Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 80


IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
91 | Torbreck

90 | Thistledown

$125

2013 Barossa Valley Descendant ^ This shiraz
vineyard on Roennfeldt Road was planted
in 1994 with cuttings from ancient vines
used for Torbreck's RunRig. Cofermented
with viognier that has been lightly pressed
for RunRig, the blend ages in older barrels,
from RunRig. So it's a descendant in several
ways. Tasted side by side with its ancestor,
the Descendant is not a heavy wine, but it's
no less intense. It feels floral and cool in its
bright red currant flavors, juicy rather than
jammy, sleek, structured and firm. § Wine
Creek, Healdsburg, CA

118939

90 | Ess & See

90 | Penfolds

118937

90 | 5OS Project

$25

2015 McLaren Vale Single Vineyard Shiraz
Viognier ^ Shiraz as black as the tar at the edge
of the road, bubbling in the summer heat,
this is full-on rich, smooth and supple, but it
still holds air within its tannins, showing the
freshness of the grapes. Earthy and broad,
it's a wine for a mutton chop. § Biagio Cru and
Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY
118890

90 | Best's

$25

2014 Great Western Bin No 1 Shiraz
(Best Buy) ^ This is rich and supple without
feeling in any way heavy. Instead, there's a
clean refinement to the tart pomegranate
flavors-a firm, juicy shiraz that's approach-
able now, especially if there's Moroccan
lamb on the menu. § Little Peacock Imports,
Wilmington, DE
118821

90 | Domaine Terlato &
Chapoutier

$40

2013 Pyrenees Lieu-Dit Malakoff Shiraz ^
Michel Chapoutier found this east-facing
site at the southern edge of the Pyrenees in
1998, and asked Tony Terlato, his importer in
Chicago, to partner with him to plant it. The
vines, growing on their own roots in schist,
shale and quartz soils, produced a brooding,
concentrated shiraz that blankets the palate
in savory black tannins. The wine is more
meaty than fruity, needing cellar time for the
generous texture to release its fruit flavors. §
Terlato Wines Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL

80

WINE & SPIRITS

FEBRUARY 2017

$28

2014 Adelaide Hills Shiraz ^ This is a big
shiraz restrained by the coolness of the
Adelaide Hills, so that even while the texture
is a little syrupy, the girth of its red and blue
fruit is girdled by touches of green in the
tannins. It ends on spice, with enough firm
acidity to keep the fruit in balance. § Biagio
Cru and Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY
119403
$30

2014 Coonawarra Bin 128 Shiraz ^ Coonawarra's narrow ridge of limestone is covered
in iron-rich topsoils, that terra rossa character shining through in this high-acid shiraz.
It's balanced between juicy black fruit and
a touch of caramelized sweetness from its
time in oak, tamed and softened, while still
retaining a clear regional distinction. § Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA
119540

$27

2015 Langhorne Creek The Cunning Plan
Shiraz (Best Buy) ^ All about freshness, this
presents its purple fruit with tart blackberry
overtones. There's nothing heavy or superripe about it. The freshness continues with
some rosy floral notes in the meaty tannins.
Then it lasts on a simple, clean fruit flavor. A
juicy shiraz for grilled baby lamb chops. § Wine
Dogs, Brooklyn, NY
119231

90 | Torbreck

$125

2013 Barossa Valley The Factor ^ A finely
textured 2013, this wine's blue-black fruit
has wholesome freshness to its clean,
fragrant length. There's some matchstickflinty reduction to capture and hold all the
juice. It's solidly built to age. § Wine Creek,
Healdsburg, CA
118697

88 | Domaine Terlato &
Chapoutier

$18

88 | Jim Barry

$20

88 | Penfolds

$30

88 | Sophie's

$17

88 | Wakefield

$17

2015 Victoria Shiraz-Viognier (Best Buy) ^
A small amount of viognier brings out floral
nuances and white-pepper spice in this dense
shiraz. It's a little brash in its tannins, a thicktextured red for braised meats. § Terlato Wines
Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
119060

90 | Rymill Coonawarra

$16

2015 Coonawarra The Yearling Shiraz
(Best Buy) ^ A lean shiraz with spicy greenpeppercorn scents and tarry, black-fruited
tannins, this is tart, lively and bright. Though
it's not designed for aging, it's exceptionally
drinkable now, especially with grilled lamb. §
Great Australian Wine Co., Calistoga, CA
119944

2014 Clare Valley The Lodge Hill Shiraz
(Best Buy) ^ This is a supple, well-made shiraz with sweet blackberry flavors. It's simple
and relatively cool and fresh in tone, coming
to an abrupt end. Good juice for a cookout. §
Negociants USA, Napa, CA
119402

90 | St Hallett

$16

2014 South Australia Bin 28 Shiraz (Best
Buy) ^ A warm-climate shiraz aged in used
American oak barrels, Bin 28 is black-fruited
with rooty spice in 2014. It's firm, with a tarry
edge of tannins, needing age to mellow,
or long-braised short ribs. § Treasury Wine
Estates, Napa, CA
118971

2015 Barossa Faith Shiraz (Best Buy) ^
Here's a steal: a classic Barossa shiraz with
black fruit and tarry tannins for $16. Give
it time in a decanter and those iron-hard
tannins lengthen out and the wine grows
juicier while its clean black fruit remains firm
and tangy. Buy this by the case and decant
it whenever there's meat on the menu. §
Distinguished Vineyards, Overland Park, KS
119943

90 | St Hallett

$39

2014 Barossa Blackwell Shiraz ^ Based on
fruit from Ebenezer, with contributions from
Greenock and Seppeltsfield, this starts off
with one dimension of black fruit, extracted
and dense. Air brings more detail, yielding
notes of tart cherries, the dark, chewy flavor
of blueberry skins and tarry tannins. Age this
for several years to let the fruit come forward. §
Distinguished Vineyards, Overland Park, KS
119519

2015 Barossa Valley Palm Block Shiraz (Best Buy) ^ Bright black-cherry flavors
plump up this wine's texture, so it feels both
fresh and a little syrupy. Peppery with notes
of eucalyptus and tar, it's a simple shiraz for
braised meats. § Wine Trees, Novato, CA
119208
2015 South Australia Shiraz (Best Buy) ^
This wine's quiet red fruit brings to mind
currants and persimmon. The warm tannins
carry notes of tar and black pepper, pointed
up by some volatile acidity that gives the


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 31
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 32
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 33
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 34
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 35
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 51
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 52
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 58
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 59
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 80
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Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - February 2017 - Cover4
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