Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 98

US NEW RELEASES
RED BLENDS

450324

92 | Folded Hills

507828
$38

2015 Santa Ynez Valley August Red Wine ^
If you like old-vine grenache from South Australia, check out this grenache/syrah blend;
Angela Osborne sourced it from four sites
farmed by Ruben Solorzano (which is to say,
it comes from a sort of Santa Barbara grenache dream team). It has a rich, umamiladen red-cherry flavor that hints at smoked
meat, and great textural appeal, fleshy and
fresh at once. It's an enveloping, supple wine
for roast duck. (449 cases)
507540

90 | Chalk Hill

$70

2014 Chalk Hill Estate ^ A blend of cabernet, malbec, petit verdot, merlot and syrah,
this might be inky and tannic, but it's also
pretty fresh, with a sweet anise note lifting
its dark berry fruit. It feels a bit astringent at
first, but the structure turns soft and loamy
with air-decant it for grilled pork sausages.
(5,492 cases)
508088

90 | Paraduxx

$80

2014 Napa Valley Block 5 Rector Creek
Vineyard ^ A soft blend with gentle tannins,
this is made up of cabernet franc (56 percent), zinfandel (38 percent) and cabernet
sauvignon. It's bold in its black fruit but
simple in its plummy flavors, a warm red for
slow-braised short ribs. (500 cases)

SYRAH
450077

94 | Red Car

$50

2013 Bennett Valley Vivio Vineyard Syrah ^
Carroll Kemp works almost exclusively on
the extreme coastal side of the Sonoma
Coast, but he makes an exception with this
wine, harvesting syrah from a vineyard characterized by red volcanic soil and occasional
inland warmth tempered by the coastal
influence of the Petaluma Gap. The 2013 is
mouthwatering and vivid, with a Technicolor
brilliance, bringing together a cool, clean,
minty scent with floral high tones and tarry,
volcanic spice. It's also as tight as a wire-
while you could drink it now, it will probably
be at its prime in five or six years.

98

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2017

93 | Bien Nacido Vineyards $60

2013 Santa Maria Valley Syrah ^ Trey
Fletcher makes this wine from a west-facing
hillside block planted in 1995 at California's
original cool-climate syrah site, cofermenting the syrah with a touch of viognier. It's a
wine with energy to burn, its supercharged
hibiscus and peppercorn scents becoming
more intense as it takes on air, melding with
the subtle richness of the wine's oak and its
umami-driven black-olive character. As it
expands toward warmer purple fruit tones,
it maintains a firm, stony center. Cellar it for
five years or more. (300 cases)
507954

91 | Dutton-Goldfield

$50

2014 Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch
Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah ^ Purple and
luscious when first poured, with a vanillin
scent of oak, this shows its cooler aspects
with air. It comes from a south-facing site on
the southwestern end of the Russian River
Valley, just north of the Petaluma Gap, and
feels both sunny and breezy, a delicious floral
tone lifting its plump fruit. It's a spicy, satisfying syrah for a pork chop. (607 cases)
450078

90 | Red Car

$72

2013 Fort Ross-Seaview Estate Vineyard
Syrah ^ From a warm, dry vintage, this may
lack some of the savory drive of the best
Sonoma Coast syrahs, but it's pretty delicious juice, soft and enveloping, with peppercorn spice accenting its deep purple,
plummy fruit.

Z I N FA N D E L
507958

92 | Frog's Leap

$32

2015 Napa Valley Zinfandel ^ Like any good
zin, this wine needs a lot of time in a decanter
to show its best. When first opened, it's
bright, sappy and a little bitter in its red fruit.
A few hours later, it's rounded by dark berry
flavors, the fruit racy and fresh. It's still clean
and fresh the next day, with lovely crunchy
red fruit-better, in fact, than the day before.
Frog's Leap consistently produces a classic
Napa Valley zinfandel, farming organically
and without irrigating the vines.
507637

90 | Chateau Montelena

$39

90 | Inglenook

$48

2014 Calistoga Napa Valley Zinfandel ^ An
old-school zinfandel, its color as transparent
as the thin skin of the grapes, this has the
richness of a warm-climate wine, plus supple,
dusty tannins to keep all the black-fruit flavor
in focus. There's a gamey, meaty edge to it,
some eucalyptus and sour plum notes that
add to the wine's charm. Pour it with grilled
lamb. (4,800 cases)
507854
2013 Rutherford Napa Valley Edizione
Pennino Zinfandel ^ One taster compared
this wine to Valpolicella, its formidable tartcherry flavor perked up by some dimpled
fruit (often intentional in ripasso wines). This
is dark in tone, with mineral edges to the tannins driven by the heat in the finish. Pour it
with a meaty pasta Bolognese.

NEW YORK RED
507996

88 | Lamoreaux Landing

$20

2013 Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc (Best
Buy) ^ A mildly herbal, savory red, this has
matured to quiet scents of sun-dried tomato
and black plum, with a bit of red berry fruit
peeking through as it opens. It has the acid
to work with an herbed pork loin. (590 cases)

OREGON WHITE
507877

91 | Lumos

$19

91 | Panther Creek

$20

90 | Lumos

$24

2016 Willamette Valley Rudolfo Logsdon
Ridge Vineyard Pinot Gris ^ This young gris
leads with the sourdough tang of lees in front
of a faint spritz of citrus. It's quite lean, with
a texture that's steely and mineral, and thrilling, nervy tension that should relax with a
few months in bottle. (1,082 cases)
449698
2015 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ^ There's
a broad, almost Alsatian spiciness to this
supple gris, a hint of clove, mace and allspice in the service of ripe fruit. The flavors
lean toward bruised apple, the texture correspondingly rich but with enough lift to pair
with an Alsatian pork feast. (2,520 cases)
507878
2016 Eola-Amity Hills Julia Temperance
Hill Vineyard Pinot Gris ^ A gris with two
faces, this wine leads with a bright, malic
apple scent but is dramatically richer and
broader on the palate, the flavors finishing
on a dime with a punctual phenolic grip. Give
it half a year in the bottle before chilling for
shrimp cocktail. (188 cases)


http://www.biennacidoestate.com/?project=2010-bien-nacido-syrah http://www.foldedhills.com/2015-august-red-wine/

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2017

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 12
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 17
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2017 - Cover4
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