Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 35
photo of Hühnerberg courtesy of Weingut Martin Müllen
VDP, they relegated all ten to a
catch-all category of "other." So
did the authors of a widely praised
2007 Wine Atlas of Germany-but,
by then, the omission was inexcusable: Daniel Vollenweider had
company, and ample recent proof
was in bottle that the Prussians
had been spot-on.
The Lure of a Seitental
In his early twenties, Martin Müllen left his parents' winery in
Traben and signed on at a local
Kellerei, where he soon found himself shirking orders he believed
would result in poorer wine.
One day, after keeping an eye
on his new employee for several
months, the boss sidled up to him. "Young man," he
announced to Müllen, "whatever the others request,
you just keep doing what you're doing." That jolt of
self-confidence soon carried into the 1991 founding
of Weingut Martin Müllen, with vineyards in Kröv
and Traben tendered by various family members.
Müllen was among those of his generation to harbor an unapologetically old-fashioned vision of winemaking as pursued by his grandfather. He had fond
recollections of his family's rieslings grown in a leased
parcel of Ungsberg, once considered Trarbach's signature site. Müllen, however, had his eye on the Hühnerberg ("partridge hill"), one tier higher up along
the Kautenbach. This was either incredibly prescient
or foolhardy-or, perhaps, both. Despite Ungsberg's
proximity to the cellars of Trarbach, access was chal-
lenging and its elevation dictated that, even with a
sun-drenched southern exposure, riesling took longer (and was thus less likely) to fully ripen. Hühnerberg took those same challenges to the next level.
There was one lovely stand of old Hühnerberg riesling, but its owner declined to sell. Most of the site
was either planted to something other than riesling,
unkempt, or had gone to scrub as local wine fortunes
declined throughout the first half of the 20th century. The same winter that Vollenweider bought into
Goldberg, Müllen purchased a Hühnerberg parcel
with some old remnants of riesling-possibly some
of the 8,500 vines Trarbach merchant Richard Langguth is known to have planted in 1898. "Well, it will
be a start," he thought. A few months later, "I got
a phone call at seven a.m. that left me speechless.
Martin Müllen's terraced
Hühnerberg, along the
Kautenbach valley
above Trarbach.
WINE & SPIRITS
FEBRUARY 2018
35
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 12
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 13
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 14
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 15
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 16
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 17
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 18
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 19
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 20
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 21
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 22
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 23
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 24
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 25
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 26
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 27
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 28
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 29
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 30
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 31
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 32
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 33
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 34
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 35
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 36
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 37
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 38
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 39
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 40
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 41
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 42
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 43
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 44
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 45
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 46
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 47
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 48
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 49
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 50
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 51
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 52
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 53
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 54
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 55
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 56
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 57
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 58
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 59
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 60
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 61
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 62
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 63
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 64
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 65
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 66
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 67
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 68
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 69
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 70
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 71
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 72
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 73
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 74
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 75
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 76
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 77
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 78
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 79
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 80
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 81
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 82
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 83
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 84
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 85
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 86
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 87
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - 88
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - February 2018 - Cover4
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