Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 58


YEAR'S BEST RHONE WINES
oak and stony earth in a rich, head-filling
aroma. The flavor is equally impressive, a
bracing acidity powering through the firm
mineral and red berry flavors, the wine
building in size and breadth as it takes on
air. Oak adds opulence without masking the
wine, and should further recede with time. §
Vintus, Pleasantville, NY
217655

90 | Ferraton Père & Fils

$108

2013 Ermitage Les Dionnières ^ In Ferraton's friendly, fruity style, this is packed
with black cherry, blackberry and plum flavor, with tobacco scents of oak to enrich it.
Syrah's peppercorn spice hides in the depths
along with the wine's tannins, as smooth as
they are firm. § HB Wine Merchants, NY

LIRAC
217735

90 | Dom. de la Mordorée

$23

2014 Lirac La Dame Rousse (Best Buy) ^
Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this grenache-syrah blend is almost crunchy in its
freshness, the fruit firm and juicy, holding
to an elegant, clean line. § Kysela Père et Fils,
Winchester, VA
217975

87 | Domaine Lafond

$16

2013 Lirac Roc-Epine (Best Buy) ^ Cherrybright and spicy, with pleasantly gruff
tannins, this grenache-based red would
match well with lamb sausages. § Wines of
France, Mountainside, NJ

15 to 20 days, then resting it for a year in a
mix of large and small oak barrels, mostly
old. It smells awesome, floral and spicy, with
a freshness that's invigorating; it tastes just
as good, the sun-kissed ripeness of the black
fruit melding with cold, hard mineral tones
into a seamless expanse of dark flavor. For
all its density, it feels agile and energetic, a
youthful St-Joseph to enjoy now or cellar
another five or ten years. § Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant, Berkeley, CA
217612

92 | Domaine Faury

$32

2014 St-Joseph (Best Buy) ^ Like Faury's 2014
Vieilles Vignes (above), this is head-turning
in fragrance, with lily scents playing up the
lush purple fruit. While the oldest vines that
inform this cuvée aren't exactly young-they
are nearing 40-the wine does have a jaunty
feel to it, electric acidity surging through the
voluptuous juice. It's pure and bright, with
licorice, rose and herb details. § Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
217971

91 | Dom. Bernard Gripa

$77

2013 St-Joseph Le Berceau ^ Pulled from the
Gripa family's oldest vines, this is vibrantly
purple in its color and flavor, brimming with
the succulence of a superripe plum. Oak
tones add to syrah's peppery spice, bringing
warmth and sweetness to the wine, as well
as a high shine. Modern and sophisticated. §
Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ

RASTEAU
217513

90 | Dom. Les Grands Bois $25

2014 Rasteau Marc (Best Buy) ^ With 50
percent grenache-less than most Rasteau-
and 25 percent each mourvèdre and syrah,
this has more grip and structure than you
might expect. It's juicy and dark, as dense as
a fruitcake, with an animal edge to the spicy,
wild-berry fruit, and yet it feels alive, spiked
by mineral flavors, powered by mourvèdre
tannins. Rustic and delicious, especially if
there's game on the table. § Weygandt-Metzler
Importing, Unionville, PA

ST-JOSEPH
217613

94 | Domaine Faury

$38

2014 St-Joseph Vieilles Vignes ^ Lionel
Faury makes this wine from about two
acres of syrah, the oldest vines dating to
1937, the youngest to 1976. He vinifies
it like he does his other St-Joseph (also
recommended here), destemming about
three-quarters of the fruit, leaving it to
ferment in temperature-controlled vats for
58

WINE & SPIRITS

FEBRUARY 2017

this wine, bringing freshness to its dark, gravelly fruit. It feels like it was grown in a forest,
the fruit ripe but cool, pristine in its balance. §
Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
217528

90 | Dom. de l'Espigouette $25

2013 Vacqueyras ^ Bernard Latour and his
family run this estate in Sarrians, in the
foothills of the Massif des Dentelles. Their
2013-a blend of 80 percent grenache with 15
percent syrah and five percent mourvèdre-
is red-berried and taut, with a floral freshness
that makes it immediately appealing. It lasts,
the fruit bolstered by spice and mineral
tones. § Serge Doré Selections, Chappaqua, NY
217682

90 | Domaine Saint Pierre

VIN DE FRANCE
217383

90 | Jean Delobre

90 | Jean-Michel Gerin

$32

2014 St-Joseph (Best Buy) ^ Compact and
dense, this is tough and reticent right now,
the juicy plum fruit walled off by mineral
tannins and oak. It feels steadfast and quietly
powerful, wanting only time in the cellar to
mellow before it shows its detail. § Esprit du
Vin, Boca Raton, FL

VACQUEYRAS

$9

2015 Vin de France (Best Buy) ^ Olivier
Hillaire runs La Part des Anges, a brasserie
in the town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This
wine, a blend of grenache, carignan and
syrah from vineyards about 19 miles west
of town, seems designed with brasserie fare
in mind: It's dark-berried and spicy, with a
rustic growl of tannins that accents the wine's
savory side and fresh, brisk acidity that keeps
it lively. For $9, it's a steal. § Wines of France,
Mountainside, NJ

VINSOBRES
217740

90 | Famille Perrin

217729

92 | Alain Jaume & Fils

$28

2015 Vin de France La Ferme des Sept
Lunes Glou ^ A gamay grown in St-Joseph,
farmed biodynamically and made with no
added sulfur, this is exuberantly fresh and
fruity-exactly what you'd expect from the
name ("glou" is French slang for a quaffer).
Where it surprises is in the savory meatiness
that underlines the plum-scented fruit, a
depth and stoniness that gives it gravitas.
Pour it with roast duck, or pork rillettes. §
Domaine Select Wine Estates, NY
217981

88 | Dom. Olivier-Hillaire

217687

$21

2013 Vacqueyras (Best Buy) ^ Velvet textured
and redolent with foresty spice, this has a
core of pure black-cherry flavor that feels
pristine. It's simple and refreshing in its lack
of pretension. § Cognac One, NY

$29

2014 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue ^ This is
named both for the Plateau des Garrigues,
an expanse of limestone and clay covered in
galets roulés just north of Sarrians, as well as
for the fragrant brush that grows among the
stones. Those scents are front and center in

$20

2013 Vinsobres Les Cornuds ^ From a vineyard at the northern edge of the southern
Rhône, this evokes cooler climes in its lean,
peppery red fruit. And yet the wine feels substantial, a firm minerality lending it breadth
and length. Pair it with a juicy, rare steak. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL n


http://www.domaine-gerin.fr/vins/saint-joseph

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 23
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Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 31
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Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 58
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Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover4
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