Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93

end-a wine to keep in the cellar for at least
a decade. (1,039 cases)
507855

93 | Inglenook

$210

2013 Rutherford Napa Valley Rubicon ^
The red cherry-scented fruit of this 2013
has the darker purple notes of the vintage.
At the moment of our tasting, the wine was
dominated by the influence of its oak aging
(in French oak barrels, 75 percent new). The
site, a nook tucked into the Mayacamas
hills, is prime Rutherford benchland, offering a wine with intensity of flavor, complete
in its depths of sweet red fruit and supple,
savory tannins. Cellar this to allow the wine
to absorb its oak and reach a more nuanced
expression.
507639

92 | Chateau Montelena

$58

2014 Calistoga Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^ This was Matt Crafton's first vintage
as winemaker at Chateau Montelena, having
joined as assistant winemaker in 2008. The
wine's fruit tastes of sweet red plums, while
its scent hints at violets and roses. The tannins ground it in Calistoga, with an iron-like
note under mint, and cocoa richness. Decant
it if you open the wine now, for seared duck
breast, or hold onto it for five or six years.

92 | von Strasser

$80

2014 Diamond Mountain District Napa
Valley Diamond Terrace Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Diamond Terrace is a steep,
terraced, north-facing vineyard neighboring the vines von Strasser farms at Post. Oak
adds to the monolithic power of this wine,
burying the red fruit in layers of cocoa nibs
and coffee scents. But the fruit keeps pushing
through, highlighted in notes of cassis that
rise above the potent tannins. This is rich and
completely savory, with a gamey note that
predicts the complexity it will develop over
time. (234 cases)
507307

92 | von Strasser

$80

2014 Diamond Mountain District Napa
Valley Agira Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ^ This is from an east-facing slope, where
exposure to the cool morning sun seems to
gentle some of the mountain-grown power
of the wine without diminishing its density,
lending the tannins silkiness and allowing
the fruit to open up toward violet tones. The
richness of the oak (50 percent of the barrels
were new) covers some of the fruit distinction
for now; this wine needs time to fully reveal
its complexity. (200 cases)
507300

92 | von Strasser

$50

2014 Diamond Mountain District Napa
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^ The deep richness of oak aging comes first, though the
succulence of the wine comes through without a lot of coaxing. This is a sleek Diamond
Mountain cabernet with lasting strawberryand-plum-fruit sweetness, a bright ping of
red fruit that shows no trace of hyperripeness. Gentle and fresh, this is a cabernet that
won't overpower roast duck, and will add
depth to roast venison. (1,700 cases)
508188

92 | Far Niente

$160

2014 Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^ This wine caught our San Francisco panelists' attention, as a cabernet that
"speaks of its pedigree." Francesca Maniace,
of Commonwealth, said, "This is Oakville.
The wine is cohesive, and everything goes
where it should go." Gianpaolo Paterlini, of
Acquerello and 1760, found it "structured,
powerful and young." That youthfulness
shows up in a mouthful of tannins, a little
hard edged for now, even as the wine itself is
silky and rich enough to encompass all of its
plentiful black fruit. Bold, juicy and intense,
this will be at its best in a decade.
507305

Wine&Spirits
Our Score
Definitions
W&S scores are based on
quality and distinctive regional
character, to help you find
delicious wines grown and
made with integrity.

100
Transcendent
A wine that speaks directly from
the earth, communicating the
flavors of its place with unequaled
complexity and intensity; it will
offer pleasure for decades.

96 to 99
Astonishing, Rare
A wine that saturates the senses
with flavors that feel unique
and thrilling; a rare
landmark for its region.

93 to 95
Exciting, Distinctive
A wine that transcends simple
typicity to its region or variety-a
vivid, singular expression of place.

90 to 92
Delicious, Compelling
A compelling wine of its region;
a delicious, finessed
expression of a place.

88 to 89
Delicious, Representative
Well-made, pleasurable and
true to its region or variety.

85 to 87
Balanced, Crowd Pleasing
Identifiable in style and regional
character, and qualitatively solid.
507740

91 | Duckhorn

80 to 84
Useful

$75

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^
One taster described this as "yummy" in its
chocolate-mousse tannins; another found it
youthful and closed. That dichotomy runs
through the wine, a contrast of rich, round
textural pleasure and more seriously firm,

Simple wine that will either
quench thirst or play a
useful role at the table.

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

93


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 13
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 14
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 15
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 16
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 22
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 23
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 25
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 26
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 27
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 28
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 29
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 30
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 31
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 32
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 33
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 34
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 35
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 36
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 37
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 38
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 39
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 40
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 41
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 42
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 43
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 44
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 45
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 46
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 47
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 48
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 49
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 50
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 51
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 52
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 53
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 54
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 55
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 56
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 57
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 58
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 59
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 60
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 61
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 62
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 63
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 64
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 65
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 66
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 67
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 68
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 69
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 70
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 71
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 72
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 73
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 74
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 75
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 76
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 77
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 78
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 79
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 80
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 81
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 82
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 83
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 84
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 85
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 86
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 87
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 88
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 89
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 90
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 91
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 92
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 93
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 94
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 95
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 96
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 97
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 99
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 100
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 101
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 102
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 103
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 104
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 105
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 106
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 107
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 108
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 109
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 110
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 111
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 112
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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