Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 56

YEAR'S BEST ROSÉS
scents, and pithy acidity giving it grip. It
feels grand, if a little old-fashioned, with the
structure to match a Tunisian-style couscous. §
Alain Junguenet Selection, Mountainside, NJ

PROVENCE

231584

95 | Domaines Ott

$53

2017 Côtes de Provence Château de
Selle ^ The Château de Selle sits on a limestone slope in the forested inland reaches of
Provence. The soil is nearly half rock and the
sun is intense, an imposing landscape for cultivating anything, yet this rosé is one of the
most elegant we tasted from the 2017 vintage. The concentration of the fruit comes
through in the wine's luxurious satin texture,
while the flavors remain restrained-hints of
melon, lemon and red cherry highlighting its
earthy savor. It's very pale, but don't let the
hue fool you: It's structured and mineral, a
firm rosé that wouldn't be out of place at Le
Bernardin. § Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA, Oakland, CA
230222

94 | Clos Cibonne

$35

2016 Côtes de Provence Cru Classé Cuvée
Spéciale des Vignettes Tibouren ^ Clos
Cibonne has been called the R. López de Heredia of France, growing serious rosés that age
well for a decade or more. They are based on
tibouren, a local variety that's dropped out of
favor because of its thin skins and uneven ripening. Cibonne has staked its reputation on
tibouren nonetheless, ever since the 1930s,
when then-proprietor André Roux replanted
all his mourvèdre with it. This cuvée comes
off the estate's oldest vines, growing in schist
within sight of the coast. It ages under a veil
of yeast, like Sherry, in 100-year-old foudres,
developing a pale copper hue and the scent
of a cool, shady glade. Earthy with notes of
hazelnuts, blood orange and lemon zest, as
well as mouthwatering salinity, it's the sort
of rosé that could stand up to spiced lamb
dishes, or rice-stuffed tomatoes. § De Maison
Selections, Chapel Hill, NC
230230

56

WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2018

230026

93 | Château Canadel

$38

92 | Domaine Le Galantin

$23

2016 Bandol Rosé ^ Vianney Benoist spent
four years on the winemaking team at
Domaine Tempier before joining his wife,
Laure, at her family's winery. Working 37
acres of vines under biodynamic principles,
they made their first Canadel wines in 2014.
Their 2016 rosé is stunning, echoing red Bandol in its meaty mourvèdre savor and firm
mineral tannins while imbuing the wine with
a sense of delicacy. This is a rosé that could
age, or take on spicy lamb sausages. § De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC
230558
2017 Bandol Rosé ^ A blend of 55 percent
mourvèdre with cinsault and grenache, this is
just ten percent saignée juice; the rest sees no
skin contact. This makes for a light, airy rosé,
with just a tinge of red in its color and flavor.
But it's also a serious wine, bright in acidity,
savory and herbal in its lasting flavor. For a
white-tablecloth brunch. § V.O.S. Selections, NY

90 | Figuière

$23

2017 Côtes de Provence Première Rosé ^
This has the herbal, black-currant savor of
mourvèdre (50 percent of the blend), with a
gentian-root spice. The balance is equal parts
cinsault and grenache, which add a gentle
plumpness and complexity. § Craft + Estate/
The Winebow Group, NY

f230058

90 | Mirabeau en Provence $36

2017 Côtes de Provence Etoile Rosé ^ A pale,
bright rosé, this grows at some of Provence's
higher vineyards, at 1,000 to 1,300 feet.
Mostly grenache, with 40 percent syrah, it's
dry and meaty, the rosemary scents, lemony
acidity and rich texture bringing to mind
a match with herb-roasted chicken. § Pacific
Highway Wines & Spirits, Petaluma, CA

 ^
231695

92 | Domaines Ott

$53

2017 Bandol Château Rommassan Rosé ^ 
"This feels like fine Italian cashmere," said
tasting director Sarah Sutel Looper when
she tasted this wine. A pale rosé based on
mourvedre, with small amounts of grenache and cinsault, it's reticent at first, needing time in the glass to fill in that luxurious
texture with notes of herbs and tart berries.
The pink-grapefruit acidity keeps it lifted
and long, an elegant rosé for grilled fish or a
Provence-inspired vegetable gratin.  §Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA
230223

90 | Clos Cibonne

$30

2016 Côtes de Provence Cru Classé
Tibouren ^ This looks and smells mature and
exotic, then surprises with fresh, bright citrus flavors, breezy and immediately appealing. Made from the rare tibouren and vinified in large old barrels under a veil of yeast,
the wine is full-bodied yet delicate, the flavors ranging from orange zest to maraschino
cherry, with a little salty nuttiness that suggests serving it with jambon d'Ardeche. § De
Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC

231168

90 | Unparalleled

$20

88 | Le Charmel

$13

2017 Coteaux Varois en Provence 44N5E
Rosé Cuvée ^ A heavy dose of syrah gives this
rosé its bright pink hue, as well as some girth.
Blended with grenache and a little rolle, it's
tangy and spicy, with a blood-orange acidity
and enough melon flavors to play well off the
saltiness of cured ham. § Banfi Vintners, Old
Brookville, NY
229936
2017 Côtes de Provence Rosé (Best Buy) ^ A
firm, compact rosé, this is rich in lemon and
quince flavors, just blushing toward red. The
floral, herbal notes keep it lively and delicate;
for flaky white fish baked with herbs en papillotte. § Winesellers, Niles, IL
http://www.mmdusa.net/portfolio/domaines-ott http://www.pacific-hwy.com/mirabeau-1/ http://www.mmdusa.net/portfolio/domaines-ott http://www.banfiwines.com/wine/unparalleled-rose-cuvee/
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018
