Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41

26. Liholiho Yacht Club
Chef Ravi Kapur, from Hawaii via Boulevard and Prospect, works magic in the
open kitchen at Liholiho, turning out
umami-rich dishes like tongue, kimchi
and pickles in a poppy seed-encrusted
bun, or beef carpaccio and crispy fried
oysters. They sing with the eclectic
wine list, rich in classic aromatic whites
from Italy, Germany and Alsace, as well
as esoterica like Ravines Riesling from
the Finger Lakes, Sandlands Trousseau from Sonoma and Eszterbauer
Kadarka from Hungary. -B.H.
871 Sutter St.; 415-440-5446,
liholihoyachtclub.com

27. Miminashi
Miminashi is wine-nerd heaven: Of
the 100 or so bottles Jessica Pinzon
DiFede lists, nearly 30 are riesling or
Champagne. She finds that they pair
particularly well with the food offered
by her husband and partner, Curtis
DiFede: precise and inventive izakaya
dishes honed through ongoing studies
in Japan. Pro tip: The shaved cabbage
salad with umeboshi dressing, seasonal fried rice and yakitori are musts-
as is the soft-serve ice cream available
to go from the walk-up window. -J.W.
821 Coombs St. (Napa); 707-254-9464,
miminashi.com

photo of Liholiho Yacht Club by Shannon McLean; Mister Jiu's by Kassie Barrenson; The Morris by Kelly Puleio

28. Mister Jiu's
Chef Brandon Jew transforms flavors
and textures you may have encountered before at a Chinese restaurant
into singular dishes, like an ethereal,
silken crab custard topped with crabmeat and accented with a few shavings
of pickled carrot. Mister Jiu's wine director, John Herbstritt, heads toward European wines with abundant acid and
minimal tannins, a fine counterpoint to
the umami-dominant cuisine. -B.H.
28 Waverly Pl.; 415-857-9688,
misterjius.com

29. The Morris
While running the wine program for Melissa Perello at Frances
and joining Daniel Patterson as a partner at Coi, SF sommelier and all-around wine geek Paul Einbund began planning
his own restaurant, stocking up wines over time. Earlier this
year, he opened The Morris, a showcase for his many finds. His
obsession with vintage Madeira and aged bottles of Chartreuse
is front and center, while the table wines lean toward French
classics, especially Chablis, the Côte d'Or, the Loire and the
northern Rhône. A bottle of 2010 Dauvissat Chablis provides
a clarion counterpoint to seafood-based small plates, and
one of his more recent discoveries-the floral, delicate 2014
Babylone St-Joseph from Julien Cécillon-is perfect with chef
Gavin Schmidt's meltingly tender smoked Muscovy duck. But
before you get to all of that, you might start with a "Chartreuse
smoothie." Its bracing herb-and-citrus chill makes a great aperitif, and is as whimsical as the wine list is serious. -L.S.
2501 Mariposa St.; 415-612-8480, themorris-sf.com

30. Nopa
In 2006, Nopa came onto the scene as a red-hot farm-to-table restaurant that energized an entire neighborhood. Amazingly, it's still a hard-to-get reservation. Chef Laurence Jossel and crew turn out rustic dishes made with great, often local
ingredients-from fried duck wings with peach jam to a simple but legendary dish of wood-baked butter beans-while
wine director Dennis Cantwell's list accommodates a wide swath of flavors and textures, including Calabretta's Etna
Rosato and a smattering of Jura whites. -B.H.
560 Divisadero St.; 415-864-8643, nopasf.com

31. Octavia
Like Frances, Melissa Perello's Castro
restaurant Octavia feels comfortable
and unassuming, with wooden tables
and little in the way of décor. Start with
cold squid-ink noodles with bottarga,
a salty and primal introduction to the
purity of her cooking. Joshua Thomas's
wine list boasts a modest but smart
collection of Burgundies, with plenty
of options for those who can't afford
Volnay, from Moric blaufränkisch and
Montlouis to new discoveries like Skinner mourvedre from California's Sierra
Foothills. -L.S.
1701 Octavia St.; 415-408-7507,
octavia-sf.com

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

41


http://www.liholihoyachtclub.com http://www.miminashi.com http://www.misterjius.com http://www.themorris-sf.com http://www.octavia-sf.com http://www.nopasf.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 45
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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