Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 22
Raffaele Moccia
GREECE
Venetsanos
ITALY
Agnanum
Ioanna Vamvakouri has made wine on Santorini since 2000, first at
Santo Wines, then Boutari. She started her own project in 2014, renovating Venetsanos, the island's oldest commercial winery, in time
for the 2015 harvest. She's taken just a corner of it to vinify her own
wines, working with fruit from the Venetsanos family's vineyards.
Both of her 2015s, a Santorini and a Nykteri, are elegant yet markedly stony, salty and firm-the sort of balance and power that brings
to mind great Chablis. (Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY)
Raffaele Moccia owns 25 acres of terraced vineyards in the crater of
an ancient volcano, just on the edge of Naples. He grows falanghina
and piedirosso vines that range from 60 to 200 years old-still on their
own roots, protected from phylloxera by the sandy soil. Their fruit has
an almost chewy density, whether in the peachy intensity of the 2015
Campi Flegrei Falanghina or the dark berry flavors of the 2015 Per'e
Palumm, Moccia's piedirosso. In all his wines, the volcanic soils leave
their mark in smoky mineral firmness. (Louis/Dressner Selections, NY)
Iain Reynolds Richardson
PORTUGAL
Herdade do Mouchão
SPAIN
Familia Nin Ortiz
John Reynolds purchased this quinta in 1892, building an adobe winery
on site in 1901. Mouchão developed a reputation for long-lived reds
prior to the 1974 revolution, which rocked the vineyard during some
unsettled times. The family replanted their coveted alicante bouschet
vines, which are gaining maturity and beginning to deliver the kind
of wine that once built a cult around Mouchão. Iain Reynolds Richardson's wines from the 2011 vintage may mark a new milestone for
this historic property. Now that the wines are finally available in the
US, cellar some and check on it 20 years from the vintage. (Wine InMotion USA, Union, NJ)
Viticulturists Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz partnered in life and work,
building this winery in 2012 on the outskirts of Porrera, one of the
coolest and highest areas of Priorat. To get an idea of what makes
their wines so exciting, try Nit de Nin Mas d'En Caçador. From an
altitude of more than 2,100 feet, this blend of old-vine garnacha and
cariñena grows on a cool north-facing slope. It's deliciously fresh as
it mingles bright fruit with elegant, schist-inflected tannins. (Eric
Solomon Selections/European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)
22
WINE & SPIRITS
BUYING GUIDE 2018
photo of Raffaele Moccia by vinonostrum
Carles Ortiz and Ester Nin
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017
Contents
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 1
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Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - 4
Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - Winter 2017 - Cover3
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