Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 58

YEAR'S BEST SUMMER SPARKLERS
notes, as if it were channeling a Manzanilla
from Sanlúcar. That salinity is combined with
timid touches of lime and herbs carried on
a powerful structure of tannins and acidity
that has the firmness of stones. § Rosenthal
Wine Merchant, NY
221487

93 | Recaredo

$56

2007 Cava Gran Reserva Brut de Brut
Finca Serral del Vell ^ Brut Nature The
Serral del Vell estate, on calcareous slopes
above the Río Bitlles, is planted with xarello
and macabeo. That fruit ripened to give this
wine its lovely creaminess, refreshed by thin,
persistent bubbles and intriguing salty notes.
The salty sensation is long and deep, giving
complexity and a very distinctive character
to this Cava. § Rosenthal Wine Merchant, NY
222835

92 | Alta Alella

$43

2015 Cava Capsigrany ^ Josep Maria PujolBusquets and his wife, Cristina Guillén, work
their vineyards organically, 1.2 miles from
the sea, in the Serralada de Marina Natural Park. This 100 percent pansa blanca (as
xarello is known in Alella) has rich, ripe apricot and peach flavors, along with notes of red
apples and a slight touch of oxidation. That
generous diversity of aromas, as well as the
pointedly firm bubbles, set this up for grilled
scallops. § Avant-Garde Wine & Spirits, NY
222508

92 | Gramona

$193

2001 Cava Enoteca Brut Nature ^ The three
top selections from Gramona-Celler Batlle,
III Lustros and this Enoteca-come from the
sandy, calcareous soils of La Plana; all are 75
percent xarello blended with macabeo. The
difference is in the aging "en rima"-in contact with the lees. Enoteca ages the longest,
at least 14 years. That long stay in bottle has
given a character that goes beyond fruit and

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Wine&Spirits
58

WINE & SPIRITS

into pastry, butter, nuts, brioche and earthy
hints of mushrooms. The bubble has a delicacy that is rarely found in Cava and the end
leaves a creamy yet fruity sensation. § European Cellars, Charlotte, NC

AUGUST 2017

90 | Villa Conchi

$17

89 | Marqués de Gelida

$19

Cava Brut Seleccion (Best Buy) ^ There is a
creaminess not only in the texture, but also
in the aromas and flavors of this wine, like
the scent of peach melba. Delicious in its ripe
white fruit, this wine's bubbles emphasize
that feeling of softness in its round texture. §
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, Harrison, NY
221232
2012 Cava Brut Gran Reserva (Best Buy) ^
Showing a rich minerality, interspersed with
flavors of lime and quince, this feels vital,
vibrant, ideal to accompany salmon sashimi. §
Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA

221563

92 | Parxet

$25

2011 Cava Brut Titiana Pansa Blanca (Best
Buy) ^ Parxet is one of the oldest and most
traditional wineries in Catalonia, and it's the
most famous in the small D.O. Alella, north
of Barcelona. Its Cavas are notable for their
elegance and balance. This 100 percent pansa
blanca (aka xarello) has a rich, creamy feel,
decorated by spices and notes of ripe fruit.
The texture stands out for its softness, but
also for the way it sustains the acidity, mixing it subtly between the bubbles. A great
choice for clam chowder. § Biagio Cru and
Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY
222509

91 | Gramona

$49

91 | Llopart

$38

2009 Cava Gran Reserva Ill Lustros ^ Brut
Nature Ill Lustros grows at a 12-acre vineyard of xarello and macabeo planted on
sandy, calcareous soils. Gramona ages this
wine for seven years on the lees, allowing
it to develop a touch of oxidation reminiscent of green apples and nuts. Its flavors are
intense, with a delicious and complex evolution, while acidity holds it firm. § European
Cellars, Charlotte, NC
221227
2011 Cava Gran Reserva Leopardi Brut
Nature ^ After 48 months in contact with
the lees, this still feels youthful, from the
impetuous bubbles to the penetrating acidity that refreshes everything in its path. And
the lush flavors of limes and green apples. A
cava that's full of life, for grilled lobster tail. §
Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA
222506

90 | Gramona

$30

2011 Cava Gran Reserva Imperial Brut ^
Balancing ripe white fruit, notes of spice
and light mineral touches, this delivers a lot
of force, the flavors clearly delineated by a
the wine's bubbles. Everything seems to be
in place to make the mouth water. § European
Cellars, Charlotte, NC
221639

221561

89 | Parxet

$22

2014 Cava Brut Reserva (Best Buy) ^ Soft
honey notes are the gateway to this Cava's
charm, the fruit scents melding with spices,
the bubbles adding sharpness to the texture,
not aggressive, but refreshing. A simple sparkling wine for grilled soft-shell crabs. § Biagio
Cru and Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY

E STATE BOTTLED · MÉTODO TRADICIONAL

221477

89 | Segura Viudas

$15

88 | Giró del Gorner

$25

Cava Reserva Gran Cuvée Brut (Best Buy) ^
The delicious green apple flavors of this wine
hide more delicate scents of lime, spice and
fresh herbs. It's simple and juicy, with a thin
line of bubbles to refresh a salade niçoise. §
Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA
221535
2007 Cava Gran Reserva Brut (Best Buy) ^
With oxidative touches and layered flavors of
green apples and spices, this wine has enough
body for sea urchin sashimi. § Cuddihy Wine
Importers, Lafayette, CA
http://www.biagiocru.com/index.html http://www.biagiocru.com/index.html https://www.seguraviudasusa.com/
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