Wine&S & pirits 28 contents december 2017 volume 36 number 8 features Illustration by Rik Olson 20 Oyster Options Few foods reflect the diverse places where they grow as distinctly as oysters-so why do we tend to pair them with only Sancerre and Muscadet? The W&S team unearths a range of drink options for a wide range of oysters and tastes. 28 34 Wildfire Ecology David Darlington looks at the forces contributing to the most destructive wildfires in California's history. 24 Alto Piemonte In the 19th century, vineyards blanketed the high hills of northern Piedmont, their wines more prized than Barolo and Barbaresco to the south. Stephanie Johnson reports on a renaissance in Alto Piemonte with its fresh, brisk nebbiolo. Dosage in Champagne Dosage isn't all about sweetness, says Peter Liem. It's more akin to the salt used in cooking, a seasoning that enhances the balance and flavors of a Champagne. 34 WINE & SPIRITS DECEMBER 2017 5