Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64

YEAR'S BEST US CHARDONNAY
aromas of tamarind pulp and biscuity lees.
Rather than layered, it's crisp and lively, a vividly coastal white to pour with oven-roasted
prawns or whole fish. (W&S 4/17; 48 cases)
507822

88 | Borne

O REG O N

selves but don't overreach. The flavors are
fulsome and elegant at once, and while you
may luxuriate in the texture, its quiet energy
will be the lasting impression. Generous now,
it's built to cellar. (W&S 4/17; 115 cases)
448179

$28

2014 Anderson Valley Mile Marker 33.89
Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ Blending grapes
from Ferrington Vineyard near Booneville
with fruit from Manchester Ridge in the hills
to the west, this is soft and creamy, with a
yellow pear flavor that's simple and enjoyable. There's no overt oak on the wine, and
the acidity's bright. For aperitifs. (389 cases)
507344

88 | La Crema

$23

2015 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (Best
Buy) ^ A golden, ripe chardonnay with coastal
sea-spray tones held in a caramelized framework of new oak, this has a hazelnut-oil richness that will match Dungeness crab.

N E W YO RK
450161

90 | Ravines

$20

2015 Finger Lakes Chardonnay ^ This invigorating chardonnay leads with a gentle,
enveloping lemon-lime scent. Its flavors are
lean, fresh and full of citrusy energy, its crisp
acids bulked out by a breadth of lees, which
gives the wine an umami savor on the finish.
(W&S 8/17; 1,869 cases)

508109

88 | Fox Run

$13

88 | Rooster Hill

$17

94 | Evening Land Vyds.

507842

95 | Bergström

$95

94 | Bergström

$35

2015 Willamette Valley Sigrid Chardonnay ^ Sigrid is Josh Bergström's barrel selection of lots from five biodynamically farmed
estate vineyards, and it's his most dramatic
white wine. In 2015 this chardonnay's shades
of fruit and savor, its layers and textural
breadth are on display, all of it propelled by
an edgy, acid-driven freshness. Initially, the
lees and reduction will take you in a savory
direction, but with air the wine appears to
fill with autumnal light. The flavors of ripe
apple, golden pear and mineral lees become
fuller and more focused, interwoven in what
seems like an intricate, dramatic and, frankly,
gorgeous pattern. (500 cases)
507841
2015 Willamette Valley Old Stones Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ The old stones in question are found on Temperance Hill in the
Eola-Amity Hills, where Bergström sources
this chardonnay. This wine never lacks for
minerality, but it's showing mostly power
and volume at the moment, bold, stylish,
golden fruit, a nutty caramel accent to yeasty,
tarte-tatin flavors. It's not as layered as Sigrid, but thoroughly satisfying, and has the
amplitude for roast chicken. (1,000 cases)

87 | Heron Hill Winery

$15

2015 Finger Lakes Unoaked Chardonnay
(Best Buy) ^ This wine's brisk, lemony fruit
finishes crisp, with a hint of lees-unadorned
chardonnay for aperitifs. (1,091 cases)
64

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

447593

93 | Bryn Mawr Vineyards

$45

93 | Domaine Drouhin

$35

93 | Stoller

$35

2014 Eola-Amity Hills Reserve Chardonnay ^ This savory wine smells of caramel flan,
of bread crust and, eventually, as the leesiness diminishes with air, of warm roasted
pears. It's rich, and yet its structure and texture feel suave and elusive, with a creamy
purity of expression and a seductive, softfocus elegance. (W&S 4/17; 175 cases)
450294
2015 Dundee Hills Arthur Chardonnay ^
As elegant a wine as Oregon can produce,
this 2015 reserve is partly fermented in barrel, partly in tank, then blended in a quiet,
delicate harmony; the oak notes-nutmeg,
vanilla-are recessed, oblique, allowing the
round, supple pear fruit to assume a central
role. The balance here is impressive, the wine
drinkable now and poised for a long cellar
life. (W&S 8/17; 3,300 cases)
507597

2016 Finger Lakes Doyle Family Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ An unoaked chardonnay, this
brisk, lemony white turns richer in the finish with caramel notes of lees. It has enough
depth of flavor to pair with poached chicken.
507997
2015 Finger Lakes Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^
Mildly smoky, with minerally scents of lees,
this wine's flavors are as round and supple as
caramelized apples roasted in a pan. Chill it
for afternoon sipping. (400 cases)
508002

$75

2014 Eola-Amity Hills La Source Seven
Springs Vineyard Chardonnay ^ Lean and
taut when first poured, this chardonnay
seems held in suspension by a gunflint, sulfite character. With air, the reduction recedes,
revealing a tart, lemony white with savory
flavors that are assertive but not weighty,
mouthfilling but not heavy. Instead, the
wine feels focused and kinetic, more about
energy and movement than any particular
flavor. (W&S 4/17; 315 cases)

448154

94 | Ponzi

$63

2014 Willamette Valley Aurora Vineyard
Chardonnay ^ This makes the most of a warm
vintage, offering plenty of body as well as
drive. The scents of hazelnut and pear are
lavish, with caramel accents that assert them-

2015 Dundee Hills Reserve Chardonnay
(Best Buy) ^ The 2015 chardonnays from
Willamette Valley have a vibrant, pleasing
richness about them, with flavors that feel
generous and yet clean, well defined. That
describes this reserve from Stoller to a T, its
aromas all about lees and golden pear, with


http://www.bergstromwines.com/index.php http://brynmawrvineyards.orderport.net/product-details/0005/2014-Reserve-Chardonnay http://shop.foxrunvineyards.com/chardonnay-doyle-family-2016-p2.aspx http://www.ponziwines.com/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 97
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 100
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 101
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 109
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 110
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 112
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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