Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74

YEAR'S BEST RED BURGUNDY
Our blind panels tasted 308 new-release red Burgundies over the past 12 months.
Joshua Greene, our critic for Burgundy wines, rated 66 as exceptional (90+) and 26 as Best Buys.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

90 | Dom. Genot-Boulanger $75

CO TE D E N U I TS
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
223448

92 | Domaine
Amiot-Servelle

$79

2014 Chambolle-Musigny ^ This wine's
healthy fruit richness outpaces its initial
scents of smoky oak. As it takes on air, the
butterscotch notes of oak meld into a satin
texture and the wine heads in a more savory
direction, racy with acidity. It comes from a
range of parcels, including several premier
cru sites, and shows the exceptional farming
at this certified-organic domaine. § T. Edward
Wines, NY
223233

92 | Patrice Rion

$105

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les
Fuées ^ Rich in its youthful sour-cherry flavors, this is firm, tight and smoky. What's
most impressive about it is the length of flavor. As Sam Ehrlich of NYC's Blue Ribbon
acknowledged, the wine tastes like it was
made by someone brave in 2013, who took
some risks. "It offers a lot of satisfaction," he
said, "a 2013 for the long haul." § True North
Wine Merchants, Napa, CA
223602

91 | Domaine Bertagna

$103

2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les
Plantes ^ This powerful Chambolle uses the
warmth of its alcohol to completely saturate
the palate with dark red-berry flavors and
scents of roses. Its broadness is checked by
mineral acidity, suspending the wines flavors
through a long, satisfying finish. Delicious
with seared beef tenderloin and wild mushrooms. § Esprit du Vin, Syosset, NY
223663

90 | Domaine Christian
Clerget

$119

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les
Charmes ^ Supple and dynamic, this wine has
layers of flavor. The tannins have a roasted
character that stands apart from the red
fruit, adding some tension to the structure
and needing bottle age to relent. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
223204
74

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

2014 Chambolle-Musigny ^ Complex in
its black fruit and floral spice, this wine's
dark tones and heady intensity led some of
our tasters to remark that it isn't distinctly
Chambolle. That may come with time; as for
now, it's appetite inducing, especially with
the savory-sweet balance of Peking duck. §
Grand Cru Selections, NY
223605

90 | Dom. Antonin Guyon

$36

2014 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras (Best
Buy) ^ This sleek wine offers the lovely textural gentleness of Chambolle. The flavors
are not complex, but their quiet cherry and
mushroom notes are warm and satisfying. A
textural pleasure to drink now or over the
next few years with coq au vin. § Esprit du Vin,
Syosset, NY

COTE DE NUITS-VILL AGES
223858

90 | Domaine Petitot

$35

2014 Côte de Nuits-Villages Vieilles Vignes
Les Vignottes (Best Buy) ^ A delicate and fragrant wine that performs well above its appellation, this hails from 70-year-old vines in the
village of Premeaux-Prissey, near the Clos
de la Maréchale. It's pretty and round, with
fresh scents of fraises des bois, a floral, polished wine to serve with duck liver mousse. §
Bonhomie Wine Imports, South Orange, NJ
223728

88 | Frédéric Magnien

$30

2014 Côte de Nuits-Villages Coeur de
Roches (Best Buy) ^ This wine's cherryscented fruit is rustic in its peppery spice.
You could read it as mineral or volatile,
depending on your preference. It's a simple,
full-on red for boeuf bourguignon. § Massanois
Imports, Washington, DC

FLAGEY-ECHEZEAUX
218993

93 | Maison Roche
de Bellene

$330

2014 Echezeaux Grand Cru ^ Compressed
and buzzing with energy, this has the hum
of a honeybee circling for pollen. Or is it the
scent and density of flower petals seemingly

pressed into the flavor of the wine? Either
way, it's a precise and powerful Echezeaux, a
hive of flavor activity in a racy and youthful
grand cru. § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem, OR
223548

91 | Louis Jadot

$231

2014 Echezeaux Grand Cru ^ Playful power
defines this wine's delicate but lasting elegance. It starts off lean, with red fruit and
tense green spice. But it's the detail in the
tannins that require attention and then hold
it, as if you can just see the umami edge of
what this will become with age. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
224353

93 | Jean-Luc &
Eric Burguet

$75

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Symphonie ^ This
wine has everything you could want from a
simple villages Gevrey: It's muscular without
feeling pumped up, friendly in its vibrant
dark-plum fruitiness, staunch in its umami
tannins. The front of the wine is sunny and
bouncy; the finish deepened by scents of henof-the-woods mushrooms and savory game.
A brisk and lovely 2013. § Frederick Wildman
and Sons, NY
218992

93 | Maison Roche
de Bellene

$330

91 | Maison Roche
de Bellene

$142

2014 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru ^
This young wine's grandeur is elusive at first,
just heady spice and meaty black-cherry richness. Shake it up in a decanter and the spice
turns exotic while the fruit concentration
reveals a flavor of fraises des bois. Layered
and substantial, this wine's intensity seems
to be on time delay, as if the sun came out a
minute into the finish, lighting up all the flavor detail. This should begin to express itself
more fully ten years from the vintage. § Loosen
Bros. USA, Salem, OR
218981
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut
St-Jacques ^ Tense and constricted when first
poured, this wine needs a hard shake in a


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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