Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 21
Breaking
the
Code
How to Parse the Wine List
by David Lynch
Over the course of some 15 years as a sommelier in restaurants, I've gleaned considerable insight into the "architecture" of a good wine list. The selections should communicate a recognizable point of view. They should, of course, make sense with the food
being served. They should offer value (although that's a thornier discussion, and one
that's more about mechanics than architecture). And, given the economic realities of
running a restaurant these days, the wine selections are likely to favor concision over
breadth. When you go to a serious restaurant with an in-house sommelier, it's fairly safe
to assume there are no "bad" wines on the list, but you still have to make a choice at
some point. How to make the best one?
When I go out, I try to game the system by scanning the list in search of clues. If I see any
clear regional or stylistic biases, I'm intrigued, because maybe that's what the sommelier
is most passionate about (and where the best values can be found). Of course, anything
unfamiliar in my price range is catnip, as are underpriced classics from "lesser" vintages,
or lower-tier wines from the bluest-chip producers. As both an author and reader of wine
lists, I have my own ideas of what works, but there are a lot of thoughtful sommeliers out
there from whom we can all learn. I spoke to three great ones to get further insight into
the restaurant wine experience and how to maximize it regardless of list type. Perhaps
not surprisingly, it starts with trust.
WINE & SPIRITS
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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover4
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