Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 62
YEAR'S BEST GREEK WINES
230299
designed for the dinner table, to serve with
a creamy salt cod dip, or something equally
rich. § Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY
231680
91 | Chatzivariti
$26
2017 Slopes of Paiko Eurynome Assyrtiko ^
Grown in the foothills of the Paiko Mountains, near Goumenissa, and vinified in neutral oak barrels, this is a fleshy assyrtiko. The
floral, peachy fruit has plenty of acidity to
keep it streamlined, and a sense of salty minerality that makes it mouthwatering. § Eklektikon, Wilmington, DE
231717
90 | Domaine Nerantzi
$20
2016 Serres Pentapolis (Best Buy) ^ A
blend of 40 percent malagousia with equal
parts assyrtiko and asprouda serron, a local
grape, this is golden in color as well as flavor.
It tastes of peaches, Meyer lemon and lime
zest, with hints of smoke and flowers, all of
it in the light grip of grape-skin tannins. Give
it some air in a decanter before pouring with
roast chicken. § Dionysi Grevenitis Selections/
DNS Wines, San Francisco, CA
230756
90 | Oenops
$18
2016 Drama Apla (Best Buy) ^ This is the first
release from Oenops, a brand launched by
Nikos Karatzas, a rising star winemaker who
made his name at Ktima Pavlidis in Drama.
A blend of malagousia, roditis and assyrtiko,
the wine balances ripe, peachy sweetness
with notes of pithy lime, stone and brine.
Sleek, silky and clean, it makes an easy bridge
from New World whites to Greece. § Athenee
Importers & Distributors, Hempstead, NY
231644
87 | Vaeni
$15
2017 Macedonia Vermion Blanc de Noir
(Best Buy) ^ A white wine from xinomavro,
this is earthy and broad, with yeasty richness
filling out the sweet, nutty pear flavors. It's
simple and meaty, a white for sliced ham. §
M.S. Walker, Somerville, MA
PELOPONNESE
231359
92 | Monemvasia
$16
2014 Peloponnese Assyrtiko (Best Buy) ^
The color is deep yellow and the initial
notes are of toast and caramel, but give this
time in the glass and it seems to get fresher
by the moment. The caramel notes begin to
smell more like warm rocks and dried herbs;
the toast lightens into notes of piecrust and
Meyer-lemon curd. You know it's assyrtiko in
the end, when the saline mineral notes and
acidity work in tandem to grip the tongue,
and won't let go. It's a white that can stand
up to lamb. § Flying Olive Farms, Raleigh, NC
62
WINE & SPIRITS
AUGUST 2018
92 | Parparoussis
$18
2017 Achaia The Gift of Dionysos Sideritis (Best Buy) ^ Made from the rare sideritis
grape, this is a strange and lovely white. It
feels almost oily, as rich as an almond-paste
cake; notes of lemon pith, quince and earth
fill in the details. Those flavors last, growing
slightly redder and juicier with air, pointing
the wine in the direction of game birds or
meaty roast fish at dinner time. § Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY
230770
91 | Domaine Spiropoulos
$22
2016 Mantinia Moschofilero ^ A complex,
nuanced moschofilero, this takes the grape's
typical floral and citrus notes in the direction
of bergamot and lemongrass. Salty minerality and tight acidity add snap to the juicy
pomelo fruit and hold the flavors long. § Athenee Importers & Distributors, Hempstead, NY
231578
90 | Bosinakis
$18
2017 Mantinia Moschofilero (Best Buy) ^
Bosinakis leaves his moschofilero on the
skins for a few hours to pick up a light blush
of color. It takes on some tannins from the
skins, too, giving the stony, floral flavors purchase on the palate despite the wine's whisper-light texture. Decant it to let the flavors
develop, and pair with seafood. § Dionysos
Imports, Manassas, VA
231142
90 | Boutari
$16
2017 Mantinia Oropedio (Best Buy) ^ Half
of this moschofilero is vinified in old oak
barrels, the rest in stainless-steel tanks. It's
a wine with grace and restraint, the variety's
floral scents met with notes of lemon oil, lime
zest and cumin spice. It feels firm and dry,
with a mineral grip that can take on fried fish. §
Terlato Wines Int'l, Lake Bluff, IL
231649
90 | Rouvalis
$14
2017 Patras Asprolithi Roditis ^ Angelos
Rouvalis pioneered the idea of making highquality wine from the widespread roditis in
the Peloponnese; today his daughter, Theodora, carries on with wines like this 2017.
Pulled from a vineyard high above the Gulf
of Patras, at 2,755 feet, it feels delicate and
breezy, with notes of rose petals and stone
fruit in a whipped-cream texture, filigreed
with saline acidity. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
231631
88 | Antonopoulos
$13
2017 Peloponnese Moschofilero (Best
Buy) ^ Scents of rosewater and lemon blossoms introduce this light, fine moschofilero.
It's lean and delicate, finishing clean. § Verity
Wine Partners, NY
231171
87 | Zacharias
$13
86 | D. Kourtakis
$13
2017 Peloponnese Assyrtiko (Best Buy) ^
This offers pink grapefruit flavor, sweet and
sharp, held tight by assyrtiko's mineral acidity. For $13, it's a terrific by-the-glass pour. §
Stellar Importing Co., Astoria, NY
229903
2016 Nemea Kouros Rhoditis (Best Buy) ^
In the crowd-pleasing Kouros style, this is
broad and welcoming, with soft, lemony
fruit. § Nestor Imports, NY
ISL AND REDS
CRETE
231284
90 | Lyrarakis
$50
90 | Rhous Winery
$25
87 | Lyrarakis
$16
2012 Crete Symbolo Grand Cuvée ^ Though
the Lyrarakis family focuses mainly on
Crete's native varieties, they've grown syrah,
the basis for this wine, since the 1990s. The
variety's violet aromas and plummy fruit
form a tight weave with the beefier notes of
merlot and cabernet sauvignon in this wine,
a concentrated red that's taken on an umami
savor with age. Firm and layered, it's deserving of a decanter and a long evening at home. §
USA Wine West, Sausalito, CA
230294
2015 Crete Skipper Kotsifali-Mandilaria ^
A blend of equal parts kotsifali and mandilaria, this is both tannic and tangy, the
dynamic between currant and cranberry fruit
and chewy, mouth-sticking texture making
it especially mouthwatering. Decant it for a
steak dinner. § Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY
231264
2016 Crete Kotsifali (Best Buy) ^ This is a
grapey, supple red, with enough smoke and
earth flavors to keep it firmly placed in Crete. §
USA Wine West, Sausalito, CA
MAINL AND REDS
CENTRAL GREECE
230758
91 | Terra Olympus
$35
2015 Rapsani Terra Petra ^ This is the first
release of Terra Olympus, a new winery in
Rapsani from young Naoussa producer Apostoles Thymiopoulos. It's a mellow, giving
wine, with flavors of cherry jam and forest
berries warmed by notes of coffee. It has the
feel of the Rapsani hillsides, the small, sunny
vineyard parcels interspersed with patches of
dark, old-growth forest. § Athenee Importers &
Distributors, Hempstead, NY
231721
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018
Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 9
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover4
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