Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 105

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
zewski learned to identify sexy wine, and now
they are making it, from ancient, own-rooted
grenache vines growing in the sands of Vine
Vale. They ferment it with some whole clusters, then age it in older French oak, producing a light, frisky red with flavors that seem
to build vertically rather than laying out flat.
The taut cherry and strawberry flavors are
not particularly complex, but they are fresh
and refreshing, friendly and giving. § Grand
Cru Selections, NY
121127
120384

90 | Lambert Estate

$50

90 | Cape Mentelle

$72

2012 Barossa Valley Silent Partner Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Broad, rich and luscious,
this wine shows some mint and vanilla highlights over its spicy red fruit. Acidity keeps
it tense, allowing the generous fruit to show
some complexity and depth. For a steak. §
Ausa Pacific, Calistoga, CA
120936
2013 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon ^ A tight, austere cabernet from Australia's western coast, this needs plenty of air
to show itself. If you open and drink it now,
you'll have a tough, green pepper-scented
red. If you decant it and leave it for six or
eight hours, you'll come back to a lovely,
juicy wine, still austere in its tannins, but
now woodsy rather than vegetal, with the
refreshing scent of the jarrah forests of Margaret River. § Moët Hennessy USA, NY
121090

89 | Xanadu

$20

88 | Schild Estate

$20

2014 Margaret River DJL Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ A tangy cabernet with
black currant and eucalyptus scents, this is
gentle, round and sappy. Cabernet's herbal
pyrazine notes are barely noticeable, melding into the chocolate richness of the texture.
Pour it with slow-smoked beef ribs. § Rathbone
Wine Group, Napa, CA
120603
2014 Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
(Best Buy) ^ Spicy and intense, this wine's
flavor depth is perked up by some volatile
acidity, lending it the profile of an old-school
Amarone. The tannins carry that tart edge,
surrounding rich, smoky notes of beef broth
and figgy fruit. For braised beef. § USA Wine
West, Sausalito, CA

GRENACHE
120629

93 | An Approach
to Relaxation

$55

2015 Barossa Valley Sucette Grenache ^ As
sommeliers, Richard Betts and Carla Rzes-

92 | Tim Smith Wines

$23

91 | Langmeil

$53

2015 Barossa Valley Bugalugs Grenache
(Best Buy) ^ The color might seem delicate,
but this grenache packs a lot of flavor within
its tight, narrow structure. Those flavors are
intriguing and joyously bright, ranging from
strawberry red to anise, completely savory
and youthfully tense. Decant this for a fresh,
friendly, delicious red that will bring you
back to summer all year long. § Little Peacock
Imports, Wilmington, DE
120841
2015 Barossa The Fifth Wave Grenache ^
Bright red strawberry scents and flavors
fill this refreshing grenache, a blend from
35-year-old vines that aged in older French
oak. It's fresh and floral, light and spicy, lasting on red fruit and the tarry scent of a railroad tie. Serve it slightly chilled with grilled
chopped sirloin burgers. § Negociants USA,
Napa, CA
120796

90 | Kilikanoon

$120

2013 Clare Valley Kelly 1932 Grenache ^
Kilikanoon started working with this vineyard east of Sevenhill in 2012, when the bush
vines had just turned 80. In the warm 2013
season, the pure red fruit of grenache meets
tarry scents, as well as the pointedly green,
eucalyptus forest scents that mark it as coming from a high-elevation site. That colorful
spectrum of flavors narrows to a red glow in
the finish, hinting at freshness, lasting with
complexity. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

It's light in weight, spicy and bright, all about
grilled Greek lamb. § Hudson Wine Brokers, Los
Angeles, CA

PINOT NOIR
120854

92 | Dalrymple

$65

2014 Pipers River Cottage Block Pinot
Noir ^ Tight, lean and persistent, this wine is
packed with a rainbow of crunchy berry flavors-the deep purple of black raspberries,
the translucent red of currants, the green
hue of sour plums. Oak is present, but the
fruit is so bright and fresh, the wood does
nothing to diminish its clarity. There's something slightly technical about this wine, precise rather than emotive, which makes it a
no-nonsense pinot noir to age. § Negociants
USA, Napa, CA

120866

92 | Giant Steps

$42

2016 Yarra Valley Applejack Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ This east-facing vineyard captures the cool morning sun, the climate further tempered by its elevation, at 1,000 feet.
It's the silkiest and most transparent of Giant
Step's 2016 pinots, the sense of complexity
and weightlessness heightened, perhaps, by
60 percent whole-bunches in the fermentation. Smoky, with notes of rye over the hightoned cherry flavors, this has tension that
lasts. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

NERO D'AVOL A
120987

92 | Brash Higgins

$42

2015 McLaren Vale Nero d'Avola ^ Brad
Hickey, a former wine director at Bouley
in NYC, is now growing drought-resistant
nero d'avola in McLaren Vale, harvesting it
just this side of ripeness, then fermenting
and aging it in locally made beeswax-lined
amphorae. As unlikely as that may sound, it's
a recipe for a brilliant young red wine, coming at you with the scent of a sachet of herbs,
tart red fruit and, perhaps, a hint of beeswax.

120776

91 | Innocent Bystander

$20

2016 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
This is the last vintage Steve Flamsteed's
team made for Innocent Bystander, after Phil
Sexton sold the brand to Brown Brothers. It's
a lovely gift to the new owners, a simple pinot
noir with a luscious texture and tight, tense,
WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

105


http://www.lambertestate.com/wines/premium/silent-partner/ http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/giant-steps/ http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/innocent-bystander/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 28
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 51
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 54
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 58
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 97
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 100
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 101
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 103
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 104
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 105
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 106
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 107
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 109
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 110
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 112
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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