Wine & Spirits - June 2017 - 81

YEAR'S BEST SOUTHERN ITALY

220519

90 | Caravaglio

$24

2014 Salina Nero di Munti Corinto Nero ^
Antonio Caravaglio harvests corinto nero
grapes for this rare varietal bottling from
ancient vines (some up to 150 years of age)
that grow in the crater of an extinct volcano
on the Aeolian island of Lipari. Juicy acidity enlivens the wine's dense flavors of plum
and raspberry, and notes of black spice and
brushy Mediterranean herbs call for pairing it with roast leg of lamb. § North Berkeley
Imports, Berkeley, CA
220749

90 | Feudo di Santa Tresa

$33

2013 Terre Siciliane Avulisi di Santa Tresa
Nero d'Avola ^ Violet scents are carried on a
wave of black licorice that runs through this
wine's dense flavors of stewed plum and Kalamata olive. The wine rested for ten months
in French oak barriques that smoothed the
tannins and enriched the flavors with notes
of vanilla, anise and clove. A hint of menthol brightens the peppery finish, but this is
ready to drink now with pasta puttanesca. §
Vias Imports, NY

gesting a match with a fruit plate rather than
a sweet dessert. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
220883

90 | Graci

$29

90 | I Vigneri di Salvo Foti

Italy Vecchio Samperi ^ De Bartoli harvests
grillo from alberello-trained vines, then ages
the wine an average of 20 years in his solera.
The result is reminiscent of a Palo Cortado
Sherry in its rich, creamy flavors and dry finish. Notes of marzipan, toffee and toasted
hazelnut linger in a lacy structure, taking on
a hint of warm earthiness on the finish. This
would be delicious with aged cheese or a pistachio pastry. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
220933

$63

2014 Etna Rosso ^ Scents of bergamot and
rose petals offer a delicate prelude to tangy
flavors of early summer strawberry and white
raspberry. The wine's cool acidity gives way
to a wash of warm black minerality that carries notes of cigar smoke and tea leaves. It
feels bright and tight at the moment, calling for time in a decanter before serving with
crisp veal Milanesa. § Massanois Imports, NY
220886
2014 Etna Rosso Vinupetra ^ Foti's Vinupetra vineyard includes some alicante (grenache) and a smattering of other varieties
interplanted with nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio. Some of the vines are more
than 100 years old, and the wine shows the
concentration of their fruit in its flavors of
baked plum and dried cherry that meld with
notes of black olive caponata, brightened by
a spray of orange zest. Its intensely ripe and
briny character is reminiscent of aglianico,
and calls for a match with bistecca. § Louis/
Dressner Selections, NY

DE SS ERT
220896

94 | Marco de Bartoli

$28

Vino Rosso Contadino ^ Cornelissen's
entry-level nerello mascalese blend shows
a light spritz along with cidery aromas that
prompted one taster to remark that he would
shake it up before serving. The wine opens up
with exposure to air, offering flavors of tiny
red berries and blood orange tightened by
chewy cherry-skin tannins. Decant and taste
this over several hours to experience the fascinating evolution of flavors, from wild herbs

$95/500ml

2008 Passito di Pantelleria Bukkuram
Padre della Vigna ^ Marco de Bartoli produces this wine only in top vintages, drying half of the zibbibo (moscato) grapes for
three months and aging the wine in French
oak barriques to yield an amber-hued nectar that bursts with flavors of tangy orange,
dried plum and molasses. It feels creamy and
luscious, full of spiced fruit and nut flavors
reminiscent of Christmas cake, and the flavors linger long after the wine is gone. A true
meditation wine, it can stand on its own at
the end of a meal, but would be friends with
a block of dark chocolate and some toasted
almonds. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
220875

93 | Marco de Bartoli

219981

90 | Frank Cornelissen

and briny olives to darker tones of toasted
grain and charred meat. § Zev Rovine Selections, Brooklyn, NY
220108

$70/500ml

2012 Passito di Pantelleria Bukkuram
Sole d'Agosto ^ Sole d'Agosto is de Bartoli's
second dessert wine from the Bukkuram
estate, made every year from partially dried
moscato grapes and aged briefly in used
French oak barriques. The wine's spiced-ginger sweetness is balanced by notes of orange
zest and black tea. It's fruitier than Padre
della Vigna (recommended here, as well),
with tangy acidity that streams through flavors of apricot and mandarin orange, sug-

93 | Marco de Bartoli

$70/500ml

93 | Donnafugata

$40/375ml

2014 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé ^ This
wine's aromas are as appealing as its flavors. Exuberant floral and stone-fruit scents
translate into intense flavors of juicy apricot
and caramelized orange swirling with notes
of clove, anise and cinnamon. Brisk acidity and a wet-stone minerality balance the
wine's considerable sweetness, leading to a
surprisingly refreshing finish that leaves your
mouth buzzing with brown spices. § Folio Fine
Wine Partners, Napa, CA
221585

92 | Coste Ghirlanda

$70

2012 Passito di Pantelleria Alcova ^ You can
almost feel the island of Pantelleria's intense
warmth and sunshine in this wine's flavors of
baked plum, dried apricot and golden sultana. Notes of bitter orange rind and smoky
iodine brighten its molasses-like sweetness.
Chill it to cellar temperature and serve with
a plate of toasted almonds, figs and pecorino
cheese. § Artisanal Cellars, NY
220902

91 | Marco de Bartoli

$48/500ml

90 | Cantine Colosi

$38/375ml

Marsala Superiore Oro 5 Anni Vigna la
Miccia ^ Flavors of vanilla, toasted almond
and warm spice predominate in this smooth
and creamy wine. It's sweetness fades as
notes of caramelized citrus peel and orange
oil brighten the rich flavors, leading to a
long and nutty finish. § Louis/Dressner Selections, NY
220750
2009 Passito di Salina Malvasia delle
Lipari ^ This is made from malvasia grapes
harvested on the volcanic island of Salina,
off Sicily's northwest coast, and dried in the
sun for two weeks to concentrate the sugars,
leading to a caramel-colored wine with flavors of fig, apricot and orange concentrate.
Those fruit flavors give way to more exotic
notes of saffron, cardamom and sesame that
bring the wine to a warm and spicy finish. §
Vias Imports, NY n
WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2017

81
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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2017
