Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 102
BEST SYRAH BLEND
447896
95 | Cobb
$75
2014 Sonoma Coast Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ I wasn't sure "infusive" was
an actual word when I wrote it down after
tasting this astonishing pinot noir made by
Ross Cobb. In fact, it is a word: "Having the
power or quality of infusion," according to
my musty old two-volume Webster's. This
comes from a foggy, shady site planted on
sandy Goldridge soil, not far from Sebastopol-and the wine does seem to infuse the
senses with an aromatic fog that you can
almost walk around in, noting a spray of juniper, a lattice full of roses, the cool moisture of
the soil. There's a tightness to the structure
that will reward aging, but the impression
is one of inner strength rather than weight.
(W&S 4/17; 310 cases)
450177
95 | Radio-Coteau
$68
2014 Sonoma Coast Terra Neuma Pinot
Noir ^ If you're familiar with the wild, woodsy
scent of Sonoma Coast syrah, check out this
pinot noir. There's a rawness to it that's irresistibly compelling-piney, almost abrasive
tannins, a feral scent of tanned leather and
a more lifted violet scent. The fruit comes
from a biodynamically farmed site on the
cool southern edge of the Freestone-Occidental hills. In a warm year like 2014, those
vines seemed to draw energy from the cooling wind and fog of the nearby Petaluma
Gap, the fruit accumulating a dynamic pungency that transforms the wine into something completely delicious as it takes on
air. The tannins soften, the layers of flavor
become harmonious and supple. Eric Sussman's hands-off winemaking-no additions
other than sulfur-contribute to this wine's
sense of individuality; it feels more about site
than generic "pinot noir" typicity, and will
be a fascinating wine to watch over the next
decade. (W&S 8/17; 300 cases)
©2017 Silverado Vineyards, Napa, CA, USA
449744
95 | The Withers
$42
2014 El Dorado Mr. Burgess ^ "It tastes like
a forest," said Publisher Josh Greene. He
meant it as the highest of compliments. "You
want to drink that when you smell it," agreed
Peter Steiner of Sens in San Francisco. "It's
really refreshing." The wine smells like dry
pine needles and leaf litter on a warm summer day, but also like fresh strawberries and
roses. It's powerful, and some of that power
comes from alcohol warmth, while some
comes from the tightness of the wine's structure. (Greene called the tannins "craggy.")
It's a regal, elegant form of power, especially
two days after the wine is opened-layered,
bright, ample and umami-rich. David Low,
one of the three partners in Anthill Farms,
makes the wine for Andrew Tow's project, basing this blend on syrah (with some
mourvedre and grenache); it grows at three
vineyards with volcanic soils in northern El
Dorado County, as well as the sandy decomposed granite of the Skinner estate in Fair
Play. This feels like a wine that will age well.
If you open it now, let it sit in a decanter all
afternoon, and then grill some lamb chops.
(W&S 8/17)
B E S T Z I N FA N D E L
447145
95 | Joseph Jewell
$39
2013 Dry Creek Valley Grist Vineyard
Zinfandel ^ For the third year in a row,
Adrian Manspeaker and Micah Wirth's zin
from Grist Vineyard is a spellbinding wine.
Planted in 1974, this hillside vineyard isn't
old in the context of California zin, but the
vines are mature enough to translate the
site's iron-rich volcanic soil into zinfandel
with remarkable purity and sheer exuberance. Its red plum and floral white peach
flavors are so immediate and succulent, you
might worry that the wine is going to drip
down your chin. There's a lacy transparency
here that's extraordinary, the tannins structuring the wine without dominating it, somewhere between peach fuzz and fine gravel.
http://www.silveradovineyards.com
http://www.cobbwines.com/wines/cobb-pinot-noir-emmaline-ann-vineyard-2014-1500ml
http://www.thewitherswinery.com/
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover4
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