Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 24
A Seasoning for
Champagne
by Peter Liem
On the long white table in front of me were six glasses, all containing Jacques Selosse single-vineyard Champagne from La Côte Faron, in the village of Aÿ. I was tasting these with
the estate's charismatic proprietor, Anselme Selosse, and apart from the thrill of experiencing this rare wine, this tasting had a twist: The wine in each of these glasses was identical
except that each contained, in ascending order, different quantities of dosage.
Champagne is unusual among wines in that a small
quantity of sugar (or, in the case of producers such
as Selosse, concentrated grape must) is normally
added to it just prior to release. Known as the dosage, this is one of the most misunderstood features
of Champagne, and its primary purpose is commonly
considered to be adjusting the sweetness of the wine
to align with the winemaker's personal preference or
the preferences of his or her clients. In fact, dosage is
much more complex than this, playing a critical role
in a Champagne's harmony and expression.
At this tasting, the first of the glasses contained no
dosage at all, and despite its richness on the palate, it
felt straitjacketed and austere, its flavors short, mute
on the finish. It was astounding how much the wine
changed with just a minute amount of dosage: The
second glass contained the equivalent of 0.67 grams
of sugar per liter, and while this might sound like an
insignificant quantity, it perceptibly expanded the
wine's flavors, increasing their length and complexity and smoothing the wine's edges.
24
WINE & SPIRITS
DECEMBER 2017
"Côte Faron always feels a little burnt, a little dried
on the palate," noted Selosse, "and my task in dosing the wine is to balance this sécheresse, this drying
effect."
In the third glass, which doubled the level of sugar
to 1.33 grams per liter, the wine became noticeably
richer in texture, yet the striking thing about the
wine's balance here was not only the intensity and
complexity of fruit flavor, but the increased complexity and expression of minerality as well. That vivid
clarity and energy was lost in the final three glasses,
where the sugar seemed to fight the other elements
in the wine.
In the larger context of Champagne, these levels of
dosage were exceptionally low, as Brut Champagne
can contain up to 12 grams of sugar per liter, including the dosage and whatever leftover sugar remains
after fermentation, which is normally less than a
gram or two. Yet this tasting demonstrated how even
small adjustments in dosage can have surprisingly
pronounced effects.
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 8
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 9
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 10
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 11
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 12
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 18
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 19
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Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 24
Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 25
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