Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 78

TO PAGE

If/then: Cabernet Sauvignon/Elegant
XX FOR
MORE

Château
Léoville-LasCases 2014
St-Julien
($160)

TURN THE PAGE FOR
RIPER STYLES

ELEGANT OR RIPE?
If you want classic cabernet sauvignon from Bordeaux, look to the tops of
the gravel bars, the washes of stones that rise up along the Gironde in the
Médoc. Léoville-Las-Cases is among the most prominent of these knolls, at
the border with Pauillac. Piled deep with river stones over sandy gravel, the
soil allows the rain from coastal storms to drain quickly, retaining enough
moisture in the interstices for the vines to ripen the grapes. Jean-Hubert
Delon produces impeccable wines, including this 2014, a vintage that
offers the classic elegance of Bordeaux in its succulent, savory dark fruit
and the firm feel of the tannins (think cedar and pencil lead). * Cabernet
sauvignon grown in the fog-cooled desert of Napa Valley is often riper-the
higher levels of sugar in the fruit ferments into higher levels of alcohol. That
alcohol extracts more tannins from the oak barrels in which the wine ages,
combining in a style that feels bigger, richer, darker and sweeter. Geneviève
Janssens selected the fruit for this Reserve from her favored blocks at To
Kalon, a well-drained, rocky site in western Oakville that produces some of
the region's top cabernets.

START
HERE FOR
ELEGANT
STYLES

FROM BRIGHT TO DARK

Robert
Mondavi
Winery 2013
Oakville Napa
Valley To Kalon
Reserve
Cabernet
Sauvignon
($155)

Le Macchiole
2013 Toscana
Paleo Rosso
($110)

If the elegance of Las-Cases appeals to you, you might consider cabernet
from another coastal region, Bolgheri, in Tuscany, whether you choose
Sassicaia, based on cabernet sauvignon from a stony rise off the
Mediterranean at Tenuta San Guido, or Paleo Rosso, based on cabernet
franc from the gravelly soils at Le Macchiole. The briskness of the sea comes
across in the Paleo 2013, the red fruit flavors brightened by scents of green
peppercorn. It has the polish of Las-Cases, presented in a lighter frame. * If
it's the savory richness you appreciate in Las-Cases, you'll find more of that
in a Right Bank Bordeaux. Lassègue, grown on a limestone hillside just outside of the town of St-Emilion, blends merlot with cabernets franc and sauvignon (in 2010, it's 65 percent merlot). This is fleshy and plush, its savory
flavors emphasizing the pencil-lead tannins that might remind you of LasCases, here with more bitter chocolate flavor.
Château
Lassègue 2010
St-Emilion
Grand Cru
($75)
78

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2017 - Cover4
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