Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 28
New Wave
Cabernet
50 Years on the Indian Ocean Coast
People wear fewer clothes in a beach town.
Margaret River is a place where T-shirts and board
shorts rule. The cabernets of this surf culture share the
same aesthetic: dressed down, physically pragmatic,
their beauty tied to motion, equilibrium and grace.
What does motion have to do with wine? You might think of it as
kinetic energy plus direction, two concepts that don't often enter
discussions about cabernet sauvignon. In Bordeaux, château proprietors often talk about the difference in the soil beneath their
vines, the ratios of river stones, clay or sand that distinguish their
wine's expression from their neighbors'. In Napa Valley, there's
talk of soil, fog and prodigious ripeness, along with the grain of
the oak barrels that aerates that ripe fruit to succulent grandeur.
In Margaret River, there is the wind, direct from the sea, separated from some cabernet vines by less than two miles of jarrah
forest, a coastal landscape sustained by saturating winter rains
and temperate, dry summers. Save for the winds, the competition
from invasive plants, the hungry birds and the errant kangaroos,
cows and other uninvited guests at harvest, there is no more copacetic place to grow great cabernet than Margaret River.
Bill Minchin planted the first vineyard in what is now the Margaret River region. Like most of the pioneers, he was based in
Wilyabrup, a three-hour drive south of Perth, in the northern third
of a blunt promontory of land that juts out into the Indian Ocean
on Western Australia's coast. It's 62 miles from north to south,
bisected in the middle by the Margaret River, a creek running
by Joshua Greene
28
WINE & SPIRITS
FEBRUARY 2018
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover4
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