Wine & Spirits - December 2017 - 68

224974
in-law's 14.8-acre plot in Serralunga d'Alba's
Castelletto cru. The wine rested for two years
in barriques (40 percent new), picking up
notes of baking spices that warm and enrich
the dark plum and cherry flavors. It feels ripe
and dense, with muscular tannins that need
a few years in the cellar to soften. § T. Edward
Wines, NY
225893

92 | Mauro Veglio

$75

2013 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata ^
Ample notes of anise, cardamom and mocha
picked up during two years in barriques (60
percent new) signal an ambitious wine. Yet
the dark cherry fruit feels vibrant beneath
those oak scents, the acidity holding the flavors in lively tension. Give this a few years in
the cellar before pouring with braised lamb
shanks. § T. Edward Wines, NY
225747

91 | Enzo Boglietti

$85

2010 Barolo Case Nere ^ Boglietti's 2010 from
Case Nere, a cru in La Morra, is brimming
with notes of soy, umami and spice, lending
a teriyaki sweetness to its lush red-cherry
and plum flavors. Notes of truffle emerge
over time, taking the flavors in a more typical Barolo direction, guided by powerful
tannins and enough juicy acidity to keep
the flavors lifted. It's a rich and robust style
that's ready for braised short ribs. § Elixir Wine
Group, Bend, OR
225599

91 | Damilano

$79

2013 Barolo Cerequio ^ Notes of leafy
tobacco and fresh mushroom lend an earthiness to this wine's red-berry flavors. With air,
the wine gains vibrancy, picking up notes of
menthol and green peppercorn that spice up
the finish. § Vias Imports, NY

91 | Oddero

$69

91 | Mauro Veglio

$35

91 | Mauro Veglio

$60

90 | Enzo Boglietti

$55

90 | Ceretto

$60

90 | Cascina Chicco

$75

2013 Barolo Villero ^ Initially reticent, this
wine opens with notes of dried leaves and
white mushrooms, the flavors gripped by
rigid, ferrous tannins. After a few hours in
the glass, flavors of dark cherry and plum
emerge, gathering notes of fresh menthol
and subtle spice. It feels coiled and tense,
needing a good five years of cellaring to
unfurl. § Soilair Selection, NY
225889
2013 Barolo (Best Buy) ^ Veglio's entry-level
bottling offers a fresh introduction to Barolo
in its floral scents and summery cherry flavors tinged with notes of fennel and bitter
orange. The chewy tannins firm up the finish, giving the wine a fleshy feel. § T. Edward
Wines, NY
225891
2013 Barolo Gattera ^ This wine feels ripe
and round, its plummy fruit flavors layered
with sottobosco notes of dried leaves and wet
bark. Two years of aging in French oak barriques (40 percent new) imparted a luxurious
texture along with notes of melted chocolate
and sweet spice, with a wash of juicy acidity
to brighten the finish. § T. Edward Wines, NY
225745
2013 Barolo Boiolo ^ A modern Barolo, this is
dense and rich, the sweet baking-spice notes
showing the influence of 30 months in barriques (30 percent new) more than the characteristic floral tones of La Morra. The soft
raspberry and baked-cherry flavors make it
approachable now, if decanted with steak. §
Elixir Wine Group, Bend, OR
224671
2013 Barolo ^ A blend of fruit from Barolo
and Serralunga d'Alba, this wine rested for
30 months in a mix of 300-liter barrels and
2,500-liter casks, developing smoky and
savory notes that complement its bright red
fruit. It feels polished and smooth, the flavors brightened by hints of fresh herbs and
subtle spices. § Leonardo Locascio Selections/
The Winebow Group, NY
224682

225495

91 | Marcarini

$70

2013 Barolo Brunate ^ This wine's autumnal
notes of dried leaves and fresh mushroom
accent its spicy, tobacco-scented side while
firm tannins stand in the way of the fruit. Yet
the wine feels poised and elegant, wanting
only time in the cellar to let the fruit emerge. §
Empson USA, Alexandria, VA

2013 Barolo Rocche di Castelletto ^ This
Roero-based producer makes two Barolos
from the clay-rich soils of Serralunga d'Alba,
including this one from the Castelletto cru.
The wine stays on the skins for 45 days, developing powerful, meaty tannins that begin to
unwind after a few hours in the glass, revealing flavors of dark plum and black raspberry
layered with licorice and roasted fennel. Jan-
http://www.palmbay.com/producers/Sella-Mosca http://www.empsonusa.com/Winery.php?prod=21
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2017
