Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 103

YEAR'S BEST WHITE BURGUNDIES
soft to the touch, a wine Brandon Borcoman
of NYC's Charlie Bird described as having the
"glamour and compact fruit of Chassagne."
With its pale scents of orange blossoms,
ample texture and taut profile, it's dressed
to kill. Stay out of its way for five years and let
the saline minerality develop along with the
depth of fruit. Or just enjoy it now for that
beautiful texture. § Esprit du Vin, Syosset, NY
227313

92 | Domaine Marc
Morey et Fils

$95

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot ^ Golden fruit notes meet complex scents
of cheese rind in this opulent Chassagne. For
all its leesy richness, there's plenty of structure to lift it, almost tannic in its radish-like
bitterness, ready to take the place of a red
wine with venison or lamb. § Banville Wine
Merchants, NY
228266

92 | Fernand &
Laurent Pillot

$85

91 | Chartron et Trebuchet

$96

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Champgains ^ The relatively young vines in
this parcel (planted in 2002) produced a rich
Chassagne in 2015, transforming the perfume of oak into the scent of honeycomb,
while the fruit itself is savory and lasting. It's
concentrated and integrated, with satisfying
density and a classical sense of style. § Esprit
du Vin, Syosset, NY
227507
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Grande Montagne ^ This grows at an isolated 1.25-acre vineyard at the top of the hill
in Chassagne. The site sustained the acidity
in the grapes through the heat of the 2015
season, creating a wine with the earthiness of
a carrot and the tart sweetness of white currants. The driving acidity keeps it tight and
crunchy. This should be fascinating to follow
as it ages. § Kysela Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
228515

90 | Bouchard Aîné & Fils

$93

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Cuvée Signature Les Chenevottes ^ This has
the smooth feel of stones polished in a tumbler, the wine savory and meaty, the texture
opulent. A spark of acidity brings out notes
of orange pith to balance a hint of nutty, nougat-like sweetness, all of it held with firm elasticity to the structure. § Boisset Family Estates,
St. Helena, CA
228252

90 | Domaine CoffinetDuvernay

$110

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Caillerets ^ A bold, warm vintage, this holds
clean and fresh for a wine of its breadth and

intensity. There's gentle floral tension in the
middle of the wine, then the finish is youthfully short, turning toward alcohol. Give this
some time to age, but don't forget it in the
cellar. § Esprit du Vin, Syosset, NY
227317

90 | Domaine Marc
Morey et Fils

$95

rather than overt ripeness. There's a fine textural abrasion from the oak, adding detail to
the flavors, presented as a unified whole. This
wine's complexity is hidden, but palpable,
needing a decade in the cellar to show itself
more fully. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
228249

90 | Dom. Antonin Guyon

$190

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Vergers ^ Bristling with freshness, this wine
tenses around its floral scents, hiding its fruit
behind notes of creamery butter. It's salty
and brisk, feeling complete and harmonious
if not yet expressive. Cellar this for five or six
years. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY

2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru ^
Sunny chamomile emerges from this wine's
cooler notes of tart fruit, shut within hard
edges that glint like gold leaf and polished silver. Unapproachable for now, this is designed
for slow evolution in the cellar. § Esprit du Vin,
Syosset, NY

CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET

M E U R S A U LT

93 | Louis Jadot

93 | Domaine Comtesse
de Chérisy

$100

92 | Domaine Bouchard
Père & Fils

$115

227134

$475

2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers ^
The thin soils of Chevalier, uphill from
Puligny's sector of Montrachet, often produce some of the most aristocratic and
youthfully austere grand cru wines of the
Côte d'Or. This 2015 takes Chevalier toward
fruitiness and generosity; perhaps it is freshness that ties it back to the site. Charles Puglia of Le Coucou in NYC noted how the wine
"coaxed the best out of a ripe vintage, impeccably balanced and drinking beautifully." Its
beeswax perfume yields notes of tropical citrus, orange zest and pith, along with greener,
savory notes of olives. A generous aristocrat. §
Kobrand, Purchase, NY

CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE
228365

93 | Philippe Pacalet

$462

2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru ^
Philippe Pacalet, the nephew of Marcel Lapierre, established his own label by seeking out
small parcels of vines and arranging to purchase the fruit. He owns no land himself,
but makes some compelling wines, working
without any sulfur at fermentation and without added yeasts. This Corton, from a parcel
of 60-year-old vines, is silken and rich, with
heady depths of flavor that could just as easily come from chenin as from chardonnay.
The oak seems to be moderating the richness
rather than adding to it, creating a savory,
toasty wrapping for the fruit. What's remarkable is the hidden acidity, which cleans up the
flavor and draws you back for another sip. §
Cape Classics, NY
227139

92 | Louis Jadot

$190

2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Domaine des Héritiers ^ Tight, cool and
restrained, this Corton hints at generosity

227625

2015 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte ^ A hidden treasure tucked into the hill
at the border of Puligny and Meursault, the
Blagny domaine of Comtesse de Chérisy consistently turns out some of the most elegant
wines in a pretty spiffy neighborhood. Laurent Martelet and his wife, Hélène, manage
the domaine, named for Hélène's mother,
who passed the vineyards on to them.
Genelotte is their 8.6-acre monopole, high
up the hill just across the border in Meursault, where the vines were planted between
1946 and 1955. The site produced a tense and
floral 2015, its fruit gingery and lithe, with a
red cast, like the crunchy skin of a red apple.
The structural elements are completely
integrated into the wine's flavors, so it feels
dynamic and complex, even as it retains gentleness and lovely restraint. An exciting 2015,
this is built for the long haul. § Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
227824

2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières ^
Bouchard's domaine includes 6.5 acres of
Genevrières, a premier cru at the south end
of Meursault where the east-southeast exposure contributes to the early ripening of the
fruit. This is a powerful wine that needs time
in a decanter for the flesh to completely fill
out the structure of the alcohol. At first it
feels a little light in the middle for all its claylimestone intensity and butterscotch weight.
A few hours later, its fresh white-peach flavors have enriched the earthy elements, creating brisk, cool harmonies. Ripe and full,
this should be at its best five or six years from
the vintage. § Henriot, NY
227761

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2018

103



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018

Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 7
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover4
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