Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 112
YEAR'S BEST AUSTRIAN WINES
the sweetness with their savor. Dynamic now,
it's built to last; lose a bottle in the cellar for
another five years, then decant for game
birds. § Monika Caha Selections/Frederick
Wildman and Sons, NY
RO S É
228499
92 | Gut Oggau
$61
2016 Weinland Rosé ^ Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe normally name their rosé for
the fictional Winifred, drawn on the label as
a dark-eyed, placid-looking beauty, whom
they describe as shy at first, then refreshing and charming. Her character seems to
shine through even though she's joined by
siblings both on the label and in the bottle
in 2016, a rough vintage with low yields. A
blend of blaufränkisch, zweigelt and roesler
(a dark-berried cross of zweigelt and blaufränkisch), it's initially simple and juicy, just
fresh-pressed cherry fruit with a little cola
note that matches the wine's deep rosé color.
With time, it becomes more intriguing, with
notes of sweet spice and dried herbs turning
the flavors toward a deep umami savor while
acidity keeps it lively. Open it before dinner
with some cured meats; then pour with a
main course of sausage and lentils. § Jenny &
François Selections, NY
228381
90 | Fritsch
$14
2016 Wagram Rosé vom Zweigelt (Best
Buy) ^ A brazen rosé, this is spicy and fresh,
with savory red-fruit flavors that fall somewhere between cherries and umeboshi, the
Japanese salted plums. The acidity crackles, sending off sparks in the form of herbal
notes, signaling its readiness to match herbcrusted lamb chops. § Monika Caha Selections/
Frederick Wildman and Sons, NY
228230
90 | Stift Goettweig
$21
2016 Niederösterreich Messwein Rosé ^
From its glossy pale pink hue to its sunny,
cool fruit flavors, Stift Goettweig's Messwein
rosé is regularly one of Austria's prettiest.
The 2016 is no exception: Made from oldvine pinot noir grown at 1,400 feet, it feels
cool and earthy, with just a ghosting of red
fruit behind its crunchy herbal and mineral
flavor. At 11.5 percent alcohol, it's a terrific
warm-weather refresher, to drink on its own
or with salads. § Circo Vino, Tucson, AZ
112
WINE & SPIRITS
APRIL 2018
RE D
RED BLENDS
BLAUFRANKISCH
90 | Moric
$23
90 | Christian Tschida
$40
88 | Heinrich
$16
228457
227129
90 | Esterhazy Estates
$45
2013 Leithaberg Schildten Blaufränkisch ^
While the fruit flavors are dark and ripe, this
blaufränkisch feels fresh and bright, thanks
to its zippy acidity and spice. Grown on the
limestone soils of the Leitha Mountains,
it's a cool, sunny red that can be a refresher
on a summer evening or make an elegant
companion to a venison steak. § Wein-Bauer,
Franklin Park, IL
228028
90 | Iby
$17
2015 Burgenland Classic Blaufränkisch
(Best Buy) ^ The Iby family grows only red
grapes, specializing in blaufränkisch. Their
entry-level bottling is impressively elegant
for $17, its cool notes of black and green peppercorns keeping the juicy berry fruit fresh.
The tannins are just present enough to take
on a platter of charcuterie, and not so much
that you'd mind drinking it on its own. § M.S.
Walker, Somerville, MA
228030
90 | Iby
$24
2015 Mittelburgenland Hockäcker Blaufränkisch (Best Buy) ^ This wine lives up to
Hockäcker's reputation for spicy blaufränkisch: The dark, extracted fruit is paved with
notes of cinnamon and peppercorn, emphasized by oak spice. And yet the wine has the
juicy freshness of just-picked blackberries,
a friendliness that makes it approachable
now, though it's likely to better absorb that
oak edge with time in the cellar. § M.S. Walker,
Somerville, MA
228261
90 | Wenzel
$23
2015 Burgenland From Limestone Unfiltered Blaufränkisch (Best Buy) ^ Michael
Wenzel specializes in furmint, and grows
some blaufränkish in Rust's limestone soils
as well. This one is floral and fresh, with a
maraschino-cherry brightness emerging
from the midst of its blackberry fruit, and a
seedy bitterness adding a pleasant edge. It's a
winter warmer for braised beef. § Winemonger
Imports, San Anselmo, CA
228472
2015 Burgenland Hausmarke Rot ^ Notes of
leather and graphite lace through the juicy
fruit in this blend, cinching it tight to keep it
structured. Half zweigelt, the rest blaufränkisch and pinot noir, it's fresh and spicy, the
light tannins and animal edge placing it with
grilled lamb or gamey meats. § Winemonger
Imports, San Anselmo, CA
228496
2015 Weinland Himmel Auf Erden ^ Mostly
cabernet, with 30 percent zweigelt, this presents a gentle, generous array of earth, spice,
tobacco and pepper flavors before quickly
transforming them to scent. It's brisk and
loosely woven, with a scratchy grip that will
take on white beans cooked with bacon. §
Jenny & François Selections, NY
227277
2015 Burgenland Red (Best Buy) ^ Mostly
zweigelt, with a splash each of blaufränkisch
and St. Laurent, this plays tart pomegranate
tones off of a chocolatey base. It's simple and
crowd-pleasing, a wine for a barbecue. § Craft
+ Estate/The Winebow Group, NY
Z W E I G E LT
227258
90 | Paul Achs
$20
90 | Leth
$17
90 | Umathum
$22
2015 Burgenland Zweigelt ^ This is wonderfully restrained, a brisk, juicy zweigelt
grown biodynamically in the Heideboden,
the flat, gravelly land between Gols and Lake
Neusiedl. It feels youthful and giving while
a touch of oak and fir-tree spice add depth
and complexity. § Craft + Estate/The Winebow
Group, NY
227377
$22
2015 Wagram Klassik Blauer Zweigelt
(Best Buy) ^ This needs air to get past its
reductive rubber-tire notes; then what you'll
have is the Austrian equivalent of a Beaujolais. It's juicy, lively, spicy and purple-fruited,
with just enough tobacco and bitter chocolate to give it staying power. Bring on the
burgers, steaks and fries. § Domaine Select
Wine Estates, NY
228462
2015 Burgenland Blaufränkisch (Best
Buy) ^ Grown organically and fermented with
ambient yeasts in open-topped vats, this has
a whiff of natural wine about it, notes of
pickles and violets adding a rustic cast to the
juicy cherry fruit. It's tangy and spicy, a red to
chill this summer for sausages. § Winemonger
Imports, San Anselmo, CA
2015 Burgenland Classic Zweigelt ^ Plush
and smooth, this is a ripe, extracted zweigelt,
the flavors as dark as licorice and blackberries. Notes of cedar and spice cake add to the
wine's extravagant feel, a soft, showy zweigelt that will hold its own in a steakhouse. §
Winemonger Imports, San Anselmo, CA n
88 | Rosi Schuster
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover4
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