Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 124

YEAR'S BEST LOIRE WINES
under the same philosophy as Coulée de Serrant (also recommended here). It's ripe and
saturated in 2015, with the orange notes of
skin contact and the lanolin scents of chenin.
Deep and multilayered, it starts out with
fruity mushroom tones, then slowly builds
toward a robust freshness. A white wine for
roast baby goat. § David Bowler Wines, NY
228563

91 | Domaine des Forges

$30

2015 Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines ^ This
is harvested in three passes, as the picking
team waits for the grapes to turn golden or
to develop a little botrytis. Grown on a parcel
of chenin planted in sandstone, volcanic rock
and wind-blown sand, the wine is aged on the
lees in 400-liter barrels for close to a year,
with lees stirring that adds to the wine's richness. This is broad and substantial chenin, a
warm Savennières with tangy pink-grapefruit
flavors underscoring the ripe notes of Golden
Delicious apples and honey-lemon tea. Pour
it with braised pork loin. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
228564

90 | Domaine des Forges

$22

2015 Savennières Le Moulin du Gué (Best
Buy) ^ Harvested and vinified in a parallel
method to the Roche-aux-Moines (recommended here as well), this chenin grows on
a plateau of broken shale and wind-blown
sand. The color is platinum gold, the flavors
deeper gold-yellow apple, roasted butternut squash, the pale earthiness of a buttery
potato. It's salty, stony and intriguing. § V.O.S.
Selections, NY

TOURAINE
227877

87 | Famille Bougrier

$17

2016 Touraine Pure Loire Sauvignon
Blanc (Best Buy) ^ There's nothing pungent
about this sauvignon, just clean grapefruit
flavors and lime-blossom sweetness. It's a
subtle white for anything from the raw bar. §
Saranty Imports, Stamford, CT
228399

86 | Samuel Baron

$14

2016 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (Best
Buy) ^ Bright and spicy with the green scent
of cold-pressed olives, this is an austere sauvignon with a little warm, bitter pineapple
flavor at its center. Chill it for pork rillettes. §
Verity Wine Partners, NY
227393

86 | Dom. des Mazelles

$16

2016 Touraine Thézée Sauvignon Blanc
(Best Buy) ^ Green notes of lime and carrot
tops fill this perfumed sauvignon. It's spicy,
ending with a touch of candied lime sweetness. For aperitifs with salmon rillettes. § Wineberry America, NY
124

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2018

VALLEE DE L A LOIRE
227665

88 | Bernier

$14

2016 Val de Loire Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^
This is a clean, grape-scented chardonnay,
not at all fussy. It could compete with a wellgrown Mâcon, mild and soothing, an easy
aperitif. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL

VOUVRAY
228348

95 | Dom. Vincent Carême

$40

2014 Vouvray Le Peu Monrier ^ Vincent
Carême earned organic certification for his
42-acre domaine, including the two adjacent
parcels of 50-year-old vines that provide fruit
for Le Peu Monrier. He makes this wine in
400-liter barrels, ten percent of them new,
leaving the wine to rest on the lees for ten
months after spontaneous fermentation. It's
a massive Vouvray, all about white tuffeau
soil and vertical structure, a wine that will
need years to mellow from its powerful youth
toward grandeur (it's already pretty awesome). Fresh, firm, stony and brisk, hinting
at apple skin and lemon zest, this will reward
patient cellaring. § Cape Classics, NY
227694

94 | Vigneau-Chevreau

$20

2016 Vouvray Cuvée Silex Sec (Best Buy) ^
Christophe Vigneau-Chevreau makes this
wine from parcels at his family's 69-acre
domaine, where the tuffeau and clay soils
contain broken flint. His father converted the
family's vineyards to organic farming, gaining certification in 1999; Christophe and his
brother, Stéphane, have since incorporated
biodynamic principles into their practice.
The farming paid off in this complex 2016,
a wine with a fragrance that seems to carry
all the colors of bee pollen, pastel shades of
pink, tan, purple and yellow. It's as if you
could breathe color, a layering of scents that
makes the succulent flavors of pear, bruised
apples and minerals into something ornate
and compellingly delicious. Decant it for
Cantonese roast duck. § Regal Wine Imports,
Moorestown, NJ
228351

92 | Vincent et Tania
Carême

$20

2015 Vouvray Spring ^ Carême purchases
fruit for this wine, focusing on growers he
knows personally, helping out with their
farming. He makes some of it in older 400liter casks, some in stainless steel, all spontaneously fermented. The oak component
comes across as almond flavor and hints
of leesy smoke, but doesn't intrude on the
wine's freshness. There's an intriguing note
of anise bulb and fennel along with a cool

current of electricity to cut the wine's chalky
richness. Pour it with fish roasted over fennel. § Cape Classics, NY
228353

92 | Clos du Gaimont

$20

87 | Domaine de Vaufuget

$15

2016 Vouvray ^ This grows at a parcel within
the Clos de Nouys; the wine aged for several
months in three-year-old casks from Cognac.
This wine's acidity may feel steely and unforgiving right now, but a day or two of air takes
it into realms of wildflower honey and spring
rain. The fruit fills out, saturating that lean
frame with notes of beeswax and lanolin.
Tuck this in your cellar and you'll be happy
to find it in ten years. § Cape Classics, NY
227597
2016 Vouvray (Best Buy) ^ A simple, grapey
chenin, this has pale apple and white-tea flavors and dusty mineral notes. Pour it with
roast chicken. § Monsieur Touton Selection, NY

ROSÉ
222999

90 | Le Roi des Pierres

$28

90 | Dom. du Pré Baron

$15

2016 Sancerre Rosé ^ Adrien Gaudiat makes
this wine as part of a new project started in
2014. It's a full-throttle rosé delivering tart
cherry flavors and lemon-pepper spice, a
bold and juicy pinot noir from chalky, clay
soils, both terres blanches and caillottes. §
(W&S 8/17) Cape Classics, NY
222197
2016 Touraine Pineau d'Aunis (Best Buy) ^
Jean-Luc Mardon pulls this wine from three
parcels of vines, the youngest around 40
years old, and the oldest double that. It's lean
and elegant, the pale berry flavors lifted by
their pink-grapefruit acidity, while chalky
minerality runs underneath. The finish is
fresh, bright and zesty. § (W&S 8/17) V.O.S.
Selections, NY

REDS
AZAY-LE-RIDEAU
227864

91 | Le Sot de L'Ange

$33

2016 Azay-le-Rideau Aziaum Jardin à la
Boulaudière Rouge ^ Quentin Bourse took
over a friend's estate in 2013 and continues
to farm the vines biodynamically (they have
been certified for ten years). This is côt grown
in two parcels of clay soils, one with silex, the
other with limestone. He ferments it in concrete, then ages it in amphorae, presenting
a wine with ornate tannins that reflect the
cold limestone and clay. Saturated and dark,
with a fragrant note that hints at peach skin,



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018

Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 6
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover4
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