Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 56

YEAR'S BEST RHONE WINES
217541

90 | Dom. du Grand Tinel

90 | Dom. Grand Veneur

$53

90 | Dom. Grand Veneur

$53

2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Miocène ^
Grown in the cooler northern end of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this wine manages to feel
blue-fruited and cool at the same time. The
fine rasp of the tannic structure gives it shape
and gravitas, a steadfast feel that suggests
this will age well over the next five years. §
Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
217746
2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ This retains a
sense of 2012's hot summer in the grapey
richness of its fruit, almost thick until the
wine begins to relax in the glass. Then it gets
interesting: Spice, earth and a meatiness that
brings lamb fat to mind turn it into a savory
pleasure. Velvety in texture, it's ready now for
lamb chops. § Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
217736

90 | Dom. de la Mordorée $140

2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Reine des
Bois ^ A superextracted style of Châteauneuf,
this is nearly black in color and flavor, the
dark-berry notes deepened by scents of
leather and licorice. The time in barrel reads
more in texture than flavor, the tannins
melted into a ganache-like richness. Modern
and showy, this is a wine for an opulent dinner. § Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
217565

90 | Domaine du Pegau

WINE & SPIRITS

218010

211865

90 | Château La Nerthe

$42

2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Granières
de la Nerthe ^ From the estate's younger
vines, this is as buoyant in its ripe cherry
flavor as it is finely tailored, with tannins and
acidity cinching the wine into an elegant line.
It lasts, sprightly and perfumed with spice,
wanting pissaladière. (W&S 6/16) § Pasternak
Wine Imports, Harrison, NY

CO L L INES RH ODANIENNES
217666

92 | M&S Ogier

$85

2012 Collines Rhodaniennes L'Ame Soeur
Syrah de Seyssuel ^ Stéphane Ogier headed
eight miles north from his winery in Ampuis
to plant syrah in Seyssuel in 2001. Well
regarded in the 19th century, the area had
fallen out of favor until recently, its renaissance driven by wines like this. Planted on
granite soils, it's a shoo-in for Côte Rôtie,
black-pepper spice and leather notes taking
the black fruit in a savory direction, the structure lean and elegant despite its firm tannins.
Match its beefy flavor with a dry-aged steak. §
Domaine Select Wine & Spirits/Robert Kacher
Selections, NY

$74

2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réser-
vée ^ Laurence Féraud farms 52 acres of vines
spread throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
the oldest bearing for more than 100 years.
She uses all 13 permitted grape varieties in
this wine, fermenting them with their stems
and without added yeasts or temperature
control, then ages the juice for two years in
large, old oak barrels. Her strategy makes for
a savory, earthy wine, more redolent of bacon
and black olives than fruit. Fine tannins hold
the wine firm, even as it heads into gamier
territory. Pour it with venison. § Hand Picked
Selections, Warrenton, VA

CORNAS

$80

2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ^ Mostly gre-
nache, with 20 percent mourvèdre, this is
generously fruity and giving, with smooth,
dark-red-berry flavor. Air brings notes of violets and blood sausage, adding interest, as
does the alcohol (15 percent), giving it a peppery kick. Drink in the near term with beef
brisket. § Serge Doré Selections, Chappaqua, NY
217742

FEBRUARY 2017

217859

88 | Jean-Michel Gerin

$20

2014 Collines Rhodaniennes La Champine
Syrah (Best Buy) ^ As dense and dark as
motor oil, this floral syrah tastes of licorice
and chocolate-covered espresso beans.
Ex-tracted and flashy, it's built for steakhouse
dining. § Esprit du Vin, Port Washington, NY
217439

88 | Cave de Tain

$12

2015 Collines Rhodaniennes Nobles Rives
Syrah (Best Buy) ^ Super-purple in color,
and super-reduced in scent, this extracted
red needs decanting. Prepare for a deluge of
purple fruit pouring over grippy tannins. It's
jaunty and brash, and will make short work
of short ribs. § Saranty Imports, Harrison, NY

93 | Franck Balthazar

$45

92 | Franck Balthazar

$60

90 | Franck Balthazar

$60

90 | Ferraton Père & Fils

$69

2014 Cornas Cuvée Casimir Balthazar ^
Casimir Balthazar founded this estate in
1931. It remained a tiny, under-the-radar
domaine until his grandson, Franck, took
over, in 2002. Now, after several land
purchases, including a 97-year-old vineyard
he bought from his uncle, Noël Verset, the
estate totals 8.6 acres. He blends this cuvée
from old and young vines, the bunches
fermented whole without added yeasts,
the juice aged in old 600-liter casks. Those
stems give it an edgy energy, peppery and
tangy, drawing out the gamey side of its fruit.
The flavors last, seeming to grow redder in
flavor and more insistent, a mouthwatering
Cornas. § Grand Cru Selections, NY
218011
2014 Cornas Chaillot ^ Mainly from a centenarian plot of syrah, the fruit for this wine is
farmed organically and fermented spontaneously with whole bunches, producing a dark,
rich, open and giving Cornas. Floral tones
accent its fresh, juicy side, while mineral
tones quietly hold the structure firm, keeping the wine on the elegant side of Cornas. §
Grand Cru Selections, NY
217556
2014 Cornas Sans Soufre ^ Ebullient wine,
this offers a riot of scents and flavors right
up front, from sausage to cedar, strawberries,
spice and plums. Made from young-vine fruit
vinified as whole bunches without added
yeasts or any added sulfur, it's tangy and
spicy, even feral in its gamey notes, but it
lasts on fruit and florals, feeling clean and
mouthwatering. § Grand Cru Selections, NY
217656
2011 Cornas Lieu-Dit Les Eygats ^ Super
fresh and minty, this is Cornas in an ultramodern style, the fruit ripe and juicy, the
tannins polished to a glossy sheen. § HB Wine
Merchants, NY

COSTIERES DE NIMES
217853

90 | Domaine de la Petite
Cassagne

$13

2014 Costières de Nîmes (Best Buy) ^ Diane
de Puymorin purchased this 124-acre estate
in 1998, changing the name to Château d'Or
et de Gueules. She still bottles this wine
under the estate's old name, making it in a
traditional style, fermented and aged in concrete tanks. A blend of equal parts grenache
and syrah with carignan and mourvèdre,

http://www.pasternakwine.com/product/les-granieres-de-la-nerthe-2013-chateauneuf-du-pape/ http://www.domaine-gerin.fr/vins/syrah

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2017