Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 43
"Sometimes wine pairing is like threading a needle from far away," says chef Sang Yoon of
Napa's Two Birds One Stone. "It's difficult when you're trying to hit a very small spot." But
there is a category that runs the gamut from dry to sweet, barely effervescent to eruptive
for days, red to white with rosé in between: "Sparkling wines. They're more like a sawedoff shotgun-you can easily hit a big target," says Yoon.
Culling chefs from around the country, I wanted
to know, what are their go-to pairings in the summer with a bottle of bubbles? The potato cropped
up a few times.
"If you go traditional French fry, you can't go
wrong," said Evan Hartman of Pleasantry in Cincinnati, whose menu complements one of the
largest natural-wine lists in the Midwest. Oyster
aficionado Renee Erickson of Seattle's The Walrus and the Carpenter ultimately went classic, with
bivalves and bubbles, but she's also a proponent
of mindless salty snacks. For me, that's a bag of
Cape Cod Potato Chips; for her, a toss-up between
Utz and Kettle.
So you see, sparklers don't have to be highbrow
or only uncorked for special occasions. But if you
are celebrating, Sarah Grueneberg of Chicago's
Monteverde recommends Prosecco-and a slice
of funfetti ice cream cake with toasted meringue.
Here are eight other ideas for summer dining.
Gabriel Kreuther, Gabriel Kreuther, NYC
Berries & Crémant d'Alsace
"Crémant can go at the end of the meal with a dessert-an Alsatian fruit tart, that
would be a go-to. We make the tarts with a lot of different fruits: apple, mirabelle or
berries. The pie crust is cooked with the fruit and then, half-way through cooking,
you add a mix of milk, cream and beaten egg, and cook it until the flan is set. Eat
this at room temperature with a glass of Crémant d'Alsace and the pairing is
beautiful. The Kuentz-Bas is well balanced and refreshing: light, nice and
crisp, with a great acidity, and not too sweet. When you pair something sweet on top of something sweet, it's overkill. Here, you
have the richness in the flan of the pie and refreshment from
the wine."
Chef's Pick: Kuentz-Bas NV Crémant d'Alsace
WINE & SPIRITS
AUGUST 2017
43
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover4
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