleasantly refreshing sensation. § The Hess Collection New World Wines, Napa, CA A rge n t i n A re D Malbec 111597 93 | Achaval Ferrer $140 2010 Mendoza Finca Altamira Malbec ^ The vines at Altamira, planted in 1925, grow near the Uco Valley’s Río Tunuyán. The river leads cold winds down from the Andes, which had an impact on the fruit character of this harvest, overall a cooler year than 2009: This vintage has a singular nerve, crisp and vibrant red fruit and violet flavors. The wine’s acidity might seem firm to those accustomed to riper styles of malbec, but it melds right into the juiciness of the wine, making it delicious to drink now. The old-vine concentration of flavor will build complexity over the next ten years. § TGIC Importers, Woodland Hills, CA 111621 92 | Bodega noemia 88 | Wakefield $17 87 | greg norman $15 85 | Yalumba $12 2010 Mendoza Barrel Select Reserva Malbec ^ All of malbec’s appeal is here: the scent of violets, ripe cherry flavors and bright acidity. They combine in a wine that’s easy to drink on its own or with charcuterie. § TGIC Importers, Woodland Hills, CA 110885 90 | Colomé $19 wine expresses itself. At first, there’s not much more than toasted lees and oak smoke. With air, the wine’s delicacy comes through in scents of almond skin and nectarine. This is a polished style, needing age to show its best. § Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA 111173 $128 2012 Patagonia–Río Negro J. Alberto^ From a ten-acre vineyard planted in 1955 with a massale selection of malbec (and five percent merlot), this is farmed under biodynamics, fermented without added yeast and then left to rest in barrels, cement tanks and concrete eggs for nine months. It was bottled 2011 Clare Valley Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ A mellow chardonnay with scents of orange blossoms and pear, this feels supple. Its raspy acidity will clean up after shellfish. § American Wine Distributors, San Francisco, CA 111169 A UStr ALi A WHite 2011 Eden Valley Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ Honey and lemon, toast and cream combine in this clean, gentle white. There’s pistachiolike nuttiness in the finish, suited to a chicken Caesar salad. § Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA 111309 cHaRDONNaY 111207 92 | Bindi $70 2011 Victoria Composition Chardonnay ^ Oak toast dominates this wine when it’s first poured. Give it time and the pear fruit takes over, creamy, mineral-rich and touched by sweetness. It gains focus as it develops scents of lemon blossoms and flint. A generous chardonnay with the depth to warrant cellaring. § Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA 111360 92 | Yeringberg MaRSaNNe $35 91 | d’Arenberg 2012 South Australia The Y Series Unwooded Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ Scents of peach and lavender fill this broad, simple white. A chill will emphasize its freshness. For aperitifs. § Negociants USA, Napa, CA $32 2012 Yarra Valley Chardonnay ^ Clean and fragrant, this layers notes of quince and toasted lees over cool, pale wheat and white flower scents. The delicacy of the flavors makes it intriguing. Chill it for roast veal. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA 111366 2011 Adelaide Hills The Lucky Lizard Chardonnay ^ Citrusy and brisk with tightly focused scents of lemon blossoms and chamomile flowers, this is light in the middle with flavors of rolled oats and oranges. Lemoncrisp acidity balances the touch of sweetness in the end, making this a match for grilled calamari. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA 111438 91 | Penfolds $130 2010 South Eastern Australia Yattarna Chardonnay ^ “Yattarna” in Aboriginal means “little by little,” which is how this 111494 95 | tahbilk $47 2002 Nagambie Lakes 1927 Vines Marsanne ^ Delicate floral energy drives this oldvine white, sustaining it across a decade of age and bringing up scents of wildflower honey and a tickle of green spice. The texture is rich and creamy, edged in a chalky acidity that makes it appetite inducing. Having established the potential of marsanne in WINE & SPIRITS OCTOBER 2013 79 http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.bodegacolome.com/ http://www.tahbilk.com.au/Category/special-offers

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2013

Wine & Spirits - October 2013
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered
Books
Spirits
The Heights of Terroir
Best New Sommeliers 2013
New & Noteworthy Bay Area Restaurants
Finger Lakes Road Trip
Extreme Values
Overview
US Chardonnay
Red Burgundy
Australian Shiraz
Bierzo & Galician Reds
Sherry
US New Releases
Imported New Releases
Somm Gaffs

Wine & Spirits - October 2013