Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80

FOCUS: BORDEAUX
FOR $30 OR LESS
Our blind panels tasted 121 new-release wines from Bordeaux for this issue. Joshua
Greene, our critic for Bordeaux, rated 6 as exceptional (90+) and 23 as Best Buys.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

While Burgundy prices soar, Bordeaux can be found for a song. And we're happy to
sing the praises of cabernets and merlots that bring clean, structured reds at $15,
and elegance at $25. The challenge is distribution. The Bordeaux that have it are
either the wildly expensive collectibles or the large-production plonk. With 6,300 registered châteaux, some selling through the Place de Bordeaux, some direct to importers, if we find a great value, the chances of your finding it as well are slim. You can go
on the internet and track it down, or you can ask a reliable retailer for a suggestion. *
We asked Mary Gorman, who is busy promoting inexpensive Bordeaux in the US, to suggest a
range of wines for $30 or less, then we presented them to our panels. She had a hit rate of 50
percent, significantly better than the 40 percent recommendation rate for the other Bordeaux
wines we tasted. With Gorman's initial vetting, and the subsequent vetting by our panels, we've
found some delicious drinking at prices you won't want to miss. * Natalie Grindstaff, of NYC's
Craft, appreciated the range of styles in this price range. "Some of the wines were really lifted,"
she said, "with brightness and aromatic qualities that were not so fruit driven or oak-centric.
Some were more heavy-handed with oak. There were people trying to show some transparency, and some older wines that showed good maturity." Here are the best we found for $30
or less.

W HITE
223377

88 | Château
Graville-Lacoste

$18

2016 Graves Blanc (Best Buy) ^ Lively and
bright, this is saturated with simple litchi and
grapefruit flavors. It's clean and fresh, ready
to chill for fruits de mer. § Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant, Berkeley, CA
223191

86 | Château Recougne

$11

2016 Bordeaux Blanc (Best Buy) ^ This is
a light, spicy blend of sauvignon blanc and
sémillon, a lean, grapey white with a sweet
bite of mint in the end. Chill it for a picnic. §
Vintus, Pleasantville, NY

RE D
RIGHT BANK
223247

91 | Château Bellevue

©2017 Silverado Vineyards, Napa, CA, USA

$19

2014 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (Best
Buy) ^ Catherine and Michel Lydoire purchased this 30-acre vineyard in 1998, the
vines planted on the clay-limestone slope

that reaches from St-Emilion to Castillon.
Their 2014 is a great bistro wine, its taut
structure carrying strawberry-red fruit and
rose scents. Bright and pretty, gracious and
firm, this is a wine to drink in the fall with
steak frites. § Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
223027

90 | Château de Barbe

$17

90 | Château Cap de
Faugères

$18

2012 Côtes de Bourg (Best Buy) ^ This vineyard dates to the 14th century, today extending over 100 acres in the Côtes de Bourg,
mostly merlot planted in chalky clay over
limestone. It's a silky wine in 2012, with
bright Bing-cherry scents and lasting notes
of pomegranates and roses. The wine has
impressive staying power, gaining firmness
and holding its freshness as it takes on air.
Decant this for roast duck with cherries. §
Seaview Imports, Port Washington, NY
224996
2014 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux (Best
Buy) ^ Silvio Denz, the owner of luxury goods
company Lalique, acquired this property
in 2005, 112 acres of vines, mostly mer-


http://www.silveradovineyards.com http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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