Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 39

14. Cadet
Colleen Fleming and Aubrey Bailey's downtown Napa wine bar has
become a winemaker hangout,
thanks to a by-the-glass list that
mixes old-school California wines
(Ridge Cabernet), wine-geek specialties (Olga Raffault Chinon) and easygoing quaffables (Txakoli rosé). For
food, there's prosciutto and other
charcuterie sliced to order, along
with a rotating selection of French
and California cheeses. -E.C.B.
930 Franklin St. (Napa); 707-2244400, cadetbeerandwinebar.com

photo of Cala by Chloe List

16. Chez Panisse
Any American restaurant that uses
words like "farm to table" or "sustainable" has Chez Panisse in its genes. The
same goes for "seasonal." A dish like
local quail with fried green tomatoes
and creamed corn captures summer
on a plate. Jonathan Waters (no relation to chef Alice Waters) selects wines
made with the same care given to the
food, from by-the-glass house staples
like Tempier Bandol Rosé and Green
& Red Zin to Rhône legends like Clape
Cornas and Vieux Télégraphe. -B.H.
1517 Shattuck Ave. (Berkeley);
510-548-5525, chezpanisse.com

18. The Corner
Less than a year old, The Corner
opened with a cellar to compete
against Napa Valley's three-star
Michelins. Trevor Sheehan runs the
wine list, indulging his obsessions with
Burgundy, Champagne, old California
and whiskey; Dustin Falcon is in the
kitchen, turning out the sort of precise,
seasonally driven food you'd expect
from a Thomas Keller protégé. Stop
in for a drink at the boisterous bar, or
move into the more subdued dining
room for a full-blown meal; either way,
don't miss the pork pastrami toast. If
you can't linger, however, know that all
1,000 selections on the wine list are
available to go. -J.W.
660 Main St. (Napa); 707-927-5552,
thecornernapa.com

15. Cala
In a converted Hayes Valley garage,
Mexico City-born chef Gabriela
Cámara turns out vividly flavored Mexican food, often seafood-driven-think
halibut ceviche with fennel, daikon
radish and jalapeños. And Lauren
Feldman's tight wine list is clearly chosen with Cámara's food in mind. The
smokiness of the chipotle-laced trout
tostadas sings with Vini della Staffa's
sparkling sangiovese, and Jolie-Laide's
gamay from the Sierra Foothills shimmers with just about anything on the
menu. -D.F.
149 Fell St.; 415-660-7701,
calarestaurant.com
17. Cotogna
With its roaring open-fire grill and wood oven, this Italian taverna is more rustic than Quince, its formal sibling next door. The
wine list is succinct, all-Italian and all priced below $100, though you can also order from Quince's 950-bottle cellar. Whatever you do, order some of the toothsome pasta, like raviolo filled with ricotta and a runny egg yolk, or taglierini with spicy
Dungeness crab and toasted breadcrumbs. -D.F.
490 Pacific Ave.; 415-775-8508, cotognasf.com

19. The Charter Oak
Chef Christopher Kostow and restaurant
director Nathaniel Dorn, of the threeMichelin-starred Restaurant at Meadowood,
opened Charter Oak in Napa this past May.
It coalesces around a massive wood-fired
hearth, where Kostow's menu incorporates but doesn't binge on smoke and ash.
Often, vegetables take star turns, as in
the coal-roasted cabbage with clams, and
charred avocado with rhubarb and ember
oil. Dorn built a Napa Valley-only wine list
that's wide and deep, then turned it over
to Douglas Kahn, a W&S Best New Sommelier of 2017. The list does a deft job
balancing new-wave stars like Ferdinand
Albariño with cellar curios like 1971 Inglenook Charbono. A serious bar program
offers 50 scripted cocktails, new and classic, and an all-California beer card. Tables
in the expansive, tree-shaded courtyard
are reserved for walk-ins. -J.M.
1050 Charter Oak Ave. (St. Helena);
707-302-6996, thecharteroak.com

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

39


http://www.cadetbeerandwinebar.com http://www.calarestaurant.com http://www.cotognasf.com http://www.chezpanisse.com http://www.thecharteroak.com http://www.thecornernapa.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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