Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 67
SAUVIGNON BLANC
CHENIN BLANC
Sauvignon blanc remains a favorite even as the average price for the
most popular bottlings continues to rise, now at $64 a bottle, compared to $59 last year. Consumers love their Sancerre, in particular,
sommeliers report. "Sancerre has become a wine that people call for
with the same regularity as they would their favorite brand of vodka,"
says Charles Puglia of NYC's Le Coucou. "They might not even know
the producers, but they know Sancerre is delicious because they've
had it before." In fact, eight of the 15 most popular sauvignon blanc
brands are from the region. The average price of the most popular
bottles on respondents' lists is nearly double what it was ten years
ago, and many sommeliers are leaning towards smaller, high-quality
producers.
Though chenin blanc doesn't place on respondents' top-ten lists often
enough to register as a movement, it looks like it may soon, thanks to
sauvignon blanc. "If people ask for sauvignon blanc, I generally steer
them toward chenin," says Paula de Pano of the Fearrington House
Inn, in Pittsboro, North Carolina. "It's underrated and hasn't caught
up with the pricing of Sancerre. I like to keep chenin at around $50."
MOST POPULAR CHENIN BLANCS
Rank Brand
Bottling
Avg. Price
1 François Pinon
Vouvray Silex Noir
$71
2 Domaine des Baumard
Savennières
$40
3 Dom. de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis Jacky Blot Clos de Mosny
I remember ten years ago in New York
when Sancerre came into fashion and
everyone was like, "I'll have Sancerre!"
It's interesting to see that trend is not
one that's gone out of favor at all-it's
alive and well, and I think it's an easy
go-to; people know that they like it.
-Molly Cohen, Lure Fishbar, NYC
$70
Though the numbers may not show it, sommeliers are finding that there
is an interest in riesling, as long as guests know what they're getting.
"People are into riesling, especially Beurer and Falkenstein-so
reasonably priced and so pleasurable-lovely balance," says Collin
Moody of Chicago's Income Tax Bar. "People are still afraid it will
be sweet; so it's great having trockens from Falkenstein that are so
insanely high in acidity that there's no possible way to mistake them
for sweet."
MOST POPULAR RIESLINGS
MOST POPULAR SAUVIGNON BLANCS
Rank Brand
Rank Brand
Bottling
Avg. Price
1 Domaine Vacheron
Sancerre
$87
2 Gérard Boulay
Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu
Sancerre Les Monts Damnés
3 Lucien Crochet
Sancerre La Croix du Roy
$75
4 Alphonse Mellot
Sancerre La Moussière
$80
5 Pascal Jolivet
Sancerre
$61
6 Duckhorn Vineyards
Napa Valley
$71
7 Massican
Napa Valley
$83
8 Claude Riffault
Sancerre Les Chasseignes
$66
9 Cakebread Cellars
Napa Valley
$71
10 Château de Sancerre
Sancerre
$65
Craggy Range
Martinborough Te Muna Road
$69
Franck & Jean-François
Bailly
Sancerre
$72
Yves Martin
Sancerre
$64
14 Jules Taylor
Marlborough OTQ Ryan Vineyard
$58
15 Kim Crawford
Marlborough
$36
11
$118
$86
Bottling
Avg. Price
1 Josef Leitz
Rheingau Dragonstone
2 Clemens Busch
Mosel Grosses Gewächs Marienburg Falkenlay
3 Hofgut Falkenstein
Mosel Kabinett Trocken Niedermenniger
Herrenberg
$45
4 JB Becker
Rheingau Trocken Wallufer
$66
$46
$144
Many people still find riesling
a risky order because it has
so much diversity. That's why
we've divided up the wines
into dryness categories. And
I anticipate a lot of guidance,
tasting and probably a few
bottles being sent back before
finding the 'right' riesling for a
table. But I believe it's worth it.
-Nicole Hakli,
Momofuku Ssäm Bar, NYC
WINE & SPIRITS
APRIL 2018
67
29th ANNUAL RESTAURANT POLL
RIESLING
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 12
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - Cover4
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