Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 77

YEAR'S BEST SOUTHERN ITALY
by a cool salinity. § Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT;
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
212904

92 | Vadiaperti

$18

2014 Irpinia Coda di Volpe (Best Buy) ^ Fruit
for Troisi's basic coda di volpe comes from a
mix of young and old vines, some around 15
years of age and others more than 40, making this 2014 feel both lively and intense. It
tastes like lemons dipped in sea salt, the contrast of fruity and savory flavors producing
a lovely tension. That tension, along with a
cool acidity that refreshes the flavors, balances a chewy texture that comes solely from
the fruit rather than oak or lees contact. It
feels oceanic, a match for Wellfleet oysters.
(W&S 10/16) § Artisan Wines, Norwalk, CT;
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
220901

91 | Agnanum

$34

2015 Greco di Tufo ^ Sabino Loffredo's vines
are planted in the clay and sand soils that
overlay volcanic rock in the area of Montefredane. That volcanic character seeps through
in the intense smoky and salty notes that permeate his greco. It feels dense and chewy at
first, with flavors of pear, lemon and pineapple accented by notes of honey and a subtle savory quality. Decant it before serving
at cellar temperature to allow full expression
for those lovely smoky notes. § Panebianco, NY
212907

91 | Vadiaperti

$25

2015 Fiano di Avellino ^ Brisk acidity lends
freshness and precision to this wine's flavors
of golden apple and white peach. Notes of
honey-lemon tea round out the fruit on the
way to a polished and slightly warm finish. §
Terlato Wines Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
220181

90 | Mastroberardino

$25

2015 Fiano di Avellino Radici ^ This is a
weighty fiano with scents of sage and green
herb introducing its flavors of fresh pear
and citrus. It's woven together by tight lemony acidity, while notes of almond skin add
a pleasant bitterness that balances the ripe
fruit flavors. § Leonardo LoCascio Selections/
The Winebow Group, NY

$22

2015 Campi Flegrei Falanghina ^ Raffaele
Moccia's 25 acres of terraced vineyards line
the steep inner slope of a volcanic crater
near the city of Naples. His vines range in
age from 60 to 200 years, and their fruit lends
an almost chewy density to this falanghina.
With notes of smoke and flavors of dried
peach and pineapple, this is brightened by an
intense salinity that feels like a spray of seawater. The wine's smoky richness and dense,
chewy texture would play well with poached
lobster. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
220829

91 | Pietracupa

90 | Feudi di San Gregorio

$38

2014 Greco di Tufo Tornante ^ Troisi selects
fruit for Tornante from several vineyards,
including one that sits at 1,960 feet of elevation, and he harvests the fruit later than he
does his basic greco to gain more ripeness
and intensity. It opens with scents of roasted
nuts and smoked ham and flavors of honey
and green tea, subtle notes of golden apple
emerging alongside a sea-salt mineral tone.
While the texture is dense, the acidity keeps it
mouthwatering, ready to take on grilled sausages. (W&S 10/16) § Artisan Wines, Norwalk,
CT; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
220118

220509

90 | Mustilli

$21

2015 Sannio Sant'Agata dei Goti Greco
(Best Buy) ^ Scents of dandelion greens give
an herbal edge to this wine's flavors of yellow
apple and white peach. It feels high toned
and fresh, with salty minerality imparting
a silty texture along with briny notes reminiscent of green olive. Serve this well chilled
alongside sea bass baked in a salt crust. § North
Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
221222

90 | San Salvatore

$30

2016 Paestum Calpazio Greco ^ This wine's
succulent flavors and lightly chewy texture
create the impression of biting into a perfectly ripe peach. Juicy and fresh, with floral
scents and a hint of lime zest, it has enough
tangy acidity to balance the ripe fruit, leaving you refreshed and ready for another sip. §
Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, NY
212906

90 | Vadiaperti

$22

2014 Greco di Tufo (Best Buy) ^ Scents of
white flowers and lemon tea lead into flavors
of apple and citrus, cool saline notes cutting
through the wine's waxy texture to leave a
clean and fresh impression. More mineral
than fruity, this has the heft to accompany
duck pappardelle. (W&S 10/16) § Artisan
Wines, Norwalk, CT; North Berkeley Imports,
Berkeley, CA

S I C I LY
221294

94 | Tenuta delle
Terre Nere

$35

93 | Tenuta di Fessina

$25

93 | Graci

$28

93 | Tenuta d. Terre Nere

$40

2015 Etna Bianco Cuvée delle Vigne
Niche Santo Spirito ^ Carricante from the
Santo Spirito contrada on Etna's northern
slope forms the basis for this rich, mineraldriven wine. Scents of lemon zest and sage
lend a high note to the wine's flavors of
fleshy golden apple and Bartlett pear. The
wine rested for ten months in French oak
barriques, gaining a toasted-grain richness
and warm spice that lingers on the finish.
Despite its richness, the wine feels brisk and
lively, propelled by lemony acidity and a cool
stream of salinity. As complex and expressive
as it is now, this wine has the structure and
concentration to improve for several more
years. § deGrazia Imports, Evanston, IL
219928
2015 Etna Bianco Erse (Best Buy) ^ Initially
reticent in its flinty and acacia scents, Erse
becomes exuberant after a few hours with
air, offering vibrant flavors of yellow apple
and fresh lemon swirling with notes of dried
herbs. Its flavors deepen into almond skin,
raw honey and smoke, buoyed by mouthwatering acidity that makes you crave the sweet
fleshiness of grilled shrimp. § Leonardo LoCascio Selections/The Winebow Group, NY
220107
2015 Etna Bianco (Best Buy) ^ Alberto Aiello
Graci harvests carricante and catarrato for
this wine from vineyards at nearly 2,000
feet above sea level on Mount Etna's northern slope. The wine's cool acidity and intense
salinity wash across the palate like an ocean
wave, leaving a salty buzz behind. Scents of
hibiscus and flavors of fleshy peach, yellow
pear and lemon tea follow, and the wine takes
on notes of smoke and fresh-cut herbs in a
complex finish. § Massanois Imports, NY
217348
2015 Etna Bianco Cuvée delle Vigne Niche ^
Marco de Grazia culls fruit from all of his
estate vineyards for this wine, blending carricante (65 percent) with catarratto, grecanico, inzolia and minnella. It feels almost
like a young Grosses Gewachs riesling in its
powerful structure, chiseled minerality and
shy fruit expression. The wine is vinified in
stainless steel, and there's not a hint of sweetness in the white peach and lemon flavors
that emerge with air, yet the wine's density
lends richness to its stony texture. Notes of
smoked almond, sage and lemon tea emerge
over time, propelled by mouthwatering acidWINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2017

77


https://www.northberkeleyimports.com/project/azienda-agricola-mustilli/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 31
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 32
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 33
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 34
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 35
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 43
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 44
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 51
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 52
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 58
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 59
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 81
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 82
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 83
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2024spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2023winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2023fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2023summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2023spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2022winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2022fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2022summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2022spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2021winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202110
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2020winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2018_winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2017winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201406
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201310
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201306
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2012winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201210
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/fall2012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201208
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201206
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com