Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 106

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
floral, spicy drive. The light green-peppercorn scent makes it an ideal match for charcuterie. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
120833

90 | Kooyong

$32

2016 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir ^ Here's a simple, red-fruited pinot noir that leaves the
mouth salivating, a brisk wine that sets you
up for food. There are touches of herbs, eucalyptus and barnyard notes, but they are subtle and don't get in the way of the appetiteinducing freshness. § Hudson Wine Brokers, Los
Angeles, CA
120767

90 | Ninth Island

$25

2015 Tasmania Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^ As
crunchy as Tasmanian pinot can be, this wine
starts out reduced, all stinky strawberry-red
fruit and rocky mineral tannins. It plumps
up with air, still markedly fresh, with pink
grapefruit and pomegranate notes alongside
plenty of spice-from black pepper to cardamom and mace. Decant it for fish braised
in red wine. § Little Peacock Imports, Wilmington, DE
121087

90 | Yering Station

$20

2015 Yarra Valley Village Pinot Noir (Best
Buy) ^ Blue fruit shows the luscious side of this
pinot noir, even as tight tannins lend it definition, and acidity provides strawberry-leaf
notes. It's warm and spicy, for turkey sausages off the grill. § Rathbone Wine Group,
Napa, CA

Rutherglen Tokay (Best Buy) ^ Warm
and inviting with its satin-textured grace,
this presents fresh scents of apricots and
bananas. A powerful dessert wine to serve
with bananas Foster. § The Winebow Group, NY
121016

92 | d'Arenberg

120930

96 | Chambers Rosewood
Vineyards
$350/375ml

Rutherglen Rare Muscat ^ Stephen Chambers, the sixth-generation winemaker at this
family firm, releases his Rare wines from
stocks that are more than a century old.
This muscat coats the glass in its almost
black mahogany color, just as one small sip
completely saturates the palate, a layer of
darkness allowing only glints of flavor to get
through, even as those flavors have intensity
and energy. You might taste it as salt, iodine
and figs if you try to break it into components, or you might taste it as time revealed
through light, a canvas as complex as the
night sky with no moonlight to soften the
detail of the distant stars. § Old Bridge Cellars,
Napa, CA
120931

95 | Chambers Rosewood
Vineyards
$350/375ml

Rutherglen Rare Muscadelle ^ As old as the
Rare Muscat (recommended above), this is
powerfully concentrated but not as super
dense. It keeps juicing up with flavors, layering plum pudding, complex mineral notes,
smoke and the scent of old leather. The flavors seem to last for minutes after each sip,
the complexity of the scent continually shifting shape even long after the liquid is gone. §
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
120935

94 | Chambers Rosewood
Vineyards
$100/375ml

120791

88 | Shoofly

$14

2015 Victoria Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^ A light
and frisky pinot noir, this wine's bright fruit
has some herbal edges. It's simple and delicious, a clean, light red for roast fish with
mushrooms. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

106

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

since the early 20th century. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
120740

92 | Campbells Wines $17/375ml

$38

2015 Mornington Peninsula Massale
Pinot Noir ^ As light and fresh as it is sweet
with candied cherry and caramelized flavors,
this has an herbal, tobacco-like spice to keep
that sweetness in check. The tannins are substantial but gentle, the fruit clean and soft.
Decant it for rare prime rib. § Negociants USA,
Napa, CA
120993

90 | Mac Forbes

A USTRALIA DESSERT

Rutherglen Grand Muscat ^ There's no getting around the fact that this wine is sweet,
a huge wave of sugar that might knock you
over, even as the texture provides a down pillow of softness to cradle your fall. It would
be hard not to fall for this wine, scented in
a complex array of gingerbread, graham
cracker, orange pekoe tea and jasmine.
It's plump in the middle, lasting on grapescented sweetness, with a fascinating crushed
mineral structure holding that sweetness and
making it profound. The Chambers family
blends this from stocks they have maintained

$20/375ml

2016 McLaren Vale The Noble Wrinkled
Riesling (Best Buy) ^ This fragrant dessertstyle riesling holds its briskness and seaside
saltiness even as the baked green apple flavors and caramelized sweetness accelerate
into the finish. Chill it for almond biscotti. §
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

120745

91 | d'Arenberg

$20/375ml

2015 Adelaide Hills The Noble Botryotinia Fuckeliana Semillon-Sauvignon
Blanc (Best Buy) ^ Mostly semillon (95 percent), this platinum-blond beauty carries a
wallop of sugar. With notes of candied orange
peel and orange bitters, it manages to tame
that sweetness into a firm cushion of richness. Pour it as you would a Sauternes, with
seared foie gras. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
120932

88 | Chambers Rosewood
Vineyards
$16/375ml

Rutherglen Muscat (Best Buy) ^ "So, I love
coffee cake," W&S Tasting Director Sarah
Looper announced when she tasted this
wine. "And this is like liquid coffee cake-
dense crumb, a dense pound-cakey quality,
apricots, brown sugar, dates..." It's warm and
friendly wine, a blend of six- to ten-year-old
stocks, with enough orange-like acidity to
keep the sweetness in check. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

C HILE WHITE
121117

94 | Maturana Wines

$20

2017 Colchagua Valley Semillon ^ A semillon fermented with its skins, this comes from
Paredones, close to the Colchagua coast.


http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/chambers/ http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/darenberg/ http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/shoofly/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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