Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 16
"I never had
a singular
moment of
revelation with
wine... But I
had it with
Chartreuse. It
was simply one
of the most
magical things
I'd ever tasted."
-Paul Einbund
16
WINE & SPIRITS
quée à Tarragone par les Pères Chartreux, but it never
seemed to regain its mass popularity.
After they moved back to their French monastery in
1929, the distillery was totaled by a mudslide in 1935.
The monks rebuilt in nearby Voiron, but Chartreuse
largely remained that obscure, neglected bottle sitting
in the corner of the bar until the cocktail revolution
of the 2000s.
Today, bartenders are drawn to Chartreuse in
part for its mystery: Still distilled at the monastery
in Voiron, the secret formula is known to only three
monks, two of whom prepare separate elements of
the formula. But the renewed interest is also due to
the spirit's complexity, versatility and captivating flavor-elements that become only more fascinating as
the liqueur evolves in bottle.
This is what attracts collectors like Einbund: the old
vintages; the highly desirable, exceedingly rare Tarragona bottlings; and the seemingly endless stream of
new products-fascinating variations released without even the slightest announcement or attribution.
"I love that every time I take a trip to Europe, I find
something that I didn't even know existed," Einbund
says. Whether popping up in a fancy Parisian wine
shop or in a grocery in Barcelona, each unique bottling
offers a new perspective, a new expression of the work
OCTOBER 2016
of these quiet, mysterious monks.
As Einbund was working on opening The Morris, I
joined him to taste through a few of his more obscure
treasures-all of which he'll offer at the restaurant.
There's the odd Eau de Vie Chartreuse, a brown spirit
made from a Chartreuse distillate and aged in whiskey
barrels; it has the spirit's characteristic herbal flavors,
but bizarrely overlays them with the familiar flavors
of whiskey barrel aging. There's a Santa Tecla bottling
Einbund uncovered on a trip to Spain-evidently still
made by the monks for the Santa Tecla festival in Tarragona. ("Theoretically this is made in the Tarragonian
style," says Einbund. "What does that mean? F**k if
I know! No one wants to tell you. My guess is that
the difference in the Tarragonian water and spices created a spirit that was richer, rounder and softer.") In
the glass, its color lies somewhere between green and
yellow, and the taste follows, strong and herbal with
a powerful pull of alcohol. We taste the Liqueur du
9° Centenaire, created in 1984 to commemorate the
900th anniversary of the order's founding, and the
strange 2003 Episcopal, a blend of one-third green
and two-thirds yellow Chartreuse in a blingy silver
half bottle. All have the warm, bitter, densely layered
and inimitable taste of Chartreuse, yet all are different expressions, some punchier, others more herbal,
others favoring spice.
The Morris joins only a handful of American bars
with serious Chartreuse collections. The Office, the private, invitation-only bar beneath Chicago's Aviary is
known for an impressive array of older bottles, as is
Pouring Ribbons in Manhattan. At Canon in Seattle, a
pour of ultra-rare yellow Tarragona circa 1935 will set
you back $550.
If you're reluctant to fork over a few C-notes for a
taste of aged Chartreuse, time is on your side. One of
the most captivating bottles I tasted with Einbund was
a yellow Chartreuse aged 40 years (current releases sell
for $55). It was beautiful, with a constellation of dense,
rich spices that had turned warmer and richer with
age. Find that dusty bottle forgotten on some store's
back shelf, and you may have a bottle with some age.
In fact, there's a way to date Chartreuse bottlings
of the last 25 years, says Tim Master, Chartreuse specialist for the importer Frederick Wildman. "Since the
early 1990s, a six-digit code has been printed on each
bottle's neck label," he explains. "If you add 1084 (the
date of the order's founding) to the first three digits,
you get the year it was bottled." Thus the code from
this year's bottles begins with 932. "Always check out
shops that look like they don't sell much Chartreuse,"
he says. "I've found several fifteen-year-old bottles,"
and he found them for half the price of a new release.
The thrill of the hunt for rare Chartreuse doesn't
require a trip to France or Spain; it could begin in your
own backyard. n
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2016
Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 71
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Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 75
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Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 78
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Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 81
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Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 83
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Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover4
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