Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 71

YEAR'S BEST GREEK WINES
87 | Antonopoulos

$15

2016 Achaia Adoli Ghis (Best Buy) ^ A blend
of the rare lagorthi with a little asproudes,
this is a delicate white focused on lime pith
and chalk. There's not quite enough flavor to
balance the alcohol, which comes through as
heat, so give it a chill and serve it with food.
It would match mussels in vinaigrette. § Verity
Wine Partners, NY
222627

85 | Domain Mega Spileo

223514

90 | Monemvasia

$16

2016 Laconia NA ^ Made from the local
monemvasia, one of the grapes thought to
have made up the original blend for the wine
called Monemvasia (or Malmsey), this fills in
its broad, waxy texture with succulent flavors
of white peach and quince. Herbal notes flirt
with the acidity, adding delicacy as well as an
edge that will help this stand up to halibut
or other rich, meaty fish. § Flying Olive Farms,
Raleigh, NC
222893

90 | Domaine Spiropoulos

$23

2016 Mantinia Moschofilero ^ Made entirely
from the estate's organically farmed vineyards, this is a rich, concentrated moschofilero. It reflects the variety's pale purple skins
in its slight pink tinge, and draws out a host
of floral and spice notes without extracting
any phenolic bitterness. The result is fragrant
and elegant, with a slightly oily intensity. The
orange-citrus notes would be especially good
next to grilled mackerel. § Athenee Importers
& Distributors, Hempstead, NY
223286

88 | Antonopoulos

$20

2016 Achaia Malagouzia (Best Buy) ^ Grown
in the cool heights of Achaia, on the northern edge of the Peloponnese, this is soft and
peachy, with a breezy florality that lifts the
wine and keeps it refreshing. § Verity Wine
Partners, NY
222626

88 | Domain Mega Spileo

$13

2016 Achaia Moschato (Best Buy) ^ A soft,
herbal muscat, this combines green-olive
fruitiness with light floral notes. It's earthy
and round, for goat cheese rolled in pine nuts
and herbs. § Greek Boys Choice Foods, Tarpon
Springs, FL
222571

88 | Skouras

$18

2016 Peloponnese Moschofilero (Best
Buy) ^ Light and delicate, this flits through
the mouth with notes of Meyer lemon and
lime leaves, a little chalky minerality giving it
some weight. For aperitifs. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL
223284

$13

2016 Achaia Malagousia (Best Buy) ^ This
is ripe and a little hot, with the spice of alcohol heating the peachy fruit. Give it a chill
to bring out its leaner citrus notes and rein
in the spice. § Greek Boys Choice Foods, Tarpon
Springs, FL

R OSÉ
222659

90 | Kir-Yianni

$17

2016 Amyndeon Akakies Rosé (Best Buy) ^
With its dark hue and tangy, spicy flavors,
this offers a clear view of xinomavro in a juicy,
friendly rosé. It tastes of strawberries along
with a little of their leaves; it feels full and
firm, the fine grape-skin tannins building
body into the wine without any astringency.
Give it a light chill for grilled lamb this summer. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL

IS L A ND REDS
CRETE
222562

87 | Alexakis

$15

2013 Crete Kotsifali-Syrah (Best Buy) ^
Syrah sends a wave of sweet red fruit over
kotsifali's herbal tones and wilder flavors,
this blend tamed by the chocolate richness of
barrel age. It's juicy and fresh, a modern wine
for burgers. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL

SANTORINI
223335

90 | Santo Wines

$49

2015 Santorini Mavrotragano ^ Mavrotragano translates as "black-crunchy," two characteristics of this red. It tastes of wild cherries,
the flavors concentrated and intense, with a
smoky, earthy mineral sense that darkens the
flavors without adding extra weight. As only
about three percent of the island is planted
to this grape, there's very little of this wine;
if you find one of the 3,300 bottles, check it
out. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL

MAINL AND REDS
CENTRAL GREECE
222486

92 | Domaine Katsaros

$46

2010 Krania Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Evripidis
Katsaros studied in Bordeaux before returning to his family's winery in northern Greece.
Although the environment is very different-he's working at 2,460 feet in altitude, in
the forested hills beneath Mount Olympus-
this wine has a Bordelais restraint and elegance despite its rich fruit. Cofermented with
a little merlot in stainless-steel tanks before
aging in barriques for 16 to 22 months, this
cabernet feels firm and earthy, with a blackolive note deepening cabernet's cassis tones.
The tannins still hold significant power, suggesting that this will age well for another five
to eight years. § Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY

MACEDONIA
223283

91 | Karanika

$35

91 | Ktima Voyatzi

$27

90 | Ktima Voyatzi

$27

90 | Kir-Yianni

$18

2013 Amyndeon Xinomavro ^ Based in the
cool heights of Amyndeon, Laurens Hartman farms biodynamically and makes a delicate xinomavro even in warm years like 2013.
This smells and tastes of roses and tobacco,
cedar fronds and ripe red cherries, with a
crispness underlined by the metallic twang
of the tannins. It's an elegant match for lean
meats like venison. § Verity Wine Partners, NY
221385
2013 Velvento Xinomavro ^ Yannis Voyatzis,
oenologist for Boutari, makes this wine from
his family estate in Velvento, an area south
of Naoussa along Lake Polifitou. It's warmer
here than in Naoussa, a detail apparent in the
steaky richness of this wine. It feels dense and
burled, with grilled meat flavors and chocolate tannins; with time, the acidity sends
xinomavro's herbal notes to the fore, tomatoleaf and sage scents bringing a savory freshness to the wine. § Nestor Imports, NY
221386
2014 Velvento Tsapournakos ^ Tsapournakos
is genetically identical to cabernet franc, yet
it has its own distinct personality in Velvento.
This vintage is ripe and rich, an earthy, spicy
red with coffee and bay-leaf notes wrapped
in velvet-soft tannins. The acidity is quiet but
brisk; give the wine a light chill and serve it
with lamb chops. § Nestor Imports, NY
223265
2014 Imathia Yianakohori Hills (Best
Buy) ^ Hail destroyed so many of the vines at
Yianakohori in 2014 that the winery chose
WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2017

71


http://www.flyingolivefarms.com/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2017 - Cover4
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