Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 70
YEAR'S BEST RED BURGUNDY
tandem with their domaine, producing this
rich and rustic wine from purchased fruit.
It's gentle and round, graciously fruity with
bright cherry flavors and plenty of acidity to
keep those flavors juicy. New oak adds some
sophistication, further concentrating the
flavors and asking for cellar time or several
hours in a decanter to allow the wine to fully
open. § North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
IRANCY
214811
90 | Vini Viti Vinci
$35
2014 Irancy Les Beaux Monts ^ Nicolas Vauthier ran a natural wine bar in Troyes before
setting up shop as a négociant. He focuses
on the relatively unexplored corners of Burgundy, such as this village in the north. After
a partially carbonic fermentation in fiberglass tanks, he ages this in used barriques,
then bottles without fining or filtering. The
time in old oak brings some strength to the
structure of this wine, along with hints of caramel to balance the complex fruit character.
It's juicy and bright, with touches of Brett
against an overall clean backdrop. When you
consider what you're getting for the price,
this is a steal. § Jenny & François Selections, NY
214509
87 | Clotilde Davenne
$27
2014 Irancy (Best Buy) ^ Rafael Ginsburg of
Ai Fiori in NYC described this wine as "a floral, summery rosé alternative." It's skinny
and light enough to serve chilled, which
would emphasize the brisk acidity and the
clean, juicy flavors. For charcuterie. § Bonhomie Wine Imports, South Orange, NJ
B OU RG O GN E
$48
2013 Bourgogne Terres de Famille Pinot
Noir ^ The standout among all the Bourgogne
rouge we tasted for this issue, this smells
like Burgundy ("Tart and stinky," said Sarah
Looper of SevenFifty.com. "Burgundy needs
to stink. It shouldn't smell like the buxom
fruit of California.") It's a blend focused
on clay soils, from two parcels in Gilly-lèsCiteaux (east of the D974, near Vougeot
and Chambolle), and two parcels in Beaune
(one-quarter of the blend comes from Montée Rouge, where the vines date to the early
1950s). Harmonious, red fruited, with bright
sour cherry flavors, delicate herb-scented
tannins and meaty notes, this is soft on acidity in the end, even as the aroma draws you
back for another sip. § Boisset Collection, St.
Helena, CA
214528
WINE & SPIRITS
$22
2014 Bourgogne Réserve Pinot Noir (Best
Buy) ^ A light and pretty wine, this balances
red cherry fruit and earthy tannins. For pork
rillettes. § Henriot, NY
B E A UJOL AIS
OCTOBER 2016
verve. Delicious with roast squab stuffed with
cranberries and wild mushrooms. § Frederick
Wildman and Sons, NY
215239
91 | Anne-Sophie Dubois
$25
2014 Fleurie l'Alchimiste ^ Anne-Sophie
Dubois worked in Volnay before setting up
her 20-acre domaine in Fleurie. She grows
this fruit on 40-year-old vines and ferments
it without added yeast, aging the wine in
cement vats as well as varying sizes of older
oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered,
it's a plump gamay, racy in its acidity, meaty
in its substantial tannins. Yet those tannins
are also silky, carrying a floral scent through
the finish. § Grand Cru Selections, NY
215054
85 | Louis Jadot
$13
2015 Beaujolais (Best Buy) ^ A warm, ripe
gamay with primary grape flavors, this is a
soft and pleasant Beaujolais to serve lightly
chilled. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES
215053
215260
88 | Louis Jadot
$14
87 | Stéphane Aviron
$15
2015 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ Violet scents add freshness to this wine's lovely
richness of fruit, the flavors of floral strawberry compote showing the ripeness of the
vintage in their saturation. Cool and juicy,
this is ready to enjoy with grilled chicken sausages. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
215438
2014 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ Fresh
and friendly, this grapey red's taut cherryskin flavors and violet scents will take a chill
for burgers. § Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY
C OT E A U X B O U R G U I G N O N S
215121
90 | Dom. de la Vougeraie
$20
2013 Bourgogne Le Renard Pinot Noir
(Best Buy) ^ There's a lot of enjoyment to be
found in this floral, spicy Burgundy, from
its rose-stem notes to its earthy mushroom
scents. It's a little heady and evolved, the garnet color and warmth of the finish suggesting
that you drink it now with coq au vin. § Saranty
Imports, White Plains, NY
215041
86 | Bouchard Père & Fils
YON N E
70
87 | A&A Devillard
214454
87 | Ch. du Bois de la Salle $14
2015 Coteaux Bourguignons L'Audacieux
(Best Buy) ^ With a cool wash of tannins over
bright raspberry and spicy currant fruit, this
is a light gamay that feels open and generous
in its flavors. Pour it with a gamey pâté. § Esprit
du Vin, Syosset, NY
91 | Maison L'Envoyé
$20
88 | Maison L'Envoyé
$20
2014 Fleurie Château Vivier Monopole
(Best Buy) ^ Generous and firm from the first
taste, this wine rides its youthful energy over
concentrated tannins, mingling rose scents
with notes of pepper and mustard seed. You
could decant this now to serve with a salad
of bitter greens and seared chicken liver, or
cellar it to let the tannins soften. § Old Bridge
Cellars, Napa, CA
214499
2013 Fleurie Château Vivier Monopole
(Best Buy) ^ Stony and floral, this is a black
and savory Beaujolais with persistent, earthy
tannins. There's a rustic, tomato-skin briskness to the tannins, suited to pork rillettes or
a country pâté. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
MORGON
FLEURIE
215445
91 | Stéphane Aviron
$24
2014 Fleurie Domaine de la Madrière
Vieilles Vignes ^ From a hillside vineyard on
Fleurie's western side, this is a fresh 2014
with bright blue fruit and floral notes just
beginning to emerge. The juicy acidity cuts
through any aspect of dimpled ripeness,
bringing out the wine's complexity and
214465
92 | Château de Bellevue
$23
2013 Morgon Climat Les Charmes (Best
Buy) ^ Made from a block of 40-year-old vines,
this is destemmed and aged in both cement
and older oak. It's rosy at the beginning and
http://www.maisonlenvoye.com/
http://www.cognac-one.com/portfolios/morgon_les_charmes_2013/
http://www.SevenFifty.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2016
Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover4
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