Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40

22. Great China
For 30 years, Great China has been the
Berkeley destination for Peking duck
and top-notch northern Chinese cuisine. The secret was always that the
cramped restaurant had a solid wine
list if you knew whom to ask. After a
fire gutted the restaurant in 2012, the
family moved to a nearby corner where
they built out an airy space brimming
with large round tables full of families or
Chinese students from the nearby Cal
campus sharing platters of crab and
steamed buns, duck-bone soup and
Chinese greens. The food has continued to evolve, too, with new dishes and
more refined Shandong flavors. And the
secret list is no longer a secret. James
Yu, the second-generation owner, along
with Mark Yatabe, rebuilt the now
700-bottle list. In addition to rieslings
and California pinot selections, the core
of the list is Burgundy, from Mâconnais to Côte d'Or grand cru, often at
prices barely above retail. This is the
place to bring a group, order a bottle
from Coche-Dury, Ramonet or Anne
Gros, and ask Yu to create a menu for
the wine: It might be the duck, thricecooked pork belly, and crab on a bed of
noodles, or the restaurant's signature
"double skin" appetizer. -B.H.
2190 Bancroft Way (Berkeley);
510-843-7996, greatchinaberkeley.com

20. Foreign Cinema
Gayle Pirie and John Clarke
took over Foreign Cinema
in 2001, two years after it
opened, and on most nights
one of them can still be found
on premises, making sure
everything's running smoothly.
Stop in for a glass of bubbles
and some oysters or sit down
for one of the city's best renditions of fried chicken. There's
always a film playing in the
central courtyard, and there's
always something good to
drink, whether a cocktail at
the attached Laszlo bar, or one
of many chenins on Shannon
Tucker's Loire-heavy wine list.
-L.S.
2534 Mission St.;
415-648-7600,
foreigncinema.com

21. High Treason
This wine bar from Michael Ireland and
John Vuong-both former fine-dining
sommeliers-is a much-needed addition to SF's Richmond District, long
a wine desert. Ireland's collection of
punk, electronic and hip-hop records
creates a playlist that mirrors the adventurous wines, from savory Hervé Villemade Cour-Cheverny to Valdespino's
rich Viejo C.P. Palo Cortado. -L.S.
443 Clement St.; 415-742-5252,
hightreasonsf.com

23. Heirloom Café
Owner Matt Strauss based the wine list at Heirloom Café on his own collection of
properly aged gems, which range from back vintages of Domaine de la Pépière
Muscadet to Hanzell pinot noirs from the 1970s and '80s. The food is simple and
unpretentious, served in a setting that looks like the dining room of a Victorian
farmhouse, Dixieland jazz playing in the background. Strauss encourages guests to
bring in older wine, offering $10 corkage on bottles at least ten years old. -L.S.
2500 Folsom St.; 415-821-2500, heirloom-sf.com
40

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

24. Hillside Supper Club
With its Craftsman aesthetic, chalkboard menu and Mason jar-encased
light bulbs, Hillside Supper Club is a
casual Bernal Heights spot offering elevated takes on farmhouse fare. Austin
Ferrari handles the wines, and places
coveted crus from Coche-Dury side by
side with $40 bottles, like the Broc
Cellars sparkling rosé; some of the
dishes, meanwhile, stray well beyond
the farmhouse conceit, like cuttlefish
"noodles" with romesco sauce, agretti
and smoked oyster aioli. -D.F.
300 Precita Ave.; 415-285-6005,
hillsidesupperclub.com

25. La Ciccia
Thanks to Massimiliano Conti's Sardinian food and the hospitality of his
wife, Lorella Degan, La Ciccia emanates warmth. Ask for a recommendation rather than trying to navigate the
wealth of Sardinian wines yourself-
perhaps you'll end up with a refreshing, stone-fruited semidano with the
spicy baby-octopus stew, or spaghetti
with bottarga alongside a passito-style
moscadeddu from Dettori. -D.F.
291 30th St.; 415-550-8114,
laciccia.com


http://www.foreigncinema.com http://www.greatchinaberkeley.com http://www.hightreasonsf.com http://www.hillsidesupperclub.com http://www.heirloom-sf.com http://www.laciccia.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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