Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57

by the yeast [during fermen"It isn't technically in the
tation], so it is more likely to
same sub-AVA," says Landon,
be tasted and not as well intebut "the South Salem Hills are
grated structurally in the final
essentially an extension of the
Eola-Amity Hills in terms of
wine. It is very important to me
structure and climate. The centhat we make Oregon wine."
For Savre, choosing sites that
tral Willamette Valley has a lot of
naturally retain higher acidity
shallow soil, and cooler microclimate sites." The cooler temperain the grapes helps him accomtures are thanks, partially, to the
plish that goal.
Van Duzer Corridor.
"Bunker Hill is like a gift
The Van Duzer Corridor, a
from somewhere," says Savre.
low spot in the coastal range
And it is a sort of miracle. The
that pulls in cooling winds
site planted, and even mainfrom the Pacific Ocean, impacts
tained for more than 20 years,
Thomas Savre
the climate of the entire Willaas a mere hobby, without even
mette Valley but it most directly
a specific interest in the variety
impacts the central Willamette Valley, where evening planted, turns out to be one of the region's iconic
temperatures are consistently ten degrees colder at vineyards, only just recognized. "The wine is really
delicious."
night than in the northern Willamette Valley. And
Stone describes the wine from Bunker Hill as havsince the wind is more direct, daily afternoon gusts
average 10 to 15 miles per hour through much of the ing "layers of mineral complexity, full of very intense
central Willamette. Studies have shown that, when flavor on the palate but like air. It has lots of presence
winds reach eight miles per hour, stomata on vine
but is ethereal, elevated. It has fruit but it floats."
leaves close, slowing the vines' respiration of acid- Landon, too, describes the site as making wines that
ity. Slower respiration means better acid retention are utterly distinctive.
in the fruit.
The area's wind and cooling temperatures also
"We really want to preserve the natural acidity in
result in thicker grape skins, which can give a pleasthe wine," says Thomas Savre, who works alongside ing phenolic frame, even to chardonnay. "That little
Dominique Lafon as winemaker of Lingua Franca.
bit of phenolic presence drives tension in the wine,"
The heightened wind exposure and cooler tempera- says Landon.
tures of the area elongate the growing season, leadFor producers like Walter Scott and Lingua Franca,
ing to wines that ripen at lower alcohol with higher the central Willamette Valley is a region that speaks
of a distinctly Oregon chardonnay, a signature
acidity. The growing conditions change choices in the
cellar. As Savre explains, simply adding acid to rebal- driven by freshness and energy. "There is great acid
retention here from the wind and the diurnal shift,"
ance a wine in the cellar isn't going to give quite the
same outcome as fruit coming in with good natural Landon says. "It's a perfect storm to create wines that
acidity. "Acid adds are not going to be metabolized have more tension and precision." ■

Larry Stone, MS, has planted
chardonnay at LSV in the Eola-
Amity Hills (above); Thomas Savre
serves as winemaker for Lingua
Franca, making chardonnay from
both Bunker Hill and LSV.

WINE & SPIRITS

Larry Stone, MS

OCTOBER 2017

57



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 26
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 51
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 58
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 97
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 100
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 101
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 102
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 103
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 104
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 105
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 106
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 109
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 110
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 112
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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