Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 12

BROOKLYN, NY: SAUVAGE NASHVILLE, TN: SALT & VINE In a follow-up to the highly acclaimed oysterand-absinthe bar Maison Premiere, Krystof Zizka and Joshua Boissy recently opened Sauvage, a largewindowed space overlooking Greenpoint's McCarren Park. Bar director Will Elliott focuses on low-alcohol cocktails to enjoy throughout an afternoon spent at the long white marble bar, while Zizka concentrates on wines from small vignerons in the Loire, Burgundy and Champagne to pair with chef Lisa Giffen's Frenchinfluenced food. Go for oysters and a glass of Laherte Frères Champagne; stay for the leek terrine and de Moor Aligoté. -Caitlin Griffith Sauvage, 905 Lorimer St.; 718-486-6816, sauvageny.com Washed in white tiles and blond woods, Salt & Vine is a spacious all-day hangout with an artisanal food market and espresso bar up front, a dining room in the middle with communal tables, and a wine bar and tasting room in the back. At night, the cheese boards and salads make way for a more robust selection of sharable plates inflected with Middle Eastern flavors-lamb meatballs, curried mussels, grilled trout panzanella. The wine list, from owner Mattie Jackson, ups the game, with 25 choices by the glass, from Nik Weis Urban Riesling to Brandborg Pinot Noir from Elkton in Oregon-all available for purchase at the bottle shop next door. Or go with a group and order a punch-bowl special, like the Yes Way Jose, a blend of Tequila, rosé, and lemon and strawberry juices. -Erin ByErs Murray Salt & Vine, 4001 Charlotte Ave.; 615-800-8517, saltandvinenashville.com CHARLESTON, SC: BUTCHER & BEE 12 CHICAGO: GIANT DENVER, CO: THE WAY BACK Two years after chef Jason Vincent left the award-winning Nightwood, he's finally back, with Giant. Much like Nightwood, Giant's menu is slightly cheffy (uni shooters) and largely sourced from local, sustainable farms (like this August's marinated zucchini and summer corn). Partner Josh Perlman's wine list is one of Chicago's most exciting, the 65 selections, many less than $60, ranging from classic (López de Heredia Vina Cubillo 2007) to hipster (Day Wines Papacito, an Oregon pét-nat made from primitivo). Ask Perlman for pairing advice; his current favorite is pici-chewy strands of pasta with jalapeño and bacon-with a Sattler Zwiegelt from Austria's Burgenland. -John lEnart Giant, 3209 W. Armitage Ave.; 773-252-0997, giantrestaurant.com At The Way Back in Denver's Berkeley neighborhood, chefs Samuel Charles and Marcus Eng create beautiful small plates to complement the drinks from owner Chad Michael George. Start with a cocktail-George was famous for them at Williams & Graham-maybe the Oaxacaninfluenced Garden, a mezcal drink with fresh green aromatics and a zip of spice. Then pick a few bites from the "supper" list and a glass of wine-perhaps one of the four Sherries on the list for trout with lemon and pecans, or a Côtes du Rhône from J.L. Chave for the beef heart, spätzle and mustard. Don't leave without a peek at the brandy list: Peach Street Distillers' Aged Peach Brandy, made from fruit grown in Palisade, Colorado, is excellent, especially with the goat cheese tart with fig, honey and almond. -nataliE faCkElMayEr The Way Back, 4132 W. 38th St., Denver; 720-728-8156, waybackdenver.com WINE & SPIRITS OCTOBER 2016 Sauvage photo by Katie Burton; Salt & Vine photo by Hannah Schneider; Giant photo by Galdones Photography. The Way Back photo by Becca Ann Fogg Photography. Long a local favorite, Michael Shemtov's Butcher & Bee has just gotten better. Once lunch-only, the new "Bee," in a bright, airy uptown space, serves breakfast and dinner, as well as a full selection of wine and cocktails. Start with the whipped feta with honey on pita made by pastry chef Cynthia Wong; then dive into the Israeliinspired plates that chefs Chelsey Conrad and William Mote conjure up from the season's bounty. This past summer, that meant ratatouille with grilled tuna and Carolina peaches with a pork porterhouse. Sommelier Joe Robitaille (Il Buco, NYC) put together a wine list that complements the Mediterranean feel, with choices that range from Tajinaste Listán Bianco from the Canary Islands to a zippy La Galoche Beaujolais rosé and Wind Gap's Soif red. The bottles are conveniently grouped by price, at $30, $50 and $90. The cocktails, highlighting local spirits like Striped Pig and Vergil Kaine, are more reasons to visit. -noah sinGErMan Butcher & Bee, 1085 Morrison Dr.; 843-619-0202, butcherandbee.com http://www.saltandvinenashville.com http://www.sauvageny.com http://www.butcherandbee.com http://www.giantrestaurant.com http://thewaybackdenver.com/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2016