Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78

YEAR'S BEST RED BURGUNDY
CO TE C H A LO NN A IS E

B E A UJOL AIS NOUVE AU

MERCUREY

85 | Georges Duboeuf

220083

224253

89 | Domaine Faiveley

$30

2014 Mercurey (Best Buy) ^ This wine
emphasizes savory notes of beef bouillon,
cedar cigar box and lean, woody tannins.
Layered over that umami line of flavor,
there's some dark cherry fruit to bring complexity and floral scents. Decant this for roast
quail or other dark-meat game birds. § Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY

R U L LY
223976

88 | Domaine Vincent
Dureuil-Janthial

$37

2014 Rully (Best Buy) ^ This family domaine
consistently produces some of the best wines
in Rully. This one caught the attention of our
tasters: "The scent made me smile," said one,
and another responded, "I'm in the forest
picking wild berries." That dark fruit from
40-year-old vines makes this a big, juicy red,
built for a steak. § North Berkeley Imports,
Berkeley, CA

B OU RG O GN E
$27

2014 Bourgogne Pinot Noir ^ It's rare to
find a Bourgogne rouge with the stature of
this wine, offering delicious drinking at a
price that may well appeal to lovers of Oregon pinot noir. It's silky and well knit, with
scents of game, flavors of crunchy red fruit
and clean tannins. § Frederick Wildman and
Sons, NY
221411

88 | Maison Roche
de Bellene

$21

2014 Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes Pinot
Noir (Best Buy) ^ Firmly stating its provenance as Burgundy, this red shows depth
of character in a light, spicy wine. The fruit
is ripe and generous enough to make an
impression, even if that overall impression is
a little volatile. The tense acidity will clean up
after Charolais beef carpaccio. § Loosen Bros.
USA, Salem, OR
224031

86 | Louis Chavy

WINE & SPIRITS

B E A UJOL AIS C RU
B R O U I L LY

223024

90 | Château de Corcelles

$20

2015 Brouilly (Best Buy) ^ Tightly focused,
this wine layers notes of purple flowers over
black and red fruit over substantial tannins.
Those tannins begin to yield with air, cushioning the fruit without diminishing its floral
drive. § Seaview Imports, Port Washington, NY
223622

88 | Georges Duboeuf

$20

2016 Brouilly Château de Nervers (Best
Buy) ^ The creamy richness of this wine softens its bitter tannins, but it's the earthiness
that lasts, on notes of salt and iron. Youthfully blunt, this needs a year in bottle to harmonize. § Quintessential, Napa, CA

223883

91 | Maison L'Envoyé

$20

2015 Fleurie Château Vivier Monopole
(Best Buy) ^ This is a concentrated Fleurie from a parcel of 80-year-old bush-vine
gamay. The wine's bright purple fruit has
complex herbal intensity, like the earthy
scent of digging in a garden of thyme and
rosemary. There's a tobacco note as well, a
smoky meatiness to the tannins that would
match up with a grilled lamb chop. § Old
Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

223509

92 | Nicole Chanrion

$22

2015 Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la
Voute des Crozes (Best Buy) ^ Nicole Chanrion worked with her father before taking
over her family's domaine in 1988; she continues to farm her 16 acres of vines entirely
on her own. She grows her gamay in blue
schist and ferments it as whole clusters, ages
it in oak foudres and bottles it unfiltered. Her
2015 is concentrated, a long-lived Beaujolais
completely saturated with cool spice and
earthiness. The tannins feel fresh and taste
purple, as if layered directly into the dry fruit
flavors, leaving a briskness that lasts. § Kermit
Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

OCTOBER 2017

223776

90 | Georges Duboeuf

$20

2016 Fleurie (Best Buy) ^ Purple fruited and
rich from beginning to end, this wine has
some tension to it in peppery, floral spice.
It has the warmth, meaty and tender, that
would work well with roasted veal cheeks. §
Quintessential, Napa, CA

JULIENAS
223853

93 | Dom. Franck Besson

$15

2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
Verging on a rosé in weight with its tart
cherry flavors and slightly gruff pink-grapefruit acidity, this is a mild-mannered Bourgogne rouge for roast beef. § Saranty Imports,
Harrison, NY

78

FLEURIE

C O T E D E B R O U I L LY

224256

90 | Joseph Faiveley

$12

2016 Beaujolais Nouveau (Best Buy) ^
Grapey, lacy and simple, this is a sweet young
Beaujolais with freshness. For drinking by
the pool, or at picnics in the park. § Quintessential, Napa, CA

emerge in lean, mineral-inflected tannins.
Fragrant, with some stuffing, it's serious
enough to warrant a year or two in the cellar. § Quintessential, Napa, CA

223623

90 | Georges Duboeuf

$20

2016 Côte de Brouilly Domaine du Riaz
(Best Buy) ^ This has the clean, juicy gloss of
a Duboeuf wine, but give it time to get past
that cherry-red brightness and darker notes

$24

2014 Juliénas Le Clos du Fief ^ A selection
from the oldest vines at this domaine, coming up on 100 years, this wine ages for 12
months in neutral oak. It's youthful and
spicy, with a sense of grandeur in the ironbound tannins. The staunch, granitic structure carries the flavors for minutes after each
taste, the wine a simple beauty with cool, floral tension. This should age with grace. § Bonhomie Wine Imports, South Orange, NJ


http://www.obcwines.com/wineries/maison-lenvoye-burgundy-2/ http://www.quintessentialwines.com/Georges-Duboeuf http://www.quintessentialwines.com/Georges-Duboeuf

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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