Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 70

YEAR'S BEST RED BURGUNDY tandem with their domaine, producing this rich and rustic wine from purchased fruit. It's gentle and round, graciously fruity with bright cherry flavors and plenty of acidity to keep those flavors juicy. New oak adds some sophistication, further concentrating the flavors and asking for cellar time or several hours in a decanter to allow the wine to fully open. § North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA IRANCY 214811 90 | Vini Viti Vinci $35 2014 Irancy Les Beaux Monts ^ Nicolas Vauthier ran a natural wine bar in Troyes before setting up shop as a négociant. He focuses on the relatively unexplored corners of Burgundy, such as this village in the north. After a partially carbonic fermentation in fiberglass tanks, he ages this in used barriques, then bottles without fining or filtering. The time in old oak brings some strength to the structure of this wine, along with hints of caramel to balance the complex fruit character. It's juicy and bright, with touches of Brett against an overall clean backdrop. When you consider what you're getting for the price, this is a steal. § Jenny & François Selections, NY 214509 87 | Clotilde Davenne $27 2014 Irancy (Best Buy) ^ Rafael Ginsburg of Ai Fiori in NYC described this wine as "a floral, summery rosé alternative." It's skinny and light enough to serve chilled, which would emphasize the brisk acidity and the clean, juicy flavors. For charcuterie. § Bonhomie Wine Imports, South Orange, NJ B OU RG O GN E $48 2013 Bourgogne Terres de Famille Pinot Noir ^ The standout among all the Bourgogne rouge we tasted for this issue, this smells like Burgundy ("Tart and stinky," said Sarah Looper of SevenFifty.com. "Burgundy needs to stink. It shouldn't smell like the buxom fruit of California.") It's a blend focused on clay soils, from two parcels in Gilly-lèsCiteaux (east of the D974, near Vougeot and Chambolle), and two parcels in Beaune (one-quarter of the blend comes from Montée Rouge, where the vines date to the early 1950s). Harmonious, red fruited, with bright sour cherry flavors, delicate herb-scented tannins and meaty notes, this is soft on acidity in the end, even as the aroma draws you back for another sip. § Boisset Collection, St. Helena, CA 214528 WINE & SPIRITS $22 2014 Bourgogne Réserve Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^ A light and pretty wine, this balances red cherry fruit and earthy tannins. For pork rillettes. § Henriot, NY B E A UJOL AIS OCTOBER 2016 verve. Delicious with roast squab stuffed with cranberries and wild mushrooms. § Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY 215239 91 | Anne-Sophie Dubois $25 2014 Fleurie l'Alchimiste ^ Anne-Sophie Dubois worked in Volnay before setting up her 20-acre domaine in Fleurie. She grows this fruit on 40-year-old vines and ferments it without added yeast, aging the wine in cement vats as well as varying sizes of older oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it's a plump gamay, racy in its acidity, meaty in its substantial tannins. Yet those tannins are also silky, carrying a floral scent through the finish. § Grand Cru Selections, NY 215054 85 | Louis Jadot $13 2015 Beaujolais (Best Buy) ^ A warm, ripe gamay with primary grape flavors, this is a soft and pleasant Beaujolais to serve lightly chilled. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES 215053 215260 88 | Louis Jadot $14 87 | Stéphane Aviron $15 2015 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ Violet scents add freshness to this wine's lovely richness of fruit, the flavors of floral strawberry compote showing the ripeness of the vintage in their saturation. Cool and juicy, this is ready to enjoy with grilled chicken sausages. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY 215438 2014 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ Fresh and friendly, this grapey red's taut cherryskin flavors and violet scents will take a chill for burgers. § Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY C OT E A U X B O U R G U I G N O N S 215121 90 | Dom. de la Vougeraie $20 2013 Bourgogne Le Renard Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^ There's a lot of enjoyment to be found in this floral, spicy Burgundy, from its rose-stem notes to its earthy mushroom scents. It's a little heady and evolved, the garnet color and warmth of the finish suggesting that you drink it now with coq au vin. § Saranty Imports, White Plains, NY 215041 86 | Bouchard Père & Fils YON N E 70 87 | A&A Devillard 214454 87 | Ch. du Bois de la Salle $14 2015 Coteaux Bourguignons L'Audacieux (Best Buy) ^ With a cool wash of tannins over bright raspberry and spicy currant fruit, this is a light gamay that feels open and generous in its flavors. Pour it with a gamey pâté. § Esprit du Vin, Syosset, NY 91 | Maison L'Envoyé $20 88 | Maison L'Envoyé $20 2014 Fleurie Château Vivier Monopole (Best Buy) ^ Generous and firm from the first taste, this wine rides its youthful energy over concentrated tannins, mingling rose scents with notes of pepper and mustard seed. You could decant this now to serve with a salad of bitter greens and seared chicken liver, or cellar it to let the tannins soften. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA 214499 2013 Fleurie Château Vivier Monopole (Best Buy) ^ Stony and floral, this is a black and savory Beaujolais with persistent, earthy tannins. There's a rustic, tomato-skin briskness to the tannins, suited to pork rillettes or a country pâté. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA MORGON FLEURIE 215445 91 | Stéphane Aviron $24 2014 Fleurie Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes ^ From a hillside vineyard on Fleurie's western side, this is a fresh 2014 with bright blue fruit and floral notes just beginning to emerge. The juicy acidity cuts through any aspect of dimpled ripeness, bringing out the wine's complexity and 214465 92 | Château de Bellevue $23 2013 Morgon Climat Les Charmes (Best Buy) ^ Made from a block of 40-year-old vines, this is destemmed and aged in both cement and older oak. It's rosy at the beginning and http://www.maisonlenvoye.com/ http://www.cognac-one.com/portfolios/morgon_les_charmes_2013/ http://www.SevenFifty.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2016

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2016 - Cover4
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