Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92

US NEW RELEASES
Cara Cara oranges. For all of its sunny fruit,
there's an earthen firmness that makes it feel
serious, the kind of rosé to enjoy over a meal
rather than by the pool. (240 cases)

CA LI FO RN I A RE D
BORDEAUX-VARIETY BLENDS
507303

94 | von Strasser

$135

2014 Diamond Mountain District Napa
Valley Reserve ^ Rudy von Strasser makes his
Reserve when petit verdot ripens as finely
as the cabernet sauvignon in his vineyards.
He includes 40 percent of each, making up
the balance with malbec and, in this vintage,
merlot. That high percentage of petit verdot
lends the wine its dark berry intensity and
also may contribute to the black-mushroom
richness of the tannins. This is a wine with
freshness, a factor that lengthens the flavors
and lends stature to its clean, round fruit.
Balanced and approachable as a young wine,
this is well suited to aging. (383 cases)

507736

92 | Duckhorn

$135

2013 Napa Valley The Discussion ^ "2013
was a great year to be a cabernet grape in
California," said Josh Thomas of SF's Octavia
when he tasted this wine, a blend of 61 percent cabernet sauvignon, 25 percent merlot,
the balance cabernet franc and petit verdot.
It brings a Right Bank style to Napa Valley,
with merlot making the tannins approachable, providing impressive oak integration
and richness (after 18 months in barrel, 95
percent new, it spent another six months in
neutral oak). The flavors are dark and juicy,
completely savory in their supple, fruitydark-chocolate richness. (1,830 cases)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON
450137

95 | Inglenook

507894

92 | Alta

$60

2013 Napa Valley Quatreaux ^ Fred Oliai, a
tech entrepreneur, grows ten acres of cabernet at his Alta vineyard on the eastern
slope of Atlas Peak. This is the first release
of Quatreaux, in which he blends that cabernet sauvignon (38 percent) with merlot (35
percent) from Stagecoach Vineyard, cabernet
franc from Sugarloaf Mountain and petit verdot from Greenwood in Calistoga. It shows
the potent extract of 2013 with purple fruit
and black tannins, their astringency adding
some herbal savor to the espresso notes from
oak. It's edgy with mountain tannins, warm
and savory, suited to a few years of aging and
enjoyable now if you decant it for a lean cut
of beef. (450 cases)
449861

92 | Better Half

$130

2014 Napa Valley ^ Jim Close blends this wine
from cabernet franc grown in Oakville and
cabernet sauvignon from Mt. Veeder. Silken
and rich, this is a sophisticated red that layers
supple black fruit with the toasted mustard
seed notes of oak tannins. It's big and ripe,
even as it carries itself well. (112 cases)
92

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

$210

2014 Rutherford Napa Valley Rubicon
Cabernet Sauvignon ^ The 2014 Rubicon is
part of a trajectory of change at Inglenook,
begun when Philippe Bascaules arrived in
2011 as estate director. He has worked with
viticulturist Enrique Herrera to moderate
sun exposure on the grapes and to prune
early, in December, so that the bloom and
harvest occur earlier in the season. His goal
is to avoid excess heat and to ripen the cabernet during August, as he believes early
ripening to be more efficient, allowing him
to pick fruit without the cooked flavors that
might come with longer hang time. He shortened the growing season by ten days between
2012 and 2013, and an additional three days
in 2014, selecting the most perfectly ripe
grapes for Rubicon. His 2014 may be the finest release yet under his tenure, a classical
Rutherford cabernet with sapid red fruit and
the kind of deep, umami-rich tannins that
André Tchelistcheff once described as Rutherford dust. Or maybe they're a little more
gravelly than that. Those distinctive tannins
allow the wine to feel elegant and clean while
still lending it tensile strength.
507853

95 | Inglenook

$75

2013 Rutherford Napa Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon ^ This is the wine formerly known

as Cask. In 2013, it benefited from the viticultural work Philippe Bascaules and his team
undertook to help the vines ripen their fruit
more efficiently. Presented as a selection of
the best lots that remain in the cellar after
the blending of Rubicon, it ages in a combination of French (90 percent) and American
oak, half of it new. It's a remarkably gracious
2013, elegant and bright, with crunchy cool
fruit that feels supercharged by the Rutherford tannins, a gravelly growl of energy.
Those dark tannins shade the brightness of
the fruit, even as the fruit adds tension and
verticality to their richness. If you collect
Napa Valley cabernet, this is a wine to cellar,
especially at the price.
507301

95 | von Strasser

$80

2014 Diamond Mountain District Napa
Valley Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Rudy von Strasser sold his estate vineyard in 2015, a southwest-facing slope just
east of Diamond Creek's Volcanic Hill, so this
will be the last vintage of the Estate Vineyard
cabernet. And, as if the wine could share the
wistful beauty of a swan song, my notes on
the initial taste read "coffee and chocolate
in heaven...red currant glow..." That's not to
say the wine isn't powerful and intense, but
it moderates that strength, detailing a stony
mineral flavor, with freshness to shift the
dark blueberry-skin chewiness of the tannins
toward glowing red transparency. (768 cases)

449259

94 | Laurel Glen

$75

2013 Sonoma Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon ^ This is formal, almost austere cabernet, with the same deep, black tannins that
you find in many of the great 2013s from
Napa Valley, just presented in a slightly
cooler tone. At first, there's a pretty, foresty scent and an impression of dark mineral structure dammed up behind a layer of
French oak. Give it a day of air, and its savory
flavors explode, saturating the senses with
smoky, woodsy spice that feels connected to
the rocky volcanic soil and forests of Sonoma
Mountain rather than oak barrels. It's massive yet refreshing, with floral detail in the


https://www.duckhorn.com/product/2013-duckhorn-vineyards-the-discussion-napa-valley-red-wine?pageID=8CF4442C-95C5-06A6-8BDF-D88E2E1BBCD3&sortBy=DisplayOrder&maxRows=12& http://www.altawinery.com/2013-quatreaux-bordeaux-style-blend/ https://www.laurelglen.com/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 97
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 100
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 101
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 102
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 103
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 104
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 105
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 106
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 107
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 108
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 109
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 110
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 112
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2020winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2018_winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2017winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201406
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201310
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201306
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2012winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201210
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/fall2012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201208
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201206
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com