Wine & Spirits - April 2018 - 92

YEAR'S BEST PINOT NOIRS
scents of mace and turmeric that infuse its
black tannins. A little rooty and blunt for
now, it will benefit from another year in bottle, or decant it now for a tuna steak, seared
rare. (200 cases)

there isn't a lot of flavor detail, the elements
come together in a satisfying whole, smooth
and gracious. It may develop complexity with
age, though it is readily enjoyable now, with
roast quail or the dark meat of any roast bird.
(200 cases)
507347

448270

90 | Noble Tree

$18

2015 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot
Noir (Best Buy) ^ While many Russian River
pinot noirs are dark purple, this is light
garnet, and its lightness of touch shows in
pleasant scents of rose and sandalwood. It's
supple, almost rosé-like in its lack of overt
tannins-bright, lush and ready to drink.
(W&S 6/17; 229 cases) -L.S.
508757

90 | Pellegrini

$65

2014 Russian River Valley Olivet Lane
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This is a heavy-set Russian River Valley pinot, a muscle-bound wine
pumped up with ripe red fruit preserves. All
of that flavor comes in layers, detailed by
black-peppercorn spice in the tannins, and
by a salty, sanguine note that adds complexity to the ripe fruit. If you like elegant pinot
noir, look elsewhere, but if you enjoy cool,
sappy, richly textured reds, this one has lots
of appeal. (W&S 12/17)
510340

90 | Sarah's Vineyard

$45

90 | Siduri

$55

2015 Santa Clara Valley Pinot Noir ^ Here's
a thirst-quenching pinot noir from Gilroy,
(best known as the "garlic capital of the
world"), an estate-grown wine made without pretensions, delivering ripe red fruit, a
gentle, creamy texture and a tart, pretty finish. Ready for roast quail. (385 cases)
508165
2014 Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ A bold and sassy pinot noir
from two blocks at Garys' Vineyard, most of
this wine comes from the top of the hill (a
third of it fermented as whole bunches), the
remainder from a block at the bottom of the
hill. It's spicy, with high-toned, sweet red
fruit and a parsnip-like snap. Decant it for a
pasta salad or chicken with tabbouleh. (W&S
12/17; 583 cases)

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2018

90 | Siduri

$35

90 | Talisman

$85

2015 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ^
Sappy, plummy and bright, this captures the
warmth and concentrated purple fruit of the
Santa Lucia Highlands without overreaching.
There's a floral buzz and earthy richness at
the end, and those savory aspects feel satisfying as they play against the fruit's sunny
sweetness. (W&S 10/17; 2,121 cases) -L.S.
507871
2014 Yorkville Highlands Méthode Ancienne Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Scott Rich
has been making a Weir Vineyard pinot
since 2009, and his 2014 captures the energy
of this Mendocino County site in its fresh
red-raspberry flavors and woodsy tannins.
Rich makes it without much input, sorting
the whole clusters, then leaving them to ferment with all their stems, punching down the
cap occasionally and then racking to barrels.
The wine is a little youthfully brash-with
baking-spice redness to the flavor-but it has
plenty of stamina to mellow and gain complexity with age. (W&S 12/17; 47 cases)
509074

90 | Thomas Fogarty

511017

90 | Twomey

$50

2015 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ^
Focused on texture, the fine tannins creating an opulent nest for the sweet fruit, this
pinot has enough bright acidity to clean up
after its richness. Scents of roses and savory
notes of pumpkin seeds lend the wine dimension. Pour it with filet mignon. (4,450 cases)

$72

2014 Santa Cruz Mountains Razorback
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ The scent of this wine
is all forest and earth, with fruit in the background. That beautiful aroma introduces
a savory pinot noir, hinting at raspberries,
its tannins a little staunch and waxy, lasting
longer than the fruit. Cellar this to let those
tannins mellow, and the fragrant complexity may gain ground. (W&S 12/17; 198 cases)

450279

90 | Williams Selyem

$55

88 | Alma de Cattleya

$28

88 | Buena Vista

$25

2015 Russian River Valley Thirty-Fifth
Anniversary Pinot Noir ^ Williams Selyem's
multi-vineyard Russian River blend is in fine
form in 2015, entering on a dark-roast coffee
scent of new oak, then finding its footing in
a juicy ripe plum flavor that feels hearty and
welcoming, expanding in the end toward a
lifted scent of lavender. (W&S 10/17) -L.S.
509937
2016 Sonoma County Pinot Noir (Best
Buy) ^ Ripe red-cherry flavors meet rustic
tannins in this warm and easy pinot. Roast
beef will manage this wine's bitter edges and
bring the tannins into balance. (1,565 cases)
510694

511011

90 | Twomey

$68

2015 Anderson Valley Monument Tree
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This wine's simple fruit
lives in harmony with its dark tannins. While

2015 Carneros Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
Savory with dark notes of root vegetables,
cola and black cherries, this is a vinous pinot
noir that lasts on warmth. Tame its alcohol

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - April 2018